ClaudeJ1

Here's the layout I used to build my Eminence LAB 12 Driver Tapped Horn........It's, by far, the easiest, cheapest to build of all the subs out there with excellent performance similar to the Danley DTS-20, which, I think, sells for about 3 kilobucks. This one is about 300 bucks with only 2 sheets of plywood. Good luck, Bill. TappedHornPanelLayout.pdf

Like so many people here and on other boards, I'm trying my best to use all of the collective knowledge that is out there, but there is no substitute for being able to measure stuff, because it hadly ever works like the specs or other people's "free" opinions on these boards......oh, and nothing as easy to use as Hornresp.........thank you David McBean.

I will be using the same drivers for my Straight axis horn, so I will probably get a third one so I can still listen while I do R&D. EVM's are the bomb when you consider how inexpensive they are used/reconed.

Right now bulding my new digs, so it will be next year for sure.

Volvotreter's sub is fine. He also did a great job with is conical horn's back chamber, which is ideal for the EVM 15L, which has amazing detail and "speed" in my FH1/SP1 cabs.after EQ of course. Instead of his symmetrical square throat, I made mine rectangular, along with the mouth to match my K402's. Then went a full meter length from throat to mouth, while making the mouth larger and roughly 20x40" so it matches the k402's. It's flat to 80 Hz. and about 6 db down at 70, which is where I want to cross. Making the mouth bigger or the horn longer had diminishing returns as you chew up a lot of real estate to get a few more Hz.

Moray / Speakerfritz / Claude: I stumbled onto a Nelson Pass Open Slot Baffle design that might interest you guys. I'm trying to link the the article, no luck. Type in Open Slot Baffle Nelson Pass (google).2S2P O Read this before. It's more of a subwoofer design, than a mid bass horn, so it's apples and elephants vs. the title of this thread, which we seem to forget for some reason. You did not ask me for the plans for my straight axis horn, so I didn't bother to scan them. What do you really want to build? or are you just trying to gather data for fun?

SP-1 with the top cut off is the same as FH-1. Had both. What I call FH-1 in my system are cut off SP-1's. That way you don't get the handles in the sound path.

I don't think the FH-1 folks got the slot right. the FH-1 only does 58hz (+-3db) to 500hz and is -10 db at 45hz. for the size it's does n't do any better than a lascala bass bin. The LaScala does just as good at 24"X24"X24" vs the 30"X24"X24". And sure...a straight horn is always better.....if you have the room for it. I have owned, measured, and modeled both. The FH-1 is smoother and longer. Neither of them do 58 Hz. very well without EQ

Yep, four drivers in the cabinet. I was looking at acquiring some of those a really long time ago (late 80's or early 90's, I forget) Not a good design for home. You got the cost of 4 drivers there, just to get to 50 Hz. It's a PA design which requires more power handling than a home application. Stick with the singel driver solutions. Don't build a thing unless you model it in Hornresp FIRST.............trust me on this......it will save you time, sawdust, and disappointment. You cant just build something willy nilly and expect it to work right.

I'll see if I can find it and scan it. You only need 2 sheets of 4x8 plywood........about $50/sheet at home depot and one tube of PL glue....and screws, of course. I assembled mine with pocket screws (about $99 for the kit) with the top upside down (yes that is a remote on top of thetop for scale). I did a layout for easiest cuts. There was not much lumber leftover, which is why I like this design. It kicks major butt, is easy to build, and uses a really good driver. In this Tapped Horn, it's equivalent to a couple of 18's, so I heard on the DIY forum. It really shakes the house at those super low frequencies from movies and music too.

For about $300 each you could build 3 tapped horn subs each with a LAB 12 driver, or build 2 a buy a Crown XTI 1000 with built in PEQ/Xover to driver them still for less than $1,000 Two or three subs is better than one to even out room anomalies and give you more output. My prescription would STOMP anything on your list.

Here's the one I actually built (old stack in corner and Cornwall center, which I sold).

