chitown2477

New or used? New definitely. Used, may be as well given condition. I would skip the sub if you can save money and buy a better one someplace else.

Changed my order to the A3-300. Just seemed like the thing to do for just another $200. Original plan was to buy another A2-300 next year. Now just have to find more good resources and setting up the A3-300 the right way with my Klipsch RF-52 5.1 system. Should be a good time making it work. Thanks for the input.

You all may have seen in another post of mine that I have the Klipsch Sub-10. I have the eD A2-300 on order. I am curious if anyone has experience using two subs together but different sub models. If so, how have you set these up together. I figure since I have the Sub-10 I might as well use it. I just don't want it to cause me to lose an overall sound quality. Also here is sort of a stretch question - I have the A2-300 on order but just go a small bonus form work and can now likely afford $200 more to go to the A3-300. Is this really worth the extra cost? The difference is a slightly bigger box, more excursion, and 100 more watts.

Correction - In the message above I stated the A3-350. I meant the A3-250 Thanks for the reply. After looking at the A2-300 specs, I think I'm going that route. It is goes just as deep as the A3-250 and has more cubic space. Even with less wattage (200 vs 300), I think it will meet my needs for years to come (haha - yeah I know). Seriously, I think I am going to be good with it. After looking at some details specs, I actually think there is not a significant difference between the A2-300 and the A3-300 - for the money.

I am looking to upgrade my subwoofer from the Klipsch Sub-10 I currently have. Reason for upgrade is the Sub-10 seems to get muddy or unresponisve during some serious LFE scenes in movies. Also it seems to be a bit weak for music, i.e hip-hop/R&B. I can't afford more than $450 and that is a stretch. Considering the eD A2-300 ($415) or even the A3-350 ($450) as both would have a lower frequency range - down to 18hz vs. 28hz for the Sub-10. I don't need something really expensive ($500 or more - even it I have the money) that will likely by turned only half way up or otherwise drown out my Klipsch Reference 52 line HT. . Can anyone tell me if they feel the A2-300 or A3-350 give me more than an incremental increase in performance? I know there is some subjectivity here but on paper the A2-300 or A3-350 look better. I am leaning toward the A2-300 bigger it is bigger (hey its a guy thing!).

Hello all, I currently have the RF-52 system for my 5.1 setup except for my sub (fronts are RF-52, center is RC-52, RS-42 surrounds, and Sub 10). I just purchased the Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH 7.1 receiver that is fantastic. I am looking to expand to a 7.1 system and would like help in selecting rear speakers. I am thinking about the RB-10s to keep the system all Klipsch. But it would be nice to save some cash as these speakers run about $270. Any suggestions for solid rears outside of the RB-10s that will go well with my current setup? Also, I have my surrounds immediately to the side of the seating position and about 5 1/2 feet high. The rears with be about 6 1/2 feet hight and behind the seating position by only 1 foot. This is due to my living room setup which opens up to a second room. Does this seem like it would be enough space in the rear to get good 7.1 sound? I have a thick curtain to divide the to cut down on light if I watch a movie during the day. Thanks in advance for you advice!

I have the RS-42's for surrounds on a 5.1 system and they soundgreat. My setup is similair to yours although yours is more wide open. The RS models a great for dispersing sound. Ideally they should be to the side of the listening position (the so called null-zone).They also are very forgiving for placement but if you place them exactly were you current surrounds are you will be fine. I think that RB's will be the best for rears in a 6.1 or 7.1 system. BTW - I would toe-in you fronts towards the center to create a better "sweet spot". You should also use teh pivot on teh RC-62 to angle it towards teh listening position. I did the same and I feel it makes a bitt difference, especially in an open room. I hope this helps. And nice house!

I have not found many stands that work well with center channel placement. However, I was able to build a stand that works well to hold my center channel above my TV. I constructed it out of 2'x6' stock and used brackets for extra stability especially on the top to prevent undue pressure on the TV. I also added felt on the base to protect the speaker. You may want to built a lip on the base in the front to prevent the speaker from sliding forward. Make sure to measure to fit your TV and it will work well and is VERY cheap to build. The stand height from top to bottom should be the same as the height of your TV from the floor to the top of the TV. The top base should be at the least the wide from front to back plus about 6-8 inches. The base on the floor should be at least 1/2 the width of the base to provide a good footing. Major assumptions: you want to mount the speaker above the TV and there is clearance underneath your existing TV stand to slide in the base of the support stand. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> My center channel speaker now looks like is floats above the TV and it is entirely supported by the stand. I painted it black to match my TV and TV stand. Because it is nearly unseen (behind the TV) it is very forgiving for flaws or imperfections. It can easily hold 100 pounds. See my crude drawing

Personally, I think you will have a great system. Don't worry about the RC-52 vs. the RC-62 as I don't think the 62's will overpower the 52's and the sound match will be fine. For the 40' run of speaker wire, make sure to use 14 gauge wire. If you have the Denon 2807, not the 2307, you have an excellent receiver. The 2307 is very good but he 2807 is even better.

