wuzzzer
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Posts posted by wuzzzer
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Good thing she used a portable stereo and not a pair of Klipsch. She probably would have received the death penalty!
On a side note, more than a few times I've come home early or unexpectedly only to find my wife listening to music so loud I can hear it outside with all the windows closed and my system is in the basement! Funny how she won't let me listen to music as loudly as that when I'm home with her.
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I really wish I had a larger area to work with in my home for my audio setup. My main basement room is only 10 feet wide. I did have the stereo set up along the long wall for a time, but we had to sit so close to the TV and we couldn't really set up other chairs so that more than a couple of people could watch TV at the same time I decided to move everything back to the short wall.
I have 2" acoustic wedge foam on the side walls to lessen early reflections. I've always had my speakers butted right up to the walls so that they had the maximum separation between the two of them. Maybe today I'll do some experimenting with positioning and see what sounds best.
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Wrong pair, mine are in mint condition! But I saw the ones you're mentioning and they still didn't look bad.
Dave
Oh, sorry. I just saw that pair had ended for $522 and you said you got yours for $522. The high bidder on that pair was worthog2002 and your username is spacelord2002. Too many coincidences I guess. Do you have the link to the ones you won?
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Are you going to try the vacuum cleaner trick and try and suck out the dented in dust cap on the passive woofer?
I was going to mention that I paid $275 for my near mint Forte IIs, but then thought maybe I shouldn't. [
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Even though size doesn't matter, I would assume price does? [
] How much do you want to spend? Do you want to buy new or do you want to look at pre-owned? -
Congrats on the SVS. You'll love it! Just make sure you spend some good time positioning it in the room correctly and adjusting the gain and phase. Its well worth it!
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Yes, as you know, phase and sub placement can be difficult to dial in and play a huge part in audible output.
My 16-46 PC+ has some huge output in my 10x23x7 room.
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You can just make out "KG" something on the tag.
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Thanks for the replies. I understand your explanation and it makes 100% sense.
I guess from now on I'll make sure to have everything on for a bit before any demoing or listening sessions!
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The girls seem to assign the most priority to the size of the stone. Why spend money to get extreme clarity, flawlessness, perfect color, etc., that cannot be discerned by the naked eye? Why not go for the biggest stone you can afford that looks as good as a higher graded stone, but is much larger?
That's always the recommendation that I make to my customers. You have to go with looks good to you.
Occasionally I get customers (generally men) who get so hung up on needing a specific cut, color and clarity grade they won't even consider looking at one that's only slightly different in one or more of the grades. As in audio, there is also the law of dimishing returns when it comes to diamonds. At certain points within diamonds, especially with clarity, it becomes impossible to discern a difference to the naked eye. You then have to ask yourself if it is worth it to spend the extra money on a diamond that has one little speck you can see under a microscope compared to one that has 3 little specks you can see under a microscope.
By the way, this is the best Christmas season I've had so far sales-wise at work. People are definitely in a spending mood this holiday season!
{edit} On an ironic note, I'm listening to the Beatles right now and as I just hit the 'Post' button the lyric "Say you don't need no diamond rings and I'll be satisfied" just played on the CD. [
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I've done experiments with my CD player and receiver where I will leave them on for a few hours playing a CD on random/repeat so that it plays continuously. While doing that I've had my receiver on, although at somewhat low volumes. When I then do some louder listening it seems that everything sounds much warmer and smoother. Generally it seems that when I first turn on my CD player and receiver after they have been off for a long period of time and play a CD right away the sound doesn't seem as listenable at loud volumes as it does if I've had the components on and doing their job for some time.
I know that with tube setups many people will warm up their tubes before a listening session, but is the same true with solid state?
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Looking at the Ebay finished auctions, Fortes generally go for $400-700 depending on condition and type of wood.
Occasionally you can stumble on a pretty sweet deal and get a pair of near mint Forte IIs for $275 like I did. [
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For what its worth, I'll give my observations.
I have owned RF-7s for about a year. Originally they were connected to an older Sony dolby pro-logic receiver. I generally had the treble turned down a bit. Thanks to the built-in parametric equalizer I was able to adjust the sound. Unfortunately much of the dynamics of the sound was lost as a result. I then purchased a harman/kardon 2 channel amp that really made the RF-7s open up. The treble was much smoother and I ran both the treble and bass at their flat (12 o'clock) settings. Occasionally some CDs and DVDs sounded less than ideal especially at high volumes.
