InVeNtOr

i think the TV comment is what i wasn't considering. you are right, a nice big TV with tiny speakers seems dumb. right now with the 42" it almost looks dumb with big speakers. i was only talking about running wires in the wall if i went with the G28's. i would have to drill horizontal thru the wall, not a huge deal, i just didn't want to. in my current set up, the wire you see to the mains (center too) will be replaced at some point. i just don't know by what or when. i will most likely run a small speaker wire track against the wall and blend it in, apposed to running it all the way vertical and back down, increasing my speakers cables from 9' to 30'. honestly, i think i want to explore the braided speaker cable route. i really like the new power cables i made with a 4 braid x 4 braid, so the braided speaker cables should fit right in. thanks Scrappydue from talking me off the ledge!

Hello fellow K-heads! i've had a complete 7.1 setup (RF-7/Emotiva) , dual amps, total blow your hair back set up.... i had to move and box it up for several years.... i've recently started back over but i can only do a 3.1. it's set up, tuned in, and still sounds good when i run the THX demo. here's my thoughts...i'm thinking of putting the entire 7 series away. i already have 1 amp, and 4 RS-42's boxed up. i doubt i can sell my set up due to all the mods. my mods don't come with a "name brand" just me, my word, and the caps i chose (which differ from the norm). i'm thinking of going with a G42 because it's very clean and i can mount it below my future 75" TV. i would leave my entertainment system alone, because i would still use my UMC-1 with XPA-3. i know, the XPA is a little overkill, but it's what i have. this way i can still use my Sunfire Sub and not need to do any additional cabling. my concern... the G42 will sound so much worse than the 7 series. i've never heard one but i know it can't compete with any reference speaker. i was also thinking of 3 G-28's, but they are $350 each. just a bit much for what you get. i know that series is about performance with a certain look (which i like), but i don't want to run all the wires in the walls. (i know, silly reason). so what does everyone think? is this just a dumb idea? will i regret the switch? oh, the G42 doesn't come cheap. it's $550 new from an authorized dealer. (Sound Distributors) posting a pic of the 3.1. it's not "finished" but it gets the point across. the 42" looks super small, and No, i wouldn't normally set a TV on a RC-7, but i really have no choice. the speaker wire is just Mil Spec 12awg twisted pair. i had it laying around i knew it would "work".

so, that's an IR remote, but it can work like RF? is that what "extenders" do?

so, i have the Logitech One, what i hate is my dog seems to sit, stand, lay, and hover in the EXACT spot that will block the remote from working! i know, so stupid but i get so frustrated, especially when i am fast forwarding.... so i'm looking into ANYTHING else that is dog proof. my first thought is to stick with Logitech, but i don't know which model would be best. Oh sure, the "Elite" seems it would work, but i'm not spending $300+ on a remote. i looked up the 900 which is the same as the One, but is RF. i see there are a few emitters, but i hope i don't need one for each device. i really don't know how or what i need for that remote to work. it would be awesome if there was a remote that worked with Linux Mint, but i don't think that is going to happen. does anyone have a suggestion on a remote that i can program, be "dog proof", and can do the simple 1 button operation of turning on multiple devices at once? thanks!

i use RS42's with upgraded crossovers. i have 4 of them. i built a custom speaker stand that worked great. they kept up with my RF7/RC7 quite well (which also has the same upgraded crossover).

thanks for that. you know, if it was Renaissance time, i would check it out! (FYI, Waxahachie has a HUGE Renaissance festival each year, and we go almost every year!)

wow, you ask, and you shall receive. lol! so that is the basic 83? i'll have to message him and ask.

i think the only Oppo in a price range i can swing past the wife is the 83, possibly the 83SE

specs on the Sony look amazing. "Super WiFi", what ever that is, i want that! lmao! "super quick start", sounds great, just curious if you really start watching your movie in a minute...."Screen Mirroring" sounds cool. maybe if i'm watching NFL mobile on the phone, it would transfer???

lol. ok. so i now at least have a starting point. thanks for the input, it's really helped.