I threw together a Sketchup of that design from your JPEG. Attached is a zip file with that sketchup file. Unless I miscalculated, the horn length is 16' 6 13/16", and is therefore tuned to about 17Hz. Have you done any measurements of it? Yes. it's ruler flat from 20-60 at the mouth, and goes down to 15 Hz. with room gain........very low

Very simple and a great performer. You don't need the inductor, it doesn't roll off nearly enough, and it affects the response in a negative manner in the passband. Use the sub out on receiver with a 40-70 Hz. cutoff, or get a Crown XTI-1000 or use a Behringer DCS 2496 with a steep 18-60 hz. L-R slope (24 or 48 db/octave). The one member is perpendicular, the one that wraps around it is rectangular with a tilt at the short piece K.........very easy to do.Gorilla glue will expand to fill any gaps. In my case, I used pocket holes and screws fromthe inside.

Here's the one I built:

The F-20 is not a tapped horn. Won't go quite as low, but more efficient.

The one I built with a LAB 12 driver is 30x60x14. Super easy to build with only 2 sheets of 3/4 ply, glue, and screws. Only 11 pieces of wood.

I can send you my Hornresp if you want I have 23 simulations on there.You can just look at the curves and other things to get acquainted with what it does for existing designs. You can play with the wizard and see what hapens when you change length, throat, back chamber etc.

In bass horns, the bigger the better.........seriously. Otherwise there are too many compromises, including the LaScala, FH-1 etc. the larger Ciare is one foot longer than the FH-1, so it naturally goes lower. The mouth is small, like all compromised horns, but putting it in corners makes up for that. The Jubilee is designed this way. It measures like a LaScala in 1/2 space (as told to me by Trey Cannon in Hope), but measures closer to a Khorn when placed in a corner. Roy said that a Jubillee would benefit from a large, 4 footmouth extension with a V in the center to improve the response below 60 Hz. I think that would get ridiculously large. One is better off with a tapped horn to go from 15-50 Hz. and just buy a Crown XTi-1000 to do the sharp bandpass on it. Most folded horns do better in the MIDBASS rather than the extreme low bass (LaScala and FH-1 140 Hz. peak proves this), and if you want the utimate midbass/lower midrange horn, straight axis measures and sounds best...........but they do get long for true 60-80 Hz cutoff.

I think the larger version is the way to go....I like the idea of a 70 Hz. cutoff....much less EQ and lower distortion....well worth the slightly larger footprint. If you build a tapped horn sub like mine (only $300 with Canadian lumber and a Lab12 driver), it will be hard pressed to go above 70 Hz. without some funky stuff. BTW, if there is some interest, I can post my straight axis horn design and the Hornresp curve for it. You read my mind Claude,very interested to see, as I'm keeping an open mind. That's the Volvotreter's 1 meter bass horn. I remember a reference to it some time back when I was reading another forums info. I modeled the Volvotreter conical bass horn, whichis the simplest to build and has the same curve as the other fancier ones he tried, BUT it only goes to about 100 Hz., not 77 because it's too short. The main thing that LOWERS bass response of horn is LENGTH. A smaller throat increases the high frequency response a little more, which is why I prefer a rectangular throat over a square one like Volvotreter, which is what I did in my design of a larger one. The best thing about Volvotreter's design is the rear chamber, which is optimum for an EVM 15L or B woofer. Dr. Bruce Edgar, a horn expert, really likes that driver, which is why I use it and it blows away all the others I have tried over the last 5 years in 3 different bass horns. I plan on building the one I designed this winter as I am moving to a place with a much larger space to accomodate a straight axis bass horn that sticks out of a corner about 5 feet (1.5 meters total). The ideal horn for that driver is hyperbolic (Bruce Edgar AND Hornresp agree), BUT it's pretty hard to build vs. a simple conical. The only thing you give up is the high frequency response, which, according to Klipsch's Chief Engineer, Roy Delagado (designer of the K402 and so many other horns), you are better off with a fast, light compression driver in terms of perfomance, rather than a cone in plywood horns.......the super light compression driver with huge magnet wins every time, as long as it's not a high power application, which, of course, reproducing music in the home uses the least power. If you want, I can Email you the Hornresp application which contains all of my models, so you can see exactly what I did, along with a scan of my pencil sketch of the design. You can look at the frequency response curve, which is very accurate vs. the measured values I have tried before on real cabinets like the LaScala, FH-1, and MWM. I think I have 23 different models simulated, including mine. Just PM me your Email address, and I will comply.

