ClaudeJ1
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Posts posted by ClaudeJ1
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2 hours ago, JohnJ said:
Hey now be careful guys... I've seen @ClaudeJ1 as he's spoken with experience and with proof to back it up.
I think he might be holdin' back right now...
Great comment.
Since version II is likely fixed an the only one available at an even lower price than the original, I would say the only fear is fear itself.
Whether these guys buy one or not will not change my life & audio happiness one iota.
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3 hours ago, jjptkd said:
I really don't see the point in getting angry over this or trying cover up or shift blame on a design issue from a manufacturer that has already been acknowledged and addressed.
I was not "covering up" or angry about anything. I'm generally just impatient with posts that totally miss the Clarity of my posts. Or contribute zero.
Just stating my real world experience, nothing more, nothing less.
Never read more "into" a post past what is EXACTLY written. After 10,000 of them I think I figured out how to do that Accurately myself.
Everything else is misconstrued on the part of the reply typists, including YOU apparently.
Also, I will not stand for someone telling me to "stop it," especially from people who never contribute anything POSITIVE or useful here. If I ever call out anyone's "bullshit" here, the term was coined by Paul Klipsch himself & should be immune from retorts of outrage or censorship.
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1 hour ago, Bacek said:
I was never repairing any of my cars on warranty. Conclusion is: cars never brake on warranty, only users brake them?
Since most speakers are WORSE "space heaters" than Klipsch speakers are latest from Part Express clock in at 78 dB/watt 4 ohm impedance, vs. 90-104 for most Klipsch proucts, the typical user I spoke of simple uses more power, like 100 times more, which is why the early failures exist.
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5 hours ago, Bacek said:
The problem is not in "power" part but in feedback circut, users where raising heating issues on that part even on standbay.
Saying that I just ordered PA5 II to hear what the fuzz is all about.
I own 3 of the original an 1 of the V II for over 2 years. Never a single issue with horns. I NEVER turn them off, only the Pre amp an source get turned off. Never Blame the Product on what might Be id10t users.
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19 hours ago, Flevoman said:
I'm curious about so much that's coming up. I can't wait until some more official information about the new subs and La Scala upgrade finally comes out.
Roy has made respectable performance in the "Below 80 Hz. world" of Horns with HORNS. Physics is Physics. Large, heavy lumber is not for high volume products.................a Market Reality!
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22 hours ago, Marvel said:
A two channel Jensen IsoMax is over $200, with amazing specs. Yes, more than most lunches.
Unless it's a very, very fine lunch with a few friends & a large bar Tab!
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12 hours ago, Marvel said:
Or get some transformers... but they could be pricey.
Oh, no. Heaven forbid you might have to spend more than Lunch Money for anything that works well in audio.
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On 3/21/2024 at 1:43 PM, Chief bonehead said:
Why not? Just curious as to why you know me so well….🤔
and I don’t eat bass….
From an intellectual perspective, you are not that hard to figure out.
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On 3/11/2024 at 4:34 PM, MMurg said:
Yes, for the active DSP crossover configuration, you will need six channels of amplification
you forgot a plate amp for the sub
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On 3/11/2024 at 1:25 PM, MMurg said:
Perhaps @Chief bonehead can comment on your questions.
No, he can't. PWK left us 22 years ago. Fred sold the company 12 years ago.W need to get real about this.
emos are one thing, but posting the recipe for a fine dish is a NONO for the finest chefs in the world. I just want his recipe for broiled bass with lemon butter (if he has one).
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15 minutes ago, Marvel said:
Those look very nice, Jeff. What model are those? Are they decorators finished off with simple appointments or totally factory?
Speaking of nice photos, did you ever install those Four 12" drivers into the Snail Horns you got from me over a year ago? Just curious as to how they might sound and/or measure.
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16 hours ago, avguytx said:
Or a parametric EQ. Or any decent EQ for that matter.
Since commercial recordings get "stepped on" so many times and so many ways, what's one more Step?
At least the user has the final Control Step instead of out of control idiots with large checkbooks!
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18 hours ago, winglet said:
I’d think L pads (adjustable or fixed) would be the easier solution to drop the mid and tweet output if he finds them too “bright”
2 Words: ROOM Treatments!
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12 hours ago, Deang said:
If it sounds good on most things, and sometimes not on others - it’s not the speakers it’s the recordings.
Yup. And the total fallacy of some "Audiophiles," is the statement:
"I want my speakers to give me the sound as the Artist intended."
PWK did it right with his recordings and hsi 2PH3 Array of Horns.
The rest of the recordings TODAY, have been Stepped ON a half dozen times in the Mastering stages with so many Electronic Toys....
All driven by the idiots with a big checkbook the say: "Make everything louder than everything else."
