Malcolm

Bronze is nice, too. Lost wax from the same mold?

Very nice! Silicone mold?

To quote PWK: "Bullshit!"

Well, if the diaphragm itself is OK, you could always get a custom wound voice coil for it.

No TV accepts an HDMI signal at 1080p/120 or 1080p/240. The 120 and 240 numbers mentioned are the screen refresh rates and have nothing to do with the HDMI frame rate.

Looks like they were manufactured by Eminence in 1976.

A good sub does wonders...

I think the most significant improvement in Heresy woofers over the years has been increased xmax. The latest ones can go a little lower, and are a little more efficient, but they can play low frequencies louder before reaching their mechanical limits than the earlier ones. FWIW I haven't seen the old oil filled capacitors dry out unless the seal failed. And I haven't seen many of those, either Aerovox or any of the other brands they used. But they do seem to have high ESR which would be a good reason to replace them. Also, I haven't seen problems with the baskets sagging, but the spiders and surrounds can take a set if that is what you meant.

I have never seen an adhesion problem with pressure sensitive veener properly applied. I have seen bubbles resulting from poor application technique. Pretty much like veneering with contact cement.

The problem is not the tweeter. Folks have been replacing the K77 with the CT125. Some like it. Some don't. But it really isn't the issue. The problem is the elimination of the squawker that gives all the Heritage line much of its character. A Heresy is as close as you can get to the bigger Heritage speakers down to the squawker low end crossover point of 700 Hz. There is a bit of difference due to the lower crossover point in the bigger models but not nearly the difference you will experience if your eliminate it. Eliminate the squawker and it just ain't the same thing, although it might be nice. No cone speaker is going to sound like a Heritage squawker. It is really going to depend on your ear. If you are like me, you will likely be disappointed. Currently, my system consists of Heresys all around with a subwoofer. At one time I had 1983 Heresys with the K53 squawker driver for surrounds and earlier models with the K55 squawker driver for the rest. I found the difference in timbre annoying enough when sounds panned around the room that I replaced the surrounds with earlier Heresys.

Wierd maybe...

What you have are early Heresy speakers, before the change to the K700 horn and the advent of serial numbers with year codes in them. I think you will have to check with the factory if you want to know when they were made. First Heresys came out in 1957. First serial numbers with year codes came out in 1962. Are there EIA codes like 649xxx on the woofer or tweeter? Or 795xxx on the squawker driver? If so, the first x is the last digit of the year it was made, and the next two xs are the week. That would set a lower limit on the manufacturing date unless components were upgraded some time after the speaker was produced.

Might be able to make a nice speaker with the proposed combination. But it ain't going to sound like a Heresy because it doesn't have the same squawker and tweeter, which give it its signature sound. If it doesn't sound like a Heresy, what is the point? Just buy anything.

Looks right for 1961. The EIA code 220119 does indeed mean Jensen, 19th week of 1961. Jensen woofer is right for that time frame. K1000 horn with K55V is, too. Could be a small possibilty that the cabinet is earlier and some upgraded the parts. Klipsch did sell upgrade parts. Serial number isn''t stamped into the wood somewhere?

Yep. You could build a center with two appropriate 10" woofers on either side of the tweeter and squawker. Depth would still be the same because it is limited by the squawker/ If you cannot come up with an appropriate center, if might be better to use a phantom center than a real one that isn't timber matched.

Yep, Heresey IIs and a good sub... I have Heresys all around and a sub. Makes an excellent surround system.

Strip, lightly sand, bleach if you have to, stain and refinish...

You would be better off stripping them first, sanding lightly, and then applying the finish of choice. Be aware that the veneer is quite thin. It is very easy to sand right through if you are not careful. Do not even think about using a belt sander. Hand sanding (with a block) would be best, but you can get away with a finish sander if you are careful.

Joule ratings are useless for comparing devices from different companies, and in some cases, devices from the same company. There is no standard for them. Surge current is a better measure. A reasonably sized whole-house surge protective device, say 50 kA, will typically last 20 years or more. Appliances with motors, and other things in the house, most definitely do cause surges. However, despite the hype you hear from manufacturers, most damaging surges originate outside the house. Most gear in your house is inherently protected from the kinds of surges most commonly generated inside.

Replacing the K-22 in H1s might be an improvement. Again, 3dB down point doesn't change significantly. But the added xmax will allow you to play louder before the woofer reaches its physical limit. As alluded to above, the solution for added bass for all the Heresys is a subwoofer.

I suspect that you could get away with using stripper on the black paint, or at least acetone. Oil finishes polymerize over time and are just about impossible to get out of the wood chemically. I would almost bet that the paint would come off before you do any damage to the oil finish. You might want to try on an inconspicuous spot, like the bottom.

You are not going to end up with significantly more bass. The box is the major limiting factor. 3dB down point of all the Heresys is about 60 Hz.

IMHO if you are willing to take the time to learn how to work with it, traditional unbacked veneer will give the best results.

There are places where MDF makes sense and places where it doesn't. Simple shelves are not a good use of MDF for the reason stated. Add some reinforcement along the front edge and support the back edge and it works fine.

IMHO the greatest drawback to MDF in speaker building is that it has little edge impact resistance. Drop something made of MDF on its corner and see what happens.