BiggerIsBetter

I'm with rmt, if you have a good output stage in your CD/DAC that puts out at least 2 volts (assuming decent sensitivity of your amp), who needs a preamp with these speakers? You certainly need to be careful going the passive pre route. But I am a firm believe that no pre is better than the best pre in the right situation.

I would stick with one of the more mainstream tester, the links provided above identify those pretty well. If you do go to something less popular, be sure it has the tube chart, schematic and calibration procedures or that you are sure that you can get them. You should be able to get a decent example of a mainstream tester for under $200 USD.

In the general audiophile world horn are colored, period! Unless, they are expensive and cool enough looking to be accepted as "high-end' and "different" then those other "cheap" "bad" horns. Avantgarde comes to mind. "Good" enough to be speaker of the year. I would not argue that Klipsch models are better, but I would argue that they are not that much better to be put in an entirely different league.

It's so hard to talk in absolutes when comparing. I have heard both poor to great analog and digital. I would say it is harder to get good analog than digital. Remember, only the sith deal in absolutes.

If they are really friends, they would let you try them out for a week to see how they work in your room. That would give you the real answer. You just might like the corns better, in that room. You know you can fit a Khorn mid horn (i.e. 401) in those corns if you want to. After that, how much "better" are the Khorns anyway....they both still need a sub anyway.

That's perfect! I just hope that 1% chance that they are ligit is not true....or you just bought a nice looking pair of speaker [][]

I don't think it has a phono preamp. If that is the case you need a separate phono preamp and can hook it up through one of the analog bypass (or other) inputs.

I wonder if the purpose is for the sale of HIS speakers, or whether it is a scam. With zero feedback, a location in Canada and a 3 day auction, it certainly smells. Who is going to take the bullet and bid 1 meelion dollars?

A: Around 30" Q: The minimum distance your face should be while desoldering wires from a driver lug after drinking. Background: After cutting corners and not using the desoldering wick enough, applying soldering iron and pulling the wire at the same time as the wire was wrapped around the lug. No matter what angle the wire is pulled, the result is always the same, molten solder flying off with the release of the wire and hitting you in the face. If your face is closer than 30" it REALLY hurts and leaves a mark. More than 30" and it cools down enough so by the time it hits you it's just hot enough to P you off. I'm not advocating drastic measures, like not drinking while soldering, just keep you face 30" away []

Perfect, thanks for the input. I feel a lot better that they are ligit and will be around.

I place an order for several albums and my credit card was charged on 12/21. I have received no status updates, still listed as pending on the onsite status, and they did not respond to my email inquiry I sent on Monday. I send another email earlier today. This is my first order from this site. Anyone have any prior experience with them? With the 30 day limit on challenging the charge coming up I am getting concerned. I really want the albums I ordered and don't mind waiting, but I HATE getting ripped off....more than the money. Insight appreciated.

I don't think there is any question that Jeff should, or did, hear a difference. Basically, a few 1 ohm resistors have been removed from the circuit. Dean, thanks for adding the better info specific to the 2 driver, clears up some things for me. Even though both the mids and high should be boosted, I saw (measurements) and heard a much greater boost in the highs. This is in a Type B, possibly something to do with the fact that the highs were going through 2 lossy caps (i.e. add resistance) and the mid cap (loss) was before the AT. Again caviout, my input is based on results in my room (your milage will vary) and I did not use Bob's caps (which likely have different, but similar, ESR)

Seriously, if you cup your hands behind your ears there is a major change in the high frequencies. Makes you wonder what the "other' guy is hearing that may have larger or smaller ears. No wonder everyone does not agree on what sounds good.

I would definitely agree with the give a little, get a little. Since the K-77 is not very extended, at least in my room, by replacing caps (and greatly reducing the loss in the case of older caps) you are to a degree offsetting the roll off which starts around 8-10K in my room. This gives you something that you were truly "missing' before, at least some decent response in the 8+K range. On the down side, you have boosted what was likely fairly flat response in the 5-8K range to the edge of "bright" (about +3-6 dB in my room after new caps). So depending on your tastes, recordings, system, and room, that "over the top" boost in the 5-8K may be annoying or bright.

