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ClaudeJ1

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Everything posted by ClaudeJ1

  1. I started out on one of those. Reminds of the shoe phone on Get Smart.
  2. Amplifier power is not your problem. 40 watts will drive a Cornwall to ear splitting levels. Make sure your polarities are not reversed anywhere. Cornwalls have the "fattest" bass of any of the Heritage speakers.
  3. Your ears are correct. Just look at my original curves in the early posts.
  4. For Americans, this would be less than $300 US. Keep in mind that the Klipsch AA network is still in use, along with a factory original Klipsch K-33 woofer, so those are already paid for in the older LaScalas.
  5. 3 TH-50's and one OThorn............I also had a pair of DTS-10's, which rattled stuff down way the hall, which was a door to my bedroom 1/2 bath. In between I had 2 monster 18" woofers in custom BR boxes that were good too, but totally WIMPY compared to the tapped horns.
  6. Those drivers are terrific in horns or bass reflex. I used Altec woofers in some 20 cubic foot cabinets I built when I was 19 years old. The only thing I would add is you need to measure the overall DIAMETER of those woofers because as far as I can remember, they were 16 inches, so you would need to have WIDER RIP CUTS (I would go with 16 1/4 to 16 1/2") to build the Quarter Pies using that woofer. All other dimensions would be the same, so basically you would still rip the lumber the same way and end up with the bass bin a smidge taller laying down. No big deal there. It might cost you an extra sheet of plywood, but you would gain a very SLIGHT increase in efficiency from the extra volume of air in the horn. Measureable, but hardly audible.
  7. Yep. Some rare Klipsch fanatics put the LaScala II top sections in storage and purchase a pair of K-402 theater horns with 2" Pro Drivers to create an Active 2-way system. This means getting a Digital Crossover with Parametric Equalization and Time Delays to get better phase coherence. As part of the setup as recommended by Roy Delgado, Klipsch's Chief Engineer, there's a PEQ filter with a -7 db attenuation at 140 Hz. to flatten out the bass bin. What does THAT tell you?
  8. I've been trying to convince LaScala guys to do what you did instead of adding reflex ports in a box underneath because you are eXtending the horn from about 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 feet long. So building a horn underneath gives you way more benefit than porting what becomes a direct radiator instead of a full horn. BTW, there is NO LaScala +7 db PEAK at140 hz. in the Quarter Pie's flat/exended curve. Consider all that stuff GONE.
  9. I prefer the 15C for several reasons, which include the use of a SUBwoofer below 60 Hz.. For no sub, the K33 has the "fattest bass" and it's easier to PEQ the top end at 400 Hz. (no increase in IM distortion) as opposed to trying to add more bass below 50 Hz. with higher IM distortion resulting. But the best reason of all is NO reconing of old, overpriced, used EV woofers that are 30 years old, or using 40 year old K33's if they were beat to hell in a Cornwall. The 15C is the CHEAPEST driver that will do the job. If you prefer a K33, the Bob Crites woofer is a good one. No problems with brand new woofers whichever you choose!!! You can't go wrong with any of them, since it's the HORN that does most of the work!
  10. I used TH subs that are WAY more powerful than this BR Beast in a room 11.5 x 16.5 x 8. No such thing as too powerful!!
  11. It's possible they want dual rectifiers for 2 different power supplies. One of each channel, or in the case of the Mesa Boogie, maybe one for the pre amp and one for the power amp.
  12. agree totally. Being that I was a consultant to Foveon, I sold all my Hasselblads, 8x10, 4x5's etc. in 1999, when I opened a digital only studio featuring a $50,000 Foveon Prism camera and Fuji Pictrography Printer ($20,000) while my wife ran the Santa Photo biz at the mall (1997-2004) with Kodak Dye sub printers for output. Film free (two 4-letter words that start with F) since 1999!! Also I quit buying LP's as an early adopter of CD's when there were only Classical Titles available initially................circa 1983 when all you could get was a Sony Player since the inventors of the CD, Philllips did not have theirs out yet!!