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56 minutes ago, Khornukopia said:
Just in case someone with a PA5 needs this info, (1) Topping PA5 fix - D01 Module Replacement for everyone | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
I don't need a fix. I have zero problems with mine driving horns at either 4 or 8 ohms, passive. I have 3 of the originals and one Mk II version. I'm sure guys that had problems were trying to drive 84 db space heater speakers with too many watts. No "solution" needed here.
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On 2/12/2024 at 4:09 PM, Thaddeus Smith said:
Correct, along with a bit of additional wave guide/"horn" ..which is why I have two pair available for sale.
You are lucky the price went back up. They were available for like, $150 new for a while, which would kill your attempt at selling. I have 4 of them myself, so not need. GLWS.
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On 2/17/2024 at 9:40 AM, Woofers and Tweeters said:
@codewritinfool, I have had these Walnut SMAHL for a while. Thanks @Dave A
I got them out and oiled them last night. @ClaudeJ1, I will be installing them on my first pair of SH 1.5 build.
I have 2 pairs in my Walnut SH 1.0's with E networks w/refreshed caps of the same value. Maybe SH 1.1 would be more appropriate, since not raising the horns up to a Cornwall b2 Network level (and the leads are already reversed for the horns). This (built in the E network) polarity change gets better phase response and creates a better sounding version vs. my original with the less attenuated horns. I should have never commented that it was, effectively, a "b" Network with reversed polarity.
The confusion it created was unnecessary and the KISS rule should have been applied. The less you do to an E network Heresy, the better it is. My bad on that note.
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On 12/23/2023 at 6:28 PM, jjptkd said:
That's taking it a bit far these amps are decent- and impressive for what they are but I found them lifeless compared to my Carver tube amps, just no where near as enjoyable. Just because they spec better than most amps doesn't mean it sounds better sorry.
The Carver Tube amps sound "better" because they use their inherent Microphonics as part of the feedback circuit. In other words, they "listen to the room" they are in. I use a microphone for the same feed back in solid state. It's an apples and elephants comparison at best. Not Class D vs Glass. It's not that simple.
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On 1/14/2024 at 5:48 PM, pcbiz said:
Yes, I do understand. It's quite normal to decry thicker cables giving a little more current and sonic improvement to a speaker. It's also quite normal for the DIY crowd to find out that it's quite true, and definitely worth the time to try it.
PWK told me it was a waste of good copper just to drive a #30 gauge wire in the K33 WOOFER. So only worth the time to YOU, as my bs meter is pegging about doing that to a frikkin' Tweter!
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1 hour ago, pcbiz said:
I also used 10 awg copper wires for the crossover/driver connections. It's a very nice and balanced sound. It sounds just like turning the gain up three steps or so on an analog mixer.
And if you have any extra, you can use it to Jump Start a Diesel Locomotive! bs alerts notwithstanding.
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6 hours ago, 1000frogs said:
Type e seems great because I’ll just have to take the 4uf caps out of circut and leave in the 2uf
You can just use an E network with the same woofers, that's all.
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On 12/23/2023 at 6:28 PM, jjptkd said:
That's taking it a bit far these amps are decent- and impressive for what they are but I found them lifeless compared to my Carver tube amps, just no where near as enjoyable. Just because they spec better than most amps doesn't mean it sounds better sorry.
You skipped the keyword "value" when stating YOUR preference for permanent Tone Controls over neutrality.
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16 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:
There is still output below a Horn Cutoff The question is how many dB down is it ..The Transducer does not know it' firing into a Horn. 🙄
Apparently the real question is "Will it still let us ROCK OUT on having them NOT in corners?" If it does, then no amount of factual feedback from Amateurs will suffice. Only fanboy emotional "testing" responses will be approved or retained.
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15 hours ago, Chief bonehead said:
SMH…..welcome to bonehead land
Thank you for the invitation. 😊😁
Topping PA5 is incredible.
in Solid State
Posted
I have owned 32 (still have some) of Tom's U.S.A. conical horn products over time.Lots of low distortion sound in small packages is his jam. He still plays bass along with his music. I hope Roy still plays drums an wears hearing protection. LOL.
I just designed and built a pair of d'Appolito reflex, twin 15" Eminence speakers with the latest concentric 2-way compression drivers in a PRV horn to replace the Klipsch Forte 1, just sold to my brother for his basement system. Leaving his Cornwalls upstairs for his wife's living room.
I'm bi-amping the passive woofer & mid-tweeter section with 2 PA-5's. An original one (over 2 years old, never shut off) on the high end and a PA-5 II on the bass, which of course uses 10-12 db more power than the horn portion. At 100 db/W sensitivity,, I never worry about enough power. I have finer control of relative amplitudes vs. Autoformers or resistors (it's "dial a fractional db control").
It's also called "great, useful watts" for the dolar.
Always look for what it Good in a product vs. the bad REVIEWS everyone else seems to seek incessantly, which prevents them from progressing in their quest for better sound.