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Everything posted by Islander

  1. In my own experience, with a pair of JubScala IIs (highly modded bi-amped La Scala IIs), and a single 400-watt 10” direct-firing sub, all was well. It produced what seemed to be a fine amount and quality of bass-range music. Then, I decided to replace that sub with a more modern 850-watt 10” direct-firing sub from the same company, Paradigm, because I felt that I’d been missing the lowest octave of music, since the new sub went about 5 Hz deeper, 18 Hz versus 23 Hz. While the new sub did go much deeper, with more authority/power, now I had an extreme (+20 dB) bass peak centred about a metre/yard in front of the sofa. At first, I wondered if my favourite Net Radio station had cranked up the bass for some reason, since I often passed through that space during the day and couldn’t help noticing the odd bass-heavy sound in the room. Then I realized that it was happening in just that area and figured it out, so I bought and installed a second matching sub, another Paradigm Seismic 110. Now, the bass sound level was consistent throughout the room, plus the added power gave the sound a fuller, more rounded, more realistic feel. This is what I was after! Now, the system had a sound that seemed complete in a way that I hadn’t heard before. It’s like it was the missing link that allowed the system to finally reach its potential, as a satisfying sound that had been just out of reach all the while. Your mileage may vary, of course, since your room and your system is different from mine, but maybe this bit of knowledge and experience could be helpful to you in your quest for great sound.
  2. I’ve been using a Shure M97xE cartridge for 15 years (replaced the stylus twice), which has an elliptical stylus. I suspect that the stylus rides at a different height in the groove than the styli on cartridges I’ve used in the past. It’s just a theory of mine (or hypothesis to a scientist), based on the fact that scratches are less audible with this cartridge, and the difference is obvious on some of my older LPs. It makes for more pleasant listening.
  3. Sometimes it does seem like “Echoes” does have some filler in the middle, but the lyrics are great: And through the window in the wall Come streaming in on sunlight wings A million bright ambassadors of morning For just one small sample.
  4. Aww, that was sad to see. I hope you can get them replaced soon. The 402s really do sound great, even better than the K510 horns. The EQ for them is kind of complicated. I started out with K-69-A drivers and K510 horns, and tried to set them up by ear, which didn't work out too well. "Shelving filters, anyone?" It was over my head. Then I got the proper settings and punched them all in, but even so, I still needed help to integrate the Electro-Voice Dx38 processor (this is what Roy used before the Xililca was available, so that's what I got), which uses pro voltage, into my home system, which has a 6 dB difference in the voltage it uses. Sorry for the poor explanation, but life was simpler after I got an ART Cleanbox Pro, which is a matching unit exactly for connecting pro sound gear to home audio systems. If your preamp has balanced (XLR) outputs, and your processor/EQ unit also has XLR connectors (I don't know if the Xilica has them), and so do your power amps, then there's no problem. Everything will probably connect just fine, but in my case I'm using an AV receiver as a preamp, so its RCA connections are not what the Dx38 wanted to see. That's why the Cleanbox was needed, but it wasn't very expensive, at about $90CAD, plus another $70 for a pair of XLR interconnects. It also reduces the faint hiss that you might hear from the drivers on the 402s, which is another benefit.
  5. I think the black paint was a Valspar product.
  6. I wasn't able to log on for over a week. I'd get the list of Sections. but when I clicked on any of them, I'd get "This File is Not Active", or something like that. After about five days, even the list of Sections wouldn't come up, just a warning that this site was not trustworthy. It was like the whole Forum had disappeared. Klipsch Service was still open, but clicking on Community would just bring up the FAQs, with no mention of the Forum. Then I took a last chance on October 23rd or 24th, and Googled Klipsch Forum, and there was the Forum, back and big as life! That really made my day/week! Was it like that for everyone else?
  7. Me neither, but the song is so silly that just trying it makes me laugh. I'm not familiar with Focus's other music, which may be much less silly. And thanks for posting Tarkus. That really is an iconic song/LP side. I played it for my nephew and tried to explain why the inside double-width image doesn't need any words. I think he got some idea of what I meant.
