Macallan
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Posts posted by Macallan
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I also have a B&K 200.2 2 channel amplifier and Channel Islands VDA-2 Dac with power supply that I will sell. $500 and $250. I purchased a new integrated and no longer need the Preamp/Amp/Dac combo.
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Unit is in great shape, has remote and original manual. Would prefer local pick up in the Charlotte / Matthews NC area.
Mark performed one repair to correct a problem with fuses blowing too easily and the unit has been flawless ever since. $1200 OBO
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I am selling a great JMA Peach II, with remote and manual. Great condition, has extra set of outputs for subwoofer
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I have for sale an excellent pair of black RF-7’s with the matching RC-7 and RSW-15. I am the original owner and they are all in excellent condition. In addition to the speakers I will also sell the custom made media console that was made to perfectly fit the RC-7. The console was custom made and was modeled after a Standout Designs model.
I also have a 200.2 B&K amplifier that I would be willing to sell.
Total cost was $4,800 for the speakers + $2,000 for the cabinet + $800 for the amplifier.
I would be willing to sell the speaker set for $2K, the cabinet for $500 and the amp for $500 but I will entertain any serious offer. I do have original boxes for the RF-7s however I would prefer local pick up as the boxes are old and they are very heavy.
Located in the Charlotte, NC area.
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I contacted Mark at Juicy Music about a wood case for my Juicy Peach II unit and he mentioned that someone on the forum makes these. Please let me know any detail on this process. Thanks
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Thank you for the replies, I have removed the old fuse holder but don't feel confident in installing a new one. A better question is does Mark still service these units? I e-mailed the address on the website to request a Maxim mod but have not heard back yet. He may just be on vacation or busy but I am not sure if he still performs the repairs/mods. Anyone know?
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My Peach II has blown a fuse and i am unable to remove the screw type fuse from the unit. I opened the unit and was not able to get the screw out (it appears to be stripped) The screw receptacle on the outside of the unit broke off and I do not know how to remove. Is this a simple repair? Does anyone know how to remove the entire fuse receptacle and replace it?
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I replaced the rectifier tube and the fuse and it continues to blow.
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Thank you.
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Thanks. So i need a 1 amp fast blow fuse. Should i replace the rectifier tube as well or just the fuse to start?
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I check Radio Shack on line and they sell them, however they sell lots of variety. Slow burn, fast acting or ceramic and thermal? The Fuse inside the peach has the following on it 312 on one end, 1A/250vp on the other. It looks most like the fast acting fuses on the site but they are all listed by amps. How many Amps? Does the 312 mean anything?
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Thanks. Should I replace just the fuse or the tubes as well, they are a few years old? Where do I buy fuses?
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Won't power on. Fuse is blown. Should I just replace the fuse? What would cause a blown fuse?
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I would be interested in the result. I liked the 803 diamond better than the Wilsons. But it was a different room and way different music.
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Old post but still relevant. I have been looking at potential replacements for my rf-7s to try something new but am finding that nothing is sounding as good. I was shocked to find even Wilsons powered by Audion research were very similar. These audio stores crank the spl to give the illusion of superior sound but I went home and cranked the same track on my peach rf-7 combo and it sounded just as clean. I honestly don't get what Wilson brings to the table for 16k
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Anyone? I have read severl positive reviews on the Essence and dynamics and tone seem to be their strong suit. I feel that the RF-7s are great in dynamics but lack in tone density. Anyone familiar with the RF-7 heard the Essence?
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No but the problem does not happen without the Peach. The Rotel directly to the B&K causes no thud. The problem seems obvious to me, the delay is 45 seconds but the Peach takes more like 90 seconds to stabilize.
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why lowest power? I was thinking either the D-100 or D-200. Would lower be better or would the more powerful just be unneccesary.
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I have tried different settings on the ground switch but the other positions are noisy. And no, i do not get any buzz or hum.
Keeping the amp off while the Peach stabalizes is the easy fix but my sub still gets the signal and goes thud. The fix is just waiting for a longer period of time before engaging the Hi or Lo mode.
What is odd is that I can hear the moment when the 45 second delay has elapsed and the thud will still happen up to a minute later. I have noticed that the longer i wait the less pronounced the thud. I just never know exactly how long to wait. I could always turn off the sub and the amp but I usually just wait a few minutes then engage the Peach.
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interesting. I have thought about the Channel Island monoblocks because they have great reviews and thave the 100K input impedance that would match well with my Peach in Hi mode. Channel island uses hypex
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I have been turning my amp off to avoid the pop but i still get the same thud through the subwoofer. I know i could keep the sub off as well but that is too much trouble.
It appears that the 45 second delay is just not long enough. I can power up the Peach in HT mode and wait a few minutes before I switch to Hi/Lo and everything is fine. It is when i turn on the Peach directly in Hi/Lo mode that i have the problem or if I power up in HT mode and switch too soon. I can hear the faint ping when the 45 seconds have elapsed but i need to wait a few more minutes to avoid the pop.
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I am using RF-7s with a B&K 200.2 amplifier, my reciever is a Rotel. When i shipped the Peach back for repair my wife commented that it sounded less full and was not as far out into the room. She quickly said that she did not care either way but she could hear the difference. I said that people pay a lot of money for that 3D effect.
Juicy Music Peach II for sale
in Garage Sale
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