HarryO
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Posts posted by HarryO
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I gotta agree 100% with you .It all depends on what you want from this table. Once I realized I could never go back to CDs (sounds strange, doesn't it?), I decided to get the last table I would ever need. It took time and money to come to that realization but once I did, I took the time I needed to piece together my main table.
IMO - There is HUGE improvement to be had going from a starter table like the Project to a $1500+ setup. VPIs are nice but they really get you with all the upgrades. You can buy a Scout for around $1600 but there are about $10K in available upgrades. If you can resist, it's a nice sounding table for under $2K.
If you want to keep it to under $500 or less, I think the best bang for the buck is a used Thorens TD160 or 165 (or similar belt drive table) with a decent $200 cart. I recommend buying a used cart from a reliable seller. It's like buying a used car, you can get way more for the money.
For the record, I've owned a Technics SL1800, a few different Thorens tables, a VPI, a Music Hall MMF5 (same as a Project) and currently have 3 tables in my 3 systems:
Basis 2001, Thorens TD124, Thorens TD145.
The Basis blows the rest away but it should for the cost. I bought it piece by piece (table/arm/cart) very patiently and was able to put it all together for a fraction of retail. I knew exactly what I wanted and got lucky finding demos and used components.
The TD145 is an inexpensive table with an inexpensive Shure M97E cart and I think it blows away the Technics I used to own. Others disagree but I've never heard a direct drive Technics I really thought sounded good.
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Nice speakers with a bit of "history and character" there
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NERD!
Not a bad thing
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I've seen a lot of changes in the few short years I've been here.
I think most of the changes have been in the sharing of info on mods, character of different caps, refinishing, etc.
It's gone far and above the old speaker placement standards, polarity, etc. There's a lot of knowledge to be gained just reading and advancing our systems through all that's available here.
On the "MAS" subject...well I guess I did learn a lot about room treatments from him. I guess it was worth all.
Nice guy but not what I'd call a "people person". For those that didn't have the pleasure to meet or talk with MAS...well, great guy. My only advice to him would be to "GET OUT AND MINGLE WITH HUMANS"
There was always a good arguement to be had with him.
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Your apology is a kind deed.
BTW, You're the *^#%_ that introduced me to MAS so "Bugger Off" LOL!
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Hope all is well my friend. You're not forgotten and my thoughts and prayers include you.
Harry
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Thanks guys.
I'm still looking for a good picture of the A/S system on this. I'm looking for a service manual also.
I've "rigged" a rude system for it that works very good as a temporary fix. I cut off a "spinnerbait" arm, filed off the burr from the cut, used a Thorens weight and floss. It's working well as it is but not right. I do have excellent tracking on it and ran a pattern on the scope. The cartridge is sitting in the groove well from start to finish at this point.
I tried 3 decent carts on it so far and the best match is the Ortifon OM 30 set at 1.80gms and 3 degrees negative on the arm heighth.
The table itself is a very good sounding table reminescent of the early AR "X" models. It still has an issue with the electronic cueing via solenoid. I found a groove in the stem that an "E" clip most likely sits in and I'll pull the solenoid lever off today and dampen the cueing stem with a light grease and install the "E" clip. Hopefully that will get the cueing fixed. I like the auto lift and shut off at the end of the record so I'll try to get it working properly instead of using it as a full manual table. I also see the possibility of a light spring on the solenoid "pivot seat" that activates the stem.
I doubt this table is worth the effort I'm putting in it but I've got a place for the table IF I can get all the bugs worked out to my satisfaction.
If you run into good pics or a service manual please let me know.
Thanks again to my friends lending a hand.
Harry
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I picked up the T-400s up for Tom from a friend.
I played them out and had to replace one tweeter diaphram in them.
The cabinets only have one small piece of sound material in each one. I recommended carpet pad to eleminate the reflections in the cabinets and also to brace the rear board (1/2" mdf).t
The cabinets are resonating, ports are huffing a little on them, but amazingly the caps still have a good bit of detail left in them.
I told Tom to throw some fibrefill in them to help with the port issues and keep the cabinet noise to a minimum. It should help with the bass in the taller T-400 cabinets.
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Four doctors are having a discussion. One is Israeli, one is
German, one is Russian and one is American.