  8. I was just listening to Hocus Pocus by Focus on Radio Paradise, and thinking it would be amusing to ask someone unfamiliar with the song to sing along with the vocals. Then I tried it myself, and it was pretty amusing. Try it yourself. Focus - Hocus Pocus:
  9. Best wishes to you, too, Randy!
  10. Start with the simple and inexpensive possibilities first. Check for a loose connection. Maybe one of the screws that hold down the connectors on the tweeter leads has loosened gradually over the years, and is finally loose enough that the connection is broken. Have you had these speakers for long? With older speakers, it’s often a good idea to go over all the connections, loosening and then re-tightening the screws. This may break any corrosion that has formed, and allow for a good connection once more. It’s even possible that one of the tweeter leads are broken. If the break is under the insulating jacket, it won’t be visible, but gently moving the wire around to see if the tweeter cuts in and out is a quick and easy way to check the wire. Anything made of wire can fail at any time. This includes the voice coil of the tweeter. If there appears to be no problem with the wires, then check the tweeter itself. An ohmmeter can tell you if current can get in and out of your tweeter. If you disconnect the tweeter leads to isolate the tweeter and then connect the meter to the positive and negative leads, you should get a resistance between roughly 3 and 10 ohms. Note: this is resistance, not impedance. Resistance is DC, while impedance is AC. If the number is more like infinity, something is broken in the tweeter. Those are the most basic checks. I’m sure you get some comments from members with more knowledge and experience than me. You came to the right place for help. Welcome to the Forum!
  11. So now I’m curious. What does “De Kat Zat Op De Krant” mean? Thanks.
  12. I thought that was pretty whiny, too. He claims that he’s embarrassed because the whole world has seen his infant wiener. Big frickin’ deal! We’re guys. We don’t care who sees our genitals. Some of us, the ones with very poor judgement, send pictures of our tackle to women, and maybe even to some men. Jay Leno even had a pose during a joke to represent a guy “showing off”. He would stand with his hands on his hips, with his elbows back and a proud/smug look on his face, and would turn first a bit to one side, then a bit to the other side. The meaning was clear to everyone, but it was not rude, merely a bit risqué. BTW, I use the term “tackle”, rather than the more common “junk”, because that term seems really disrespectful to some of the most popular, sometimes even kissable, parts of our anatomy. It’s equipment to do a job, e.g. tackle, and hopefully it does that job well. Junk, on the other hand, is usually ugly and undependable. And no geriatric comments about that last sentence, please.
  13. It can be hard to believe that both books were written by the same man, until you realize Starship Troopers is satirical, something that doesn’t really come across in the movie. Stranger in a Strange Land is definitely my preferred book, of those two Heinlein works.
  14. ^^Agreed^^. They’re your speakers. You own them, not the other way around. Enjoy listening to your La Scalas, and by spending time on here you’ll get lots of ideas, along with seeing what other happy Scala owners have done. La Scalas were the speakers that prompted me to find the Forum, and it’s been a great fifteen years here. Congrats on getting your great new-to-you speakers, and welcome to the Forum!
  15. Having an open space under a speaker violates one of Paul Klipsch’s 8 Principles, so it’s not the best setup for good sound. The Heresy has optional slant risers, but they are closed, thus not violating the Principle.
  16. Active crossovers are generally set-and-forget, IF you can find the correct settings. With the Jubilee (and the JubScala, JuBelle, and related variants), the settings are well known, and are readily available on the Forum. I’ve been using an E-V Dx38 processor/crossover since 2008 with no problems, and no experimenting on my part. If you stick to the recommended components, it should not be too hard to set up an active 2-way system.
  17. I don't think it's possible to fully delete posts, so most of us type "Sorry, double post", or just leave a dot (.) when it happens, or when you have second thoughts about your post and would like it to disappear. It is easy to double post sometimes, so it has happened to many of us. Second thoughts, too.
  18. The newer type capacitors may well be better than the ones that went into La Scalas in the Seventies. In my speakers, I’m guessing the exact values were hard to find at the time, so in one position, there were three tin cans, stacked one atop the next, and wired together, to add up to the right number. The problem is that the only external sign of failure that I’m aware of is oil leaking. Beyond that, a test for Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR) is what’s needed. If the value is too high, the capacitor is scrap. However, that test requires a meter that the average audio fan doesn’t have, so that’s why most of us go by the age of the speakers. It turned out to be right in the case of my speakers, but YMMV. As for “upgrading”, which some think would be a good idea, because the components in our speakers are sometimes not the best available, throwing in a pair of better/more expensive woofers, for example, can often result in disappointment. PWK was a great audio engineer, in many ways, and one of them was in not wasting any money. If he could find a decent quality part that was very consistent in performance, and available in the quantities he needed, maybe for years, he’d use it and design the rest of the speaker to work in harmony with it. That way, he could achieve the performance he wanted, and still keep parts costs low. Some people try to say that, based on the parts list, these speakers should sell for less, but the parts list doesn’t include the engineering time and talent that went into making the speakers what they are. These are not knockoffs, copies that include only the hardware that you see. They’re the original item, and every Heritage Series speaker includes some of the genius that PWK brought to the job every day. That’s priceless.
