Malcolm

Tom brings up some good points. I just meant easy relative to the other way around. But refinishing is not a particularly difficult process, particularly with something like Watco oil finishes. Howevery, after you have removed the old finish, you are essentially starting from scratch. It would be a good idea to practice on a piece of scrap plywood of the same species before you do your speakers. Likewise, if you just want to get the shine back, it would be a lot simpler to apply one or more new coats of lacquer after sanding. If you do, you might want to find out from Klipsch what type of lacquer they used and use the same or similar. Follow the instuctions of the manufacturer. No, Tom, unfortunately I have not yet forgotten all the mistakes I have made. I do try not to make them any more. I just make different ones every time. Just like on the golf course, I have gotten very good at getting out of trouble. The good thing about refinishing is that, with the exception of sanding through the face veneer, it is all reversible.

Real easy, much easier than the other way around. Apply stripper, remove lacquer, and clean up according to manufacturer's instructions. Sand lightly with very fine paper. The either apply stain followed by oil finish according to manufactuer's instructions, or apply oil finish containing stain according to manufacturer's instructions. FWIW lacquer has advantages over oil. First, it is easy to remove. Oil finishes polymerize over time and are essentially impossible to remove completely without serious sanding. It also protects the wood from scratching better.

I bet PWK would use 18 AWG zip cord.

I hardly ever use my jigsaw anymore. I use a router for cutting circles. I made my own aluminum equivalents of some of the Jasper jigs on a CNC vertical milling center. But before that, I just removed the sub-base and attached a thin piece of 1/4" plywood with a hole in the appropriate place for the center of the circle I wanted. For tractix curves, I would use an oval cutting jig. FWIW I really like Porter-Cable tools. Plunge routers are convenient if you do a lot of plunge starts, not really necessary. I use 1/2" shank bits for the most part. variable speed is generally only important if you are using large diameter cutters. Then you have to slow down the speed for safety and quality of cut.

Actually, the mod was to the Type D network. The Type D was just a capacitor change and autotransformer change from the Type C to account for the change from a 16 ohm woofer to an 8 ohm woofer. My guess is they assumed that the change in impedance at the crossover point wouldn't adversely affect the sound, then found out later that it sounder better with the phased reversed per the Type E.

Care to quote code? What I suggested is perfectly legal according to the NEC, some version of which is the base document for most local electrical codes. It is legal where I live. No need to run a 220V circuit to another box. It is called a multiwire branch circuit. OP: Yes, you can use red for one hot, black for the other hot, and white for the neutral. You can use a two-pole breaker, or two single-pole breakers. It you use the latter, the handles have to be tied together. You can use a split receptacle or two separate receptacles. FWIW 10AWG is not overkill. Minimum gauge for a 14AWG for 15A circuit, 12AWG for 20A circuit. Sometimes due to ampacity issues, code requires use of larger wire. Even when it doesn't, using larger wire reduces voltage drop which is a good thing. I guess I should also tell you about the downside of a multiwire branch circuit. If somehow you lose the neutral connection to the utility's transformer, you can wind up with anything up to 220V across your equipment depending on how the load is split between the two circuits. It doesn't happen often, but when it does, the results can be spectacular. FWIW if I want more than one circuit, I run separate cables (hot, neutral and ground) of appropriate gauge for each circuit.

You can use the third wire to create a second circut that shares the neutral with the first circuit. Just make sure the two circuits are on different legs at the panel. You will have a lower voltage drop with the 10AWG wire than with the 12AWG wire.

Pretty! FWIW Eminence wasn't the original manufacturer of the Heresy woofer. Electrovoice and CTS preceded them in the H700s. Others were probably used in earlier ones. But Eminence does have a long history with the Heresy woofer. It actually extends back farther that the history of Eminence because the founder of Eminence worker for CTS before founding Eminence.