The doctor from Israel says: "In Israel the medicine is so advanced
that we cut off a man's testicles; we put them into another man,
and in six weeks he is looking for work."
The German doctor comments: "That's nothing. In Germany we take
part of the brain out of a person; we put it into another person's
head, and in four weeks he is looking for work."
The Russian doctor says: "That's nothing either. In Russia we take
out half of the heart from a person; we put it into another
person's chest, and in two weeks he is looking for work."
The U.S. doctor answers immediately: "That's nothing my colleagues.
You are way behind us. In the USA we grabbed a person
with no brains, no heart, and no balls . . . we made him President
of the United States, and now the whole country is looking for work!!!"
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"The question with your arm is where the thread starts from -- is there something a loop could slide over, or could it have been permanently attached somewhere on the arm and been torn off?
A/S systems have various designs, but do the same thing. Some geometry is built in to exert a stronger outward force at the beginning of the record, and decrease as it moves inward. Here's the Basis Vector's design; in this case, the thread attaches to the underside of the rear extension of the arm, and would probably require a factory reattachment:"
I've had a lot of different tables with different anti skate systems and all I can figure out is I'm missing an loop or guide that attaches to the grommet on the base next to the arm.
It's a very good sounding table I'd like to keep as original as possible.
IF IF IF anyone comes across a pic to let me know how it feeds I'd be appreciative.
Harry
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Am I missing pieces or too simple of mind to figure out how to run the anti-skate system?
Ideas?
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I don't really know. I'm old fashioned with TTs and carts.
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The lower "hook" is stationary to the base
The Upper "L Guide" is attached to the arm and moves with the arm.
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The anti skate was missing. Here's some pics and maybe someone can make sense of the routing of the weight.
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Thank you Marty.
The anti-skating wire and counter weight are on the platter side of the tone arm.
It's weird and unless I'm missing a part on my anti-skate it makes no sense at all.
The pic is small btw.
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http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=181180
There's some pics on vinyl asylum I can't load. I belong to the site but haven't been able to log on in over a year. I've sent requests for help but they've fallen on deaf ears.
What I need is a clear shot of the anti-skate system on the KLH 60x table.
Anyone care to help out with the needed pics?
Thank you,
Harry
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Tonights "Special" is going to be a blend of Chicken Creole with a few personal throw ins making it a "Hobo" spicey casserole I like from time to time. It's a P.I.A. to make up and I usually make one hellova mess in the kitchen that takes longer to clean up than it does to scarf it down.
I'll have to cleanse my taste buds out with a couple of iced down 'neckers and settle in with a few laid back tunes for the evening.
This place is worse than going to the store on an empty stomach.
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I'll have to go with Canyonman at this point.
The AT440 is a great cart for the $.
I've had mine a couple of years now and I love it. Right out of the box it was a performer and took little break in time. The initial set up on it wasn't critical like a lot of carts I've used. It's very forgiving on "average" vinyl and it has a great sound stage to it.
I just picked up the Denon 160 about a month ago and it's not broken in yet. I think it's going to be a great cartridge when it loosens up a bit more. The initial "hollow' sound disipated quick on it and it's getting better the more I use it.
I'm running a Thorens TD 125 early Swiss table with SME 3009 II unmodded with Grace Ruby as my #1 system and comparing other carts to it is tough. I'm running this through a PS Audio PS III rebuilt and upgraded by PS Audio through a custom built McAlister PL series preamp. IF there's an issue this system shows it immediately.
Inexpensive carts I've liked are the Grado Black standard at $55 but I can't recommend them on the Technics tables. There's a hum factor talked about a lot on forums with this combo and I ran into it on a 1200mkII recently for the first time. It's the only time I've had the hum issue on my favorite "cheapie" cartridge but I guess the talk is for real on it in certain circumstances.
Now for the Shure M97. It does work well on the Technics tables. I've got one on an old Sl-1400 and sounds very good on it. Good cart for the money imho.
I bought the Shure to use on a beautiful AR XA as system #2 but it wasn't a good match and after a couple of stints in different tables it made it to the SL-1400 and that's where it's going to stay as it does match well WITHOUT an external phono preamp.
Just my impressions.
Congratulations to Marvel!
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Wishing you all the best.