I just purchase Klipsch speakers and ironically I was going to by EXACTLY what you detailed above. I would make the following recommendations:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Get the RF-52's instead of the RB-61's for your front left and right. It is about $150.00 more (MSRP) but much more in terms of output and will make a big difference. Plus the low-end frequencies will help you with you 10" sub. Your 10" sub may be fine, especially if it is by a reputable manufacturer. Keep it, play around with location, and go from there. I have an 8" DefTech sub that is amazing! The RS-42's are great speakers and VERY forgiving about placement. Either wall mounted or on stands you will be fine. I had mine as high as 7' off the ground and they were fine (I just lowered them). You can mount them about the fish tank as long as you use a solid mounting mechanism, e.g. anchors or directly into the stud. They only weigh about 10 pounds. This is more secure and most likely more aesthetically pleasing. I built the following speaker stands before with materials from Home Depot that were cut there for me for free: Use two 2"x4"x36" pieces for each stand as the riser. Use two 2"x7"x7" pieces as the upper and lower bases. Nail everything together, paint it what ever color you want, and you are done in about twe hours at a cost of about $30.00. Change the riser height at your discretion. However, the RS-42's are better at higher heights. OR go to Best Buy or Circuit and by stands for about $100.00 (get the ones on display for cheaper if you can). Either way it is pretty quick. The RC-52 is a good choice as well. Use the tilt mechanism on the speaker to angle it towards the listening position. You room size is fine even with the openings. I would worry more about sound reflections in the main listening area. I bought a few acoustic panels that I think really help. Make sure your speakers are focused on the mail listening area's "sweet spot". Make sure to adjust the speaker distance, size, ect through your receiver and you will get great sound from speakers that will last for 20 years. Again, get the RF-52's - for the cost difference and the fact you a buying a new system, it is well worth it. Hope this helps!

Companies do that all the time...hire someone with the exerience to better seed teh technology inhouse.

This weekend I will be replacing the speaker wires for my home theater system. The main reason is due to some being spliced as I ran out of speaker wire previously and some of the wire being lower gauge (12 gauge). Please let me know what you think of the following questions. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Does the speaker wire length have to be the same for each set of speakers? For example, should the speaker wire for the L/R fronts be about 10 each. I have heard this can influence evenness of sound which does not seem to make much sense given how fast the sound travels. The speaker wire runs will be about 30 feet for the L/R surrounds and 45 for the rear channel (they are mounted on the wall and I also run along the base of wall). I will use 14 gauge wire is this reasonable to provide clear sound but not create undue resistance? Since my L/R fronts are about 10 each, should I use a lower gauge wire or will 14 gauge make a huge difference? Any preferences for speaker wire? I really would like to use something cheaper than Monster but also fo good technical quality, e.g. something from Radio Shack or Acoustic Research. Thanks,

I have listened to HD via the XB360 and while the sound is good, I have to turn up the dail a bit more. I am curious if teh PS3 has the same issue.

The PS3 has HDMI 1.3 which means that it is already sending (decoding) out HD audio via HDMI only. Besides one or two HD and Blue-ray DVD players, it is one of the very few HDMI 1.3 consumer devices on the market right now. The receiver is not sending out true HD to your system, even if it has HDMI pass through. As damonrpayne wrote, hopefully there will be firmware updates to enable HDMI 1.1 and 1.2 receivers to pass through true HD audio. This will definitely make those of us with HDMI 1.1 and 1.2 receivers very happy as we will only have to get a DVD player that decodes HD audio to be sent to the receiver. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Even when HDMI 1.3 receivers come out, they will be expensive at first and it may be some time before there are even released.

Just curious as to why you think you cannot run wires? Looking at you picture it seem svery easy to do so with being seen much at all. The left surround next to teh doorway and the right surround opposite from it. That would give you a 5.1 system. Espcially if you use RS's for teh surrounds given their diffuse sound field.