Well, you receive a nice set of speakers... The name Heresy came about because this was PWK's first major product that did not have a horn-loaded woofer. IIRC the story is in one of the threads on this site. The H700 name means that the crossover point between the woofer and squawker is 700 Hz. The earlier version, which indeed was designed as a center speaker for Klipschorns, crossed at 1000 Hz. It has the same tweeter and squawker driver as the Klipschorn, and sounds very much like one, except at lower frequencies. It is mass-produced. The burlap is not original. Go ahead and remove it if you wish. IIRC HDR means Heresy Decorator (no grill) Raw (no finish)

No need to change woofers. Woofers are very similar between late model Heresy (K-22-K IIRC) and Heresy II (K-24). I don't think you will hear a difference. If that is not good enough, you can put the same woofer in both with no problem. You might want to consider the replacement woofers Bob Crites is offering. No need to change squawkers. Squawker driver in late model Heresy and Heresy II are identical, K-53-K. You might find an odd K-52-H in some late Heresy, but it is the same except for the mounting. Earlier Heresy had K-55-V which to my ears sounds noticeably different when in the same system as a K-53-K. That just leaves the tweeter. Heresy has K-77, Heresy has II K-76-K. Pick the one that sounds best to you. It may take a bit of creative woodworking to get everything to fit right. Then use the same crossover network in both. IMHO it would be simpler and probably less costly to get rid of one kind and buy ones that match what you have left.

The reason I asked is that the SP12B dates from before T/S parameters were published. EV did publish T/S parameters for the SP12C which is an 8 ohm speaker with similar mechanical properties but different electrical parameters. Folks sometimes use these figures for the SP12B. But one would have to actually test the SP12 to get the real parameters. That said, I don't doubt that Qts of the new woofers is lower. I tested the SP12B and several of the following versions of the Heresy woofer at long time ago. I cannot put my hands on the results now. But I do remember that the figures were all over the place (yes I double checked my work). Just goes to show that the Heresy's sealed box design is very forgiving. Sometimes T/S parameters aren't as important as they seem. Have fun!

IIRC the inductor on the Type E is 2.5mH. Hopefully, somebody will correct me if I am wrong. But just use whatever comes with your horns and you should be OK with nothing more than maybe a cap change on the input to the autotransformer and a tap change depending on what woofer you wind up using. The Aristocrat has a different design than a Klipschorn. If you look at it in cross section, it is more like a ported system with a horn shaped port. It doesn't have a sealed compression chamber. That may have an affect on what T/S parameters are desireable. Where did you get the T/S parameters for the SP12B? FWIW E/V claimed the Aristocrat was flat to within 5dB down to 30Hz with a SP12B. You might find this useful. And this.

More like PWK used an EV woofer in the Heresy. In the very earliest, before the H700, you might even find a Stephens. If you look at the history of the components in his speakers, he just used whatever was available that would work. The Heresy had woofers from many different manufacturers over its production history. If you use the SP12B, which is a 16 ohm speaker, you may want aType C network. To convert from Type E, it would amount to changing one capacitor from 2uF to 1uF, changing some taps on the autotransformer, and reversing the phase of the woofer. The schematics are floating around the forum someplace. From there you might want to play with level of the woofer relative to the squawker and tweeter to account for any differences in output due to the different box designs, if any.

The SP12B was the Heresy woofer for many years. I don't think you will hear much difference using a later model one. SP12B might actually be a better match for the Aristocrat depending on T/S paramenters. Cross at the same frequencies as the Heresy. The deciding factors are the horns.

Early Heresys did have K1000 horns.

The taps on the Type C are different from the Type D and Type E. I would bet your Type 4 matches the Type C taps. You might want to consider when playing with the crossover that the Type 4 and Type C were used with 16 ohm woofers and the Type D and later were used with 8 ohm woofers. The E2 was on the way to the Heresy II and had modifications to deal with the change from the K55V to the K53K squawker. My guess is that your K1000 horns are original. If they aren't there should be obvious evidence of a patch to the motor board because the K1000 mouth is narrower than the K700. Have fun.

Schematic is just fine... Your Type 4 Network was followed by the Type C in the early H700s. Don't know if there was anything in between. Same capacitor values, same 2.5 mH inductor in the woofer circuit, but the other inductor deleted, same 1 uF cap on the input to the autotransformer. Don't know if the taps on the autotransformer are the same. You'll need to check against a Type C schematic. The Type C was followed by the Type D in which both caps were 2 uF and different taps were used. That was followed by the Type E which did nothing more than change the phase of the drivers relative to each other.