  19. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ See what I meant about a rabbit hole? ^^^^^^^^^^^ BTW, the mid driver is called the squawker. Woofer, squawker, tweeter. That term isn’t widely used anymore, for reasons I don’t understand, but it’s still used happily among Klipsch fans.
  20. I was surprised to see so many recommendations to attach your TV to the wall, in order to get it back a bit. Wouldn’t it be much easier and less expensive to just move the speakers ahead 4”-6”? Years ago, I read that it’s very important for the speakers to “see” each other. This means that between the speakers, there should be nothing ahead of a line between the front of one speaker and the front of the other speaker. I’ve always set up my systems with this in mind, generally by making sure the TV and the electronics stack were fairly close to the front wall (the wall behind the front speakers), and then placing the La Scalas for smoothest bass response. The Scalas are 24” deep and the La Scala IIs are 25” deep, so it’s pretty easy to have them sitting ahead of everything between them, while keeping them within 6” from the front wall. As for sound absorption, keep in mind that the different wavelengths of sound make a big difference in what gets absorbed. With a high frequency sound, the wavelength might be only an inch long, so an inch of absorption material could absorb much of it. With a deep bass note, its wavelength could be 10, 20, or 30 feet long, so a sound wave like that would not even “notice” a 1” sound absorbing panel or comforter. A thin blanket is even less effective. On the subject of sound absorbing materials, there’s an inexpensive DIY way to make sound absorbing panels. Just take or make a frame of the appropriate size, and use old towels, neatly folded with a minimum of air gaps. I read this a couple of years ago, so I’ve forgotten exactly how the guy secured the towels to the frames, but he may have used thread or thin wire. The guy describing this in an audio magazine used a meter to check the relative effectiveness of various materials, and the tightly packed towels were as effective as any of the store-bought materials. The top layer can even be dyed or painted to match or accent the decor of the room.
  21. Congrats on your La Scalas, and welcome to the Forum! I wouldn’t worry about your crossovers for the time being. 1992 is not new, but not ancient either. It would be a good idea to listen to your speakers for a few months without changing anything, so you get completely familiar with their sound. Then, when you do decide to change something, you’ll be better able to decide if you made an improvement, or just a difference. As for the water spot, I’d try gentle rubbing, with a very slightly damp cloth. My dad once left a cold drippy pop can on the top of one of my 1974 Birch Black La Scalas. I wasn’t pleased, but I got to work, and in about half and hour the round mark was gone. The can had been there for less than 24 hours, which may have helped. In a few months, it would be good to consider getting new capacitors for your crossovers. The rest of the parts seem to last indefinitely. While you’re shopping, better tweeters are available. Crites is the most popular place to get update parts (they’re very knowledgeable about Klipsch speakers, because that’s their specialty, and they’re friendly and helpful, too). There’s another site for caps that Randy knows well and will probably mention. Now that I think about it, my 1974 Scalas were 32 years old when I got them, and yours are 29 years old, so new caps will improve the sound. At that time (2006), I tested the 32-year-old K77 tweeters for output, using a Radio Shack sound level meter, and found a 2-3 dB imbalance between them. I figured that couldn’t be good, so I ordered a pair of Crites CT125 tweeters when I ordered the capacitor kits, which also come with little plastic saddles and zip-ties. Wanting to know which upgrade did what to the sound, I changed the caps first, and was quite pleased with the improved power and clarity. A few days later, after I got a bit familiar with the sound, in went the new tweeters. Once again, clearly improved sound. BTW, the output difference with the Crites tweeters was only about 1/2 dB. It was also a bit lower than the output of the K-77s, for an impression of stronger bass. Now they also have have CT120 tweeters, which are said to be even better than the CT125s. Those two updates should make your good speakers sound better. After that, the mods/updates/upgrades start getting more complicated and more expensive. I’d stay away from that particular rabbit hole for a long time, maybe years. Happy listening!
  22. Meanwhile, I just have to be content with listening to my Palladiums. Well, you’re just roughing it, aren’t you? I’m kidding, of course, and I’m sure you are, too, but sometimes it seems like most of the grumbles I hear on the Forum are great examples of First World problems. Sometimes we forget just how lucky we are to have high performance Klipsch speakers to hear our music through. Happy listening, everyone!
  23. "Once removed? Well, that makes all the difference, right?" Unfortunately, his fans didn't think so.
  24. Yes, that's the right kind of material, but you'll want to wait until you get at least one panel off before you order any, so you can see the thickness and width that the factory used to seal the panels. As you can see, it comes in quite a wide range of widths and thicknesses. For best adhesion, you should use alcohol to clean away all the sticky glue residue. 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol should be equally good. You just want to get the glue area as clean as possible. That rubbing alcohol is also great for cleaning connectors and cable ends before attaching connectors to them.
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