Then a few months ago I had the opportunity to purchase a pair of near mint Forte II speakers for $275. Since there was no way I could pass up the deal, I intended to buy them and resell them on eBay since most Forte speakers go for $400+ on there. I made the 'mistake' of doing an A/B comparison with my RF-7s as soon as I brought the Forte IIs home. The midrange from the Fortes was much more detailed and had much more impact than with the RF-7s. Having the 3 way design and the midrange horn made vocals and midrange instruments take on a life of their own.
The difficulty with RF-7s is that since their impedence drops to such low levels (down to 2.8 ohms), it takes a pretty decent amp/receiver to drive them properly. I think that the Heritage and other classic Klipsch products are somewhat more forgiving of the amplification that is driving them. Obviously they still need quality amplification for them to sound their best, but there isn't that same Holy Grail quest for finding the perfect amplification as can happen with RF-7s.
See my signature for what I decided to do with my speakers. [
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Just don't buy this stuff if you are not as comfortable with it as you are with audio gear, unless you have an inside friend in the business. They are just rocks produced naturally on the planet. They wont play vinyl or cd's, amplify, give you 1080p, or anything else that really matters. They won't make a dog look better, or a hottie look hotter. Jewels are the greatest scam in history.
Don't forget about the diamonds in the 60th anniversary Klipschorns. [
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Young Frankstein is a classic. I saw it years ago and finally bought it on DVD recently. One of the funniest movies ever made.
His talent will be missed.
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ob, dude, his wife's a jeweler. 100% markup. I'll give him 1800, cash, for it RIGHT NOW.
Sorry Clarence, the markup on Rolexes is less than 100%.
And Coytee, yes, the diamond dial is $1500 extra on a ladies Rolex Datejust.
Like I said, the price is virtually cost, plus add the factory servicing to the price that Coytee's wife paid for.
Rolexes hold their value better than any watch you can buy, except for a handful of extremely limited edition watches such as Patek Philippe. If you don't like the price, don't buy it! I'm just hear to tell you that Coytee's asking price is extremely fair.
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While shopping I would settle for no less than a VS2 and no less than an I in clarity. I wanted to get her a Princess (Meri is a Jewish American Princess therefore the princess cut) cut ring in the 1.25 to 1.5 carrat range.
We looked for months and months and I wanted to keep the price in the 15K range. We went on a cruise last Christmas and while in St. Thomas we went through the many jewelery stores there. In one store, Meri found a 1.51 carrat, D color, SI2 clarity, round brilliant diamond and fell in love. It had a GIA cert, but I was still very nervious.
GIA is one of the most reputable grading facilities in the world. You can be very comfortable with your purchase.
Just to clear things up, you mention that you wouldn't settle for less than a VS2 but you ended up buying an SI2? I think you made a good choice. My wife's diamond is a D color, SI2 clarity, AGS 0 (Ideal) cut. It looks incredible. I can only imagine that your wife's diamond is just as beautiful!
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Amy,
There are several diamond simulants that have been used over the years, cubic zirconia being only one of them. Some other ones used are white sapphire, YAG (ytrium-aluminum garnet), white spinel, white zircon. Some diamond simulants are very easy to tell from a real diamond. Some are much harder. For instance, moissanite (a lab-created gemstone) is probably the closest to diamond in its appearance. We have testers at work that separate a diamond from either moissanite or other gemstone. There isn't any way that your earrings would be moissanite since that created stone has only been on the market for a few years.
Unless they did a test with a refractometer and other gemological equipment, I don't see how they could have told you they for sure weren't cubic zirconia. It more than likely is one of the above mentioned diamond simulants.
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Excellent advice, Colin. I've worked at a high end jewelry store for just about 9 years now. This time of year you see all the ads on TV for Zales and other chain stores that sell 1 carat diamond earrings for $199, diamond bracelets for $99, etc. Its funny how people think they're going to get a quality piece of jewelry for that amount of money. Unfortunately most people don't shop for jewelry very often so they have no idea what to look for in a fine quality piece, nor do they have any idea how much jewelry (especially diamonds) can vary in their quality, beauty and price.