Ok, let me be honest, i "want" an Oppo player, i don't "need" an Oppo player... i am currently using the PS3 for a Do-It-All. so far, i've been very happy with it, but i also have no idea of it's playing quality vs. others... i only have a 3.1 set up, so most of the nice 7.1 features are out the window... i read Willand's response to "Recommended Blu-Ray player"... i am thinking of getting a PS4, but i already found out the blu-ray HT player ability is on the low/sucky (that's a real term by the way...lol)... so considering Willand's list, is there a player that would be sub $300? is that even possible. Ebay had the 93/95 for $500... i saw an Oppo BDP-83 for $410 + shipping, but most thought that was too much, would that player be a good choice considering i'm only a 3.1? suggestions appreciated.... thanks again **just looked at Audiogon, Oppo 83 for $275**

here you go....finally someone said it.... if you don't use a SPL meter (analog if you can find it) then it will be wrong. only super high end gear can actually tune your speakers to your room. do all the basics and have all the settings correct. oh, just so you don't think you are along....i owned a Klipsch set up with a nice Sony receiver for 10 YEARS before i knew to have the "night mode" turned OFF!!!!!!!!!! yeah, that made a difference! lmao! go through all the settings and make sure you know what each one is and actually does. then run your SPL meter test, and i bet you will think u installed a new system.

well, this happened to me....i had some KSF 10.5's that i did a crossover mod on (cheaper end caps) and when i switched to a set of RF-7's (un-modified) i felt disappointed. i actually wanted my 10.5's back. in my opinion they were "better" than the 7's. the AVR at the time for the 10.5's was an old Sony (like 10yrs) and when i got the 7's i purchased the new Onkyo 805 (which was HIGHLY suggested). my 7's did not sound as good until i purchased a Emotiva LPA-1 and bi-amped them. that's when i sat back and realized what i had. then i did my first generation crossover mod and was very. i later did more research and figured out a few other ways to improve the 7's (at least in my opinion) and did a second generation crossover mod along with cabinet and horn mods. so in the end, the best AVR receiver with amazing power just didn't make the 7's sing. you really need a good Separate configuration. i also upgraded the AVR to Emotiva UMC-1, XPA-3, and LPA-1. oh, in case it got overlooked, when the LPA-1 was powering the L/C/R, the Onkyo 805 was powering the rear 4. the bi-amping made them a touch "louder" but i didn't hear/think it was "better." i switched because i didn't want to spend money on the extra banana plugs and wire. going separates isn't expensive either. i'm attempting to help a buddy out and i found a UMC-1 for around $300 and i'm selling him my LPA-1 amp for $350. so combined he will have a great processor with 125w x 5 and 2 x 50 A/B design for sub $700. i don't think there is an AVR with that kind of power in that price range that will actually give u a true 125x5. i don't know how deep your pockets are but i would suggest finding a UMC-1 or UMC200 and then any Amp configuration from Emotiva that suits your needs. i will always suggest an XPA-3 for the front, but if you are running just a 5.1, an XPA-5 is a great choice. check their for sale section and see if you can find an older UPA amp. those "replaced" the LPA-1 (mind has the bigger transformer, i think). depending on pocket book, looks, and what u are going for, the mini-x is a small 50w that would be great for surrounds. if you have the deep pockets for it, Emotiva has an XMC-1 that is actually "future proof" because it's fully modular. when new items come out, they will send you the part (if you are brave enough). oh, the XMC-1 has 8, that's EIGHT hdmi ports and 2 hdmi outs. that has to be more then you need. if not, please invite me over because i really want to be your friend! i think your only "issue" is lack of true power.

do you still have these?

do you still have the umc1?

My biggest problem is I don't have a firm concept of what to build, and I don't have the skill or tools to build boxes. So there is my vague notion of a project. Suggestions/directions accepted. wow! that is a big problem! lol! i'm not good on different design ideas, i'm better at taking something and improving the parts and making those have better synergy. i personally would suggest doing the same thing one forum member did and build a normal CF4, but in a center configuration. i don't know who he is, but he build a RF-7 as a center speaker. it looked good, real good. if it were me, i would want something like the RC64. i really really really like the 4 woofer design and the fact it's sealed, is icing. now, i have zero idea if that's the "best" design, but i sure do like how it looks! lol! i want to get rid of my 7's, and go to a RB61 / RC64 combo just because i like how they look together with all matching size woofers. (i know, that's dumb, and i won't do it, but i just like how it looks). i wonder, can you build a center speaker with one of those Got Hover wooden horns? would that even work? i think a 3.1 Belle set up would be killer, i just don't like the size of one as a center. that was one of my sticking points for me building Corscalas, i had issues making the center smaller, well shaped different to work in my set up as a center. once you answer that pm, i'll grab some flat rate boxes and see if i can get it to fit...

oh, tip for the day....when it comes to installing this foam (or any adhesive backed item, such as stickers etc) spray the adhesive side with alcohol and you will be able to slide the item into place. depending on how much you spray will depend on how many minutes you have to work with it. for instance, if you have a large decal you want to install without bubbles or creases, spray the alcohol, place the decal, and use a paint scraper (plastic of course) and smooth it out. you will be left with a perfectly placed decal with zero bubbles or creases.

