DavidF

Every change in impedance in one position in the circuit will ripple throughout the circuit to some degree, large or small. It becomes really difficult to assume inserting components into a circuit tuned to one set of variables won't significantly alter the intended effect of the total circuit.

Agree that if you are using the pre-amp in passive mode that your volume control gain setting will likely be in the high range even with high-sensitivity speakers. That does not sound out of line. If you are using the tube active stage (+12dB) then yes, it seems a little strange to have the volume control that high up in range. But, as already mentioned, the system gain may just need to ride high on some tracks and not so much on others.

Are you saying you have a Heresy system but lacking a tweeter? And you need to find a replacement? I would still use (or find) a k-76 tweeter. This keeps the overall spectrum balanced in the speaker system. I think that the K-76 is easier to locate, as well. Good idea to match the tonal characteristics of the R-L-Center, though, if you have titanium drivers in the Chorus.

If they sound best on their sides, then that is what works. Don't discount a vertically oriented horn, though, just because the coverage in narrower in the horizontal plane in that position. The narrower coverage pattern can often integrate better with the woofer's narrowing coverage pattern that enhances imaging, even off center.

A jump ahead to the conclusion may be that the smaller format Forte just works best in the room. A long time ago I heard the JBL L300 in both a smallish living room and again in a large room not long after. At that time and with that speaker model, the larger room made a big difference (for the better) in the cohesion of the sound and soundstage around the speakers. Listening distance was several feet further away. Ditto for the distance to room boundaries around the systems.

Something like the massive car front end bras that were big a number of years back. Maybe it holds some value if you sell the car someday but every other day all you see is a big black blanket on the car. But, on point, It might make sense to have glass tops in the closet to pull out when entertaining or you have young ones in the house. Otherwise, why spoil the appearance of the natural wood?

Ha! Yes, a pocket protector...and I'll go with a pencil sharpener.

Know what you mean. Always fascinating when some random snippet on social media can trigger long-dormant memories.

Get some unsalted shelled walnuts at the grocery store. Fresh nuts have a certain amount of oil in them you want on those scratches. Literally rub the nut into the scratch areas in all directions. It will crumble a bit and make a mess. Wait a few minutes then rub out the area with a clean cloth. This is about as cheap and easy solution as you get. It won't remove the scratches but will greatly disguise them.

Personally, I would have no issue deviating from spec as you mention. There is always a a fair amount of variation in component specs. Sometimes they average out if you replace with a lower value, but not always. Capacitance meters are not that expensive if you want to go that route. Remember, you will need to scrape off the wire varnish if you reduce coiled wire in a higher value piece.

Very nice, for sure. Some like all black finishes but for me the exposed wood grain finish is the only way to go.

So, some comment on the pop report. That does not sound like an issue related to the caps in your xover. It is more likely that you are bottoming one or the other woofer coils at the very high sound levels you mention. If this is the case, then there is no quick remedy for that other than backing off the drive power. Are you using equalization of any kind to boost the bass response? Check on the passives in the back to make sure they are in good shape and not leaking air.

The crossover topology for the III has some significant differences from the I that may be of interest if you drive the speakers to high sound levels on occasion. The III crossover may be more effective than the I in dealing with high power to the drivers.

The foam is there to suppress some of the sound energy bouncing around in the enclosure. As sound waves pass through foam, fiberglass or similar, some of that energy is converted to heat from the friction of passing through the fibers/cells. The amount of foam or enclosure stuffing is always a balance in what you are trying to achieve. Here the amount of foam is relatively small and therefore targets mid range frequencies that could set up standing waves. Using a large amount of stuffing in a sealed enclosure may act in a way that allows the woofer to "see" a larger enclosure. But this also changes the Q of the speaker considerably so some amount of thought should be given in how you are affecting the enclosure and woofer as a system. Personally, I do not care for the sound of highly-stuffed enclosures. Too much constriction in dynamics. I have tried this on limited occasions so experiences may vary.

Just to be clear, you purchased the equipment direct from Klipsch? Not a dealer?