I think the larger version is the way to go....I like the idea of a 70 Hz. cutoff....much less EQ and lower distortion....well worth the slightly larger footprint. If you build a tapped horn sub like mine (only $300 with Canadian lumber and a Lab12 driver), it will be hard pressed to go above 70 Hz. without some funky stuff. BTW, if there is some interest, I can post my straight axis horn design and the Hornresp curve for it.

The bin you show has a 68.9 Hz. cutoff, abit better than a LaScala, but I'm not sure who makes the driver, since it seems to be Italian. The Peavey FH-1 is good to about 90 Hz, the LaScala is goot to about 100 Hz. before rolloff, so this one is pretty darn good. Plus if one were to upgrade to K402 horns, the width would match perfectly, so this is a good find, Moray. This would be my second choice after a straight axis horn.........better than LS or FH-1.

http://www.dmcbean.bigblog.com.au/index.do All you have to do is go in there and put in the numbers from the driver parmaters and up to 5 progressive linear sections (Z) (by XY area!) of the bass horn you are building. Since you are a fellow Canadian, you should be comfortable with Metric units and conversions from inches. It makes a 2D area drawing of your 3D area dimensions and gives you a frequency response plot, excursion, power handling, etc.......I base everything on 2.83 Volts, which is 1 Watt into 8 ohms. I seriously recommend doing this because it will allow you to modify and improve the response of the bin BEFORE PEQ. Why ram EQ into the thing when you can do it the lumber stage? It lowers the distortion and flattens the response. In terms of intestinal fortitude, time invested, and lumber purchased, I admire what KG4GUY did, but he did so without any measurement or simulation, which would make his bin design a bit suspect...............no offense meant, truly. I have designed a straight axis bass horn for the EVM 15L woofer that is flat from 60-600 Hz., but I have not built it. It was inspired by Volvotreter's 1 Meter bass horn with the 15 L, except I made mine longer and with a slot instead of a square. If you want the smoothest response possible with the greatest detail, then you need to avoid folding..........where you can look down the throat of the bass horn and see the center of the driver. I owned Khorns for 33 years, various LaScalas, I helped build some Jubillee cabinets, etc. and I still think that all horns should be unfolded to as low of a frequency as possible. You have time delay capability so you can align all the horn mouths physically, and electronically adjust for the distance differences. Since you have all the components in place for truly optimizing your fist DIY effort, why not go a step or two further? All it will cost you is time and more floor space, if you have it. Let me know if you need some help with this.

The EVM 15L response doesn't rise in the FH-1 cabinet. it just gives a up teeny bit on the bottom to give you an extra 4 db on the top at 400 Hz. The FH-1 naturally rolls off at about 300, so I'm crossing into the K402 at 320 Hz. The JBL is a very expensive driver and it's higher power handling and excusion capability only comes in handy for bass reflex, not for horns. The max. excursion on my EVM 15 L's according to the Hornresp model is less than 1 mm, even after bass boost at the bottom. I measure about 25 milli watts of power into the woofer, with about 10 milliwatts in the midrange/tweeter section. I'm currently running a $26 Lepai stereo chip amp with the 2020 Tripath chip into my woofer section from the Behringer, powered by a 3 amp Radio Shack power supply that was given to me, and it sounds really good. When PWK said: "What the world needs is a good 5 Watt amplifier," good, cheap chip amps were not yet available. One of the Klipsch engineers tested one of my Sonic Impacs in Indy, and he said it was a VERY GOOD 6 Watt amplifier, so I will be using those on the K402 and tweeter when I go full active Xover/PEQ/Time Alignement in my new digs.

I'm not modeling the JBL any time soon. I just moved all my speakers to a new space, which is a large loft, which I'm enlarging. The EV speakers stomped the K33's and Crites 1526. According to Dr. Bruce Edgar, the EVM 15 L or B is the best 15" woofer for a horn, and it models extremely well. Again I went from 4 way to 3-way, and it was tough to fill the missing sound from the Peavey MB-1 super midbass/midrange horn. It too the EVM woofer with brand new cones and lots of digital EQ to make it work and it's wonderful. I have no need for a JBL. I would like to see the results of that guy's MEASURMENTS, not just "opinion" need to see data. What kind of "distortion"