So, here are the items I can let go.... good thing u r not building power/rca cables, I have much, much more! The red twisted wire, that 12awg Anticables wire.... RF7 tweeter.... military spec twisted 12awg wire... monoprice wire.... Caps/resistor from RC7 mod.... klipsch monster jumpers... gold speaker spade terimanls.... Nickel speaker spade terimanls.... (I don't think they are silver) Teflon spikes (what I used for my RC7 crossover).... 48 pieces of horn cut foam.... a large piece of Isodamp (it's the antivibration material without foam)... mounting hardware. Those are inserts u screw into the MDF, then u can use 10/32 or 8/32 screws to have a acess. Teflon tubing for insulating caps/resistors.... if u want, figure out how u r going to build the speaker, and let me know how many u need. I have a bunch because I was going to build custom cornscalas.

donations you say.....hm..... i have boxes of stuff i am not using. let me go through it and i'll tell what i have and you can cherry pick your way through it. some hot items...i do have my first set of caps from my first RC7 mod, i have gold contacts for hooking wires to speakers, i have teflon tubing for cap/resistor leads, and other mis. stuff. i'll set some stuff out and take a pic for ya.

that's exactly why i use it. it makes my plastic RF7/RC7 horn sound like a wooden horn. that is why my crossovers differ from others.

thanks for the complement. i would assume i wouldn't "hear" much of a difference, but i just had to ask. i'll probaby put a few pieces of foam on the bottom and not think twice about it. the only problem, once it's on, it's ON! i have very badly damaged speakers, so i can't hurt the value anyways. if you really want some of it, pay for the shipping and i'll send you all that i have. the issue would be, they are all cut into RF7/RC7 foam kits. so all in triangles. you can see the shape in the "horn mod" link. i'll stick 3 pieces on the bottom and that should balance it just fine. one of the attributes of this foam, it only needs to cover 85% of the surface to work 100%. i was thinking of going to just a 2.1 but i already have the extra amp and 4 other RS-42's all boxed up....i can't bare the thought of the RC7 sitting in the attic. i can't sell it either, the condition isn't 100% perfect, and i changed the crossover so now it won't match any stock RF7's. one guy on here was really interested in buying it, but i steered him away because i don't think it would sound good with stock 7's. i guess i'm a tard for listing it for sale. sometimes i don't know what's wrong with me....lol.

i know this subject is in a tread somewhere, but i can't find it again. basically, i have my fully modded 7's sitting on a hard tile floor (it's the tile that looks like hard wood). i read on one of these treads two guys having a "discussion" about it's better to remove the feet and have the speaker directly on the floor. one of them even shared a very old newspaper image of Mr. Klipsch himself saying to not have feet installed. when these were in my apartement, the feet were removed just because i didn't feel like re-installing them after i moved in. when they were at my home, they were on. i never did an A/B, and doubt i ever will.... so my basic question is, is it better to have the feet on or leave them off and put some foam under them? the foam i will be using is the same stuff i put on my horns and inside the cabinet. it's Aircraft grade antivibration foam. basically, dynamat for airplanes. these are in a 3.1 configuration, in an open floor plan home, on tile. there is a very large rug in that room but it doesn't cover the entire room. if i'm being honest, without feet seems to be a better option, becasue i can slide those heavy suckers around easier, but if having the feet on are a much better way, then i'll go that route. thanks for your help....

ordered Slim passive series. reasons: flexibility, size, and length (only 3' long). i'll also like to "match" them to the Active series once i buy a new tv and wall mount it.

Slim passive Metallic series does anyone use either one of these? i plan on replacing my current HDMI cables just because i want something more flexable. i understand the Metallic has a bigger AWG and has metal connectors, but other than that, the specs are the same. i've had two different chats with Monoprice tech reps, and there is no other data on these. i ASSUME (lol) that the metal one is a sheilded cable because of the use of metal connectors. if it's not a shielded cable, then metal connectors are a waste. i understand the Slim series is way more flexible than the Metallic and the Metallic is more flexible than the commercial series. i find this funny, the metallic series is way cheaper than slim! i would prefer to have a shielded cable, but either way it goes, these HDMI are only going to be 3' long. then the HDMI that will go from the TV to "OUT" and TV to Uverse, will be all Active.

agree with above, the 2.0 is just fine. FYI, Klipsch caps are 10% so the range is 1.8uf-2.2uf. if you are buying good after market caps, typically they will be 5% or even better 1%. a 5% 2.2uf is 2.09uf-2.31uf. (2.178uf-2.222uf for 1%) the only advice i would suggest, is replacing both and having them matched.