Sounds like a realistic and valid test to me, one that I take as valuable input. I was poking fun at those that discredit any test unless it is double blind, etc., etc. I look forward to checking out those horns when I get around to building a new pair of speakers.

You are getting more power out of the 16 ohm taps, that may account for some of the changes, but you should also be getting more distortion....but as an SET guy I suspect you are already used to that [] There was a good thread in the last few days that disucss the technical aspect in a lot of detail....summary I got was the 4 ohm taps should sound "best" for the Klipsch heritage speakers. I have Push Pull "monster" tubes amps(AR VT-150 monoblocks), I think I will try the 16 and 4 again....I have been using 8.

Glad to hear that you did not get overly bright. With as much loss in the old caps as you had, it is a testament to Bob's caps that you hear the positive aspects (detail, air) of more tweeter energy and not the negative ones (annoying bright). I may need to try some of those caps on the path to different crossover designs. I was not as impressed with recapping my stock designs with the Daytons or Jantzens. My room may have already been on the edge of bright , and those caps surely pushed it over the edge. Now it's L-pads, different caps, or different design....

But did you perform the test twice, was your wife blind, and did you have an A/B switch on your back... [] I WILL have some of those fancy things when I get around to building something Epic....after I complete the "best" heritage Klipsch speaker (short of the Khorn for now) for my speaker museum

"Please clarify if you would - the circuit calls out a 39uF on the woofer circuit, not a 62uF" There is an update within the zip file on Al K's site. The values in the LP were changed due to some realization on woofer impedance. Bummer if that circuit can't be changed to a 400hz xover point. I was just going to use ratios to adjust it....

I am also looking at building those for mine, I just ran the number to get the parts yesterday. let us know what you think of the sound. Anyone like to offer the component value changes to account for the K401 horn, i.e. move the mid and low xover points to 400hz?

I did provide the number both before and after correction (the same as provided above). I had 2 points, 1 there are a lot of variables to any meaurements and, 2 to show a "realistic' set of measurements in a real environment. Not quite as rosy, especially at the top and bottom, as the sanitized version but they do sound great. I think the cat was female, so that may account a bit for the HF peaks []

I can't believe they took my idea of the "outboard" mid driver. I didn't even get a free pair. [] There are speaker costing more, with people getting a lot less.

"It happens when you replace an old network having bad caps with a more efficient design that doens't waste power and a high efficieny tweeter like the K77m with the square magnet. The tweeter level jumps way up." YES, it does. I have done it with those tweeters in the Corns and measured it, around 3-5 DB increase between 5-8K. As opposed to the L-pads are there AT tap options (I have the new AT) to tame the tweeter a bit? I really don't understand the AT, but I don't see tap options to reduce the tweeter by 1-2 DB and keep the mid the same.

The objective of nailing the backs on is to keep you out of there for awhile. []

Stock '81 Cornwalls, at listening position (14'). Glass table 3' in front of speakers with 1 bottle of beer (Sierra Nevada, IPA) and 2 CD cases on it. It was a Tues, 5% humidity, 85 degrees and there was a cat outside purring (I think the cat was black). RS Analog meter, C weighted and numbers before and after (right most) correction for meter error. 20 Not measurable 25 58 63 31.5 57 60 40 61 63.5 50 62 63.5 63 73 74.5 80 80 81.5 100 76 78 125 81 81.5 160 -79 78.5 200 80 79.5 250 79 79.5 315 76 75.5 400 77 77 500 77 76.5 630 76 76 800 78 78 1K 78 78 1.25 78 78 1.6 77 76.5 2 77 75.5 2.5 79 77.5 3.15 78 76.5 4 78 76 5 82 80 6.3 83 81 8 82 80 10 77 76 12.5 76 76.5 16 70 70 20 not measurable