  13. Got a discount code to buy it but it's NOT working and giving the 50% off.
  14. The same is true is Digital Photography, which I've been involved with as a Pioneer since 1986. In the case of RGB values in a digital file, they speak of 14-16 bit resolution of DYNAMICS, which as ANALOG value that should be expressed as D ECIBELS, so it's a misnomer to begin with. Since there are 3 colors and 256 values to the 3rd Power is 16,777,216 different colors in and 8 bit/color typical situation, now offering 16 bits per color to yield over 281 TRILLION colors which is totally ridiculous overkill, since no printer or monitor can resolve more than about 6 bits per color!!! Same is true for Kodak's Pro Photo RGB color space where no device in the world can put out such a wide color gamut. Even a 320 VBR MP3 file is hard to tell from a Redbook CD file!! I met Mark Waldrup about 5 years ago at AXPONA, the man knows his $hit, and even he feels that 96/24 Modern mastering is almost overkill and proved that CD's had way more "space" than required for handling anything ever done on analog tape masters at any speed!!
  15. With Stereophile being the worst offender at spreading audio MARKETING BS...........I'm glad I chose to listen to PWK when I was 23 and joined the Audio Engineering Society, where the best people are doing true innovations. As an offshoot of that, there was a group called the Southeast Michigan Woofer and Tweeter Marching Society that INVENTED the AB/X box, and I was there for the initial demonstrations. This CLEARLY was a great tool to determine, with science and statistics, whether a DIFFERENCE could be heard between 2 components (usually amps, pre-amps, cables, etc.) but mostly they got criticism from the "golden ears" people that claimed they could hear a picoBEL drop across a relay contact!!! So over 4 decades ago, I became fully aware of the BS factor in the industry, which is worse than ever today.
  16. I doubt that any of our hearings are impressive above 10 khz.!!
  17. Just new Capacitors and a pair of DaveA's sMAHL 2.0 tweeters would be my very first thing to do.
  18. It's TWO amplifiers on the same chassis. Otherwise you'd be listening to MONO on a Bi-Phonic pair of speakers of a certain distance apart, not Stereo. LOL.
  19. The Crites B2 may have a 3619 or 3636, the latter being the better of the two since it would allow for 1 db incremental reduction of the midrange levels.
  20. If you are a bass freak, like a longtime friend of mine, you can just re-solder the midrange from #3 to #2 on the T2A Autoformer and go to a 2 uF capacitor value, assuming you have a "B" network. This will drop the midrange by 3 db, and leave the woofer and tweeter alone. Your ROOM and your EARS will decide if this fully reverse-able mod is right for YOU.
  21. Don't change the box and it's insulation. You'll be taking a step backwards if you do that. Work on getting a new tweeter from DaveA and new capacitors.
  22. Don't you love it when someone who is not "in the know" quotes someone else who would qualify as a moronic ignoramus when talking about Loudspeakers. Here's some news for that unknown original guy that provided the comment to the OP. From the days of Bell Labs in the 1920's (almost 100 years ago), ALL loudspeakers use electro-magnetic (some electro static) elctro-acoustic transducers, in a box, or horn, or open baffle, that convert Electrical Sine Waves to corresponding Air Motion over an 8-10 Octave range to reproduce what we call music. SURPRISE! ............ALL loudspeakers do the EXACT same thing today using the same PRINCIPLES and devices. In fact, there's an audio show in Europe that features all Western Electric Horn speakers from Theaters in the 1930's whereby the crowds cannot believe how real they sound, even in light of today's, so called, "NEW" developments, which they clearly are not. Better, glues, more exotic materials, perhaps, but magnets, copper, and aluminum are still the same. The ONLY thing that has changed is the COSMETIC STYLE in various combinations, with better ELECTRONICS than we ever had. That original statement is just and OPINION, not a FACT concerning antiquity. Let's not get them mixed up. The KLIPSHORN is proof that some speakers never go out of style and are NEVER antiquated. Also, Cornwalls go lower than Khorns.
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