It is important to note that the clarity grade of a diamond is important, but there are several grades of clarity that will only affect the diamond's appearance under magnification and not as much the appearance to the naked eye. Diamonds graded from si1 and higher will only have inclusions that are visible under 10 times magnification. All diamonds that are an i1 or worse will always have at least 1 eye visible inclusion. The si2 grade is a 50/50 grade, some diamonds will and some diamonds won't have eye visible characteristics.
Color is also very important, especially with a white gold or platinum setting. Sometimes you can get away with buying a diamond that has a slight yellow or brown tint if you set it yellow gold. You won't notice the color as much since the metal its set in is yellow. In white gold or platinum it is best to go with a very white diamond (G color or better) so that the silvery color of the metal doesn't clash with any yellow in the diamond.
Most reputable jewelers will also talk about cut or light performance. This isn't the shape of the diamond, rather its the overall proportions and symmetry that the diamond has. Every diamond shape (round, princess, marquise, etc) has certain proportions that are ideal for maximum light reflection. A lot of poorer quality diamonds are cut very deep, resulting in a diamond that loses a significant amount of light out the bottom and side, reducing the amount of light reflected out the top of the diamond.
Oh, and in case anyone's wondering, Christmas time is virtually a madhouse at most jewelry stores. This week I'll be working about 70 hours, and next week will probably be 80+. So please be nice to whoever helps you out at the jewelry store you may visit. Chances are they're putting in some serious overtime as well. [
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I think I chimed in before when you posted this for sale, and I'll do it again!
This is a great deal on a very feminine, beautiful timepiece!
The price that Coytee is asking is virtually identical to dealer cost. Rolex watches have the lowest markup of any watch company that I've ever dealt with. The fact that Rolex just serviced the watch means that it would be almost impossible to tell it apart from a brand new watch. The refinishing that Rolex does to the exterior of their watches is the best I've ever seen from any watch company, and it usually costs at least $300.
The dial is actually called the White Jubilee Serti. From a distance it looks like an interesting texture on the dial, and then up close you can see the word 'Rolex' imprinted horizontally and vertically on the dial. Its definitely one of the most captivating dials that Rolex makes.
(By the way I'm the timepiece specialist at the jewelry store where I work, and we are an authorized Rolex dealer)
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Last night after work I took advantage of the extended hours at BB and picked up a 6' interconnect for my subwoofer. While I was there I wandered over to the Klipsch sound room. Everything looked very clean and organized. There was some music playing pretty low. I hit a button on the demo display to listen to some jazz music. Turned up the volume a bit. YISH, the bass sounded terrible. I noticed on the control unit that the Sub-12 was selected, so I checked the back of the sub and sure enough. The crossover was set as high as it could possibly go, and the gain on the sub was also set as high as it could go. I put both of them at the 12 o'clock position and now everything sounded much better.
I wonder if any BB employees go around regularly and check for things like that. If I didn't know anything about audio and listened to that system the way the Sub-12 was set up I would have thought twice about buying it.
Went back tonight to look at CDs with my wife and a salesperson was demoing the Klipsch system to a guy in the sound room. We were a good 100 feet away from the room and the bass was loud and tight coming from the Sub-12. It really does put out some decent bass when its set up properly!
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Questions about your order? Having problems ordering?
We welcome your questions, comments or complaints about our products or service. If you have a problem, we have a problem. Please e-mail us at promedia@klipsch.com or call the order hotline at 1-888-554-5665."
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So the 30s then are much bigger than the klf-10s? I have 10s now and the choruses are just about twice the width.
I think it might be helpful for you to go to the Klipsch speaker specification pages on here and hook up discontinued speakers and it will show you the overall dimensions and weight of every Klipsch speaker that used to be made. If a series of Klipsch speakers has a # in the model # (i.e. RF-5, RF-7, KLF-10, KLF-30) the higher the # in the model, the larger the speaker and usually the larger the drivers as well.
A KLF-30 has two 12" woofers, a HUGE midrange squawker, and a treble horn.
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] How much do you want to spend? Do you want to buy new or do you want to look at pre-owned?
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How much difference can one piece of wire make...
in General Klipsch Info
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I read words like "musicality, detail, purity, harmonic expansiveness, attack, sustain, decay, realism" and gathered that the author grabbed a book of Audiology 101 and perused the index to think of words to use.
The biggest difference one wire can make is an errant strand of copper connecting those oh so closely spaced + and - connectors.