And what does someone who does not have the option of installing whole house protection do, say a renter?

Yes, you just need an adapter.

No need for a UPS with the possible exception of a front or rear projection set. The reason people buy a UPS in this case is so that the bulb can cool down normally. I am not entirely sold on the necessity of this. I have used rear projection equipment for years, lost power for various reasons, and never lost a bulb. One would think that it would be better to let the bulb cool down more slowly than to blow air on it to cool it down faster. This is essentially annealing, which is exactly what is done when glass is blown or cast to keep it from cracking as it cools down. If you own a house, the best thing you can do is install a whole-house surge protective device at the service entrance. You need to make sure not only the power line is protected, but also telephone, cable, antenna down lead, and any other path by which a surge can enter the building are all protected. You also need to have a good ground and a short, low impedance connection between the surge protective device and the ground. This will take care of the most damaging types of surges (lightning, power line switching transients, etc.) There are also transients generated in the house. Most of them aren't really surges, rather noise. Those that are surges tend to be with the ability of power supplies in most equipment to withstand. If you go with a plug-in unit, I will add my vote for Isobar Ultra. They have better surge protection technology than most, plus decent noise filters.

Might be better to use an inverter with true sine wave output than one with modified sine wave output. But it will be more expensive.

If the turnatable doesn't need a speed control when run on 230V/50Hz it won't need one if the pulley is changed and it is run on 120V/60Hz. There is no question about the speed being a little off because of the different power inputs. This is a sychronous motor. It will run exactly 20% faster at 60Hz than it will at 50Hz. That means the circumference, and therefore the diameter, of the pulley needs to be 16 2/3% smaller when run at 60Hz. A decent machine shop can produce a pulley to the same tolerances as the original. Anyway, I hope you find a solution that works for you. I am sure you are anxious to see how the turntable sounds.

Wow! Over a month and still no solution? FWIW the motor is what the manufacturer calls a "double synchronous" motor. Synchronous motors are AC and their speed is a function of line frequency. Power line frequency in any country with a power grid that connects generating plants is extremely stable because the plants have to stay in sync. In the USA, it is rock solid, so it is an excellent reference for a turntable, clock, etc.. I haven't heard the term "double synchronous" before this. But I have heard of doubly-fed induction motors. The key feature of such devices is that they can be sped up above the normal synchronous speed, or slowed down below it. If they are fed in phase, the motor runs at normal synchronous speed. If you simply replace the power supply with one that will work on 120V 60Hz, the motor will run exactly 20% faster than on 50Hz. That $1000 box the manufacturer wants to sell you is likely a slightly modified version of one of the speed controls listed on their site. The ones on the site are listed as being able to change the speed up to 5% or 10%. You need more, but it wouldn't be difficult to modify one of the existing models to do that and run on 120V. It works by changing the frequency of one of the feeds. I don't know if running on 60Hz will damage the motor. I suspect it will not if the fix that the manufacturer is suggesting is a speed control. As long as you don't burn the insulation with the additional heat, you will be fine, just running 20% fast. If the motor is happy with 18V 60Hz, I would just have a new pully machined and installed, and of course, get a new wall wart that will give me 18V out with 120V in.

The only way to get a good timbre match with a Forte is to use the same tweeter and squawker, You will need more than just the tweeter and squawker. You give up too much frequency response eliminating the woofer. Use the Forte crossover. Replace the Forte's woofer and passive radiator with enough smaller woofers to get approximately the same level of output. You aren't going to have the same low end frequency response, but it should be good enough. You may have to tweek the crossover to account for differences in sensitivity between the Forte's woofer and the new woofers. The parts suggested by John are good choices. FWIW if your main speakers are close enough, and the screen is more or less in the middle, adding a center may not yield an audible improvement.

Yes, the problem with the Type D network was that if you connected everything the way indicated on the plate, the woofer wound up in reversed phase from that which yielded the optimal results. Wow, I guess PWK was totally clueless for the 10 or so years the Type C network was in use...