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Posts posted by TNRabbit

  1. Yes, the sides also (reflection points).

    So if I go this route.... do the back wall and the sides, so how far forward of speaker and how far above?


    What you can do..........is sit in the sweet spot and have someone run a mirror along the side walls at the same height as the tweeters. When you can see the reflection of one of the speakers, that is a reflection point and an absorption panel would be placed there. There will be two reflection points on each side wall.

    There are actually similar ones on the floor & ceiling as well....

  2. Like this, Gary? http://www.equitech.com/ Putting that into my house, at least, seemed to be quite an undertaking, and I chose not to do it.

    Richard, it might be that tracking down a specific problem is the best approach, and one easy method is to use a cheater plug on one or more components as needed to solve the problem. I had two monobloc SS amplifiers, one of which hummed very loudly no matter what I did to the house wiring. It was taken care of by floating one amp's power cord at the receptacle -- as recommended by the amp manufacturer.

    In that case, a ground loop may have been formed somehow by the combination of separate monobloc power cords and the parallel interconnect grounding to the amps. As TNR said, it seems to be rare, as I've never experienced it except in that case. However, I have had to use a "Magic Splitter" to defeat hum/buzz when trying to hook cable TV plus an outside antenna to both my TV and my audio system.

    Not exactly what I was talking about...I was referring to getting ground issues from down the power line (neighbors) due to not having your grounding rod connected securely. Also. connections within your power box can lose contact over time.

    HOWEVER, PS Audio makes a Power Station that is REALLY good...

  3. You can get ground hum issues from your NEIGHBOR if there is over a certain amount of resistance in your ground. Make sure your ground wire outside your electrical box is bolted firmly to the rebar rod in the ground (which should be at least 6 feet). Also, it never hurts to check any grounding screws in the electrical box periodically. Heating/cooling over time causes bad contacts.

  4. Obviously, it doesn't know the words~! [:|]

    Seriously, this is not an uncommon problem. Many times it can be traced to poor ground or other connections within the amp, power cord or interconnects. The drivers vibrate the H#!! out of these devices & stuff can & does come loose. I'd go through all connectors including internal & check solder points where easily possible. That's the easiest FIRST thing to do. If nothing there, it may require service.

  5. no need; if you read the directions, I'm pretty certain you'll find it sums everything into one channel anyway. Usually, the right channel is the one you use if you only have one input...but like I said, they all sum it into one channel anyway.

  6. I'm going to add my frustration with a couple of issues I had with Klipsch speakers over the years.

    I purchased a pair of KLF-10s brand new in a military BX overseas in 1998 & they arrived with one of the woofers wired out of phase. It took me nearly 6 months to figure this out.

    I purchased an entire RF-83 5.1 system almost 2 years ago and encountered the same issue, albeit there was ALSO one of the woofers completely unplugged inside. This sounds a lot like a QA issue with Klipsch's internal wiring.

    Also, I agree that there is a LOT of plastic in the new Klipsch line. As long as they sound good & the plastic is of good quality, I don't have an issue with it. However, when they make the entire front of the speaker connected to the horn driver so you have to disassemble the entire front to take out the horn.

    Also, the tabs holding my RT12d grill on broke during normal use....

    THAT SAID....I notificed Klipsch & they have a new horn & grill shipped within 24 hrs!

  7. A local friend has the biggest collection of electrostats that you can imagine. He has a pair of Carvers stats that just sound awesome. I think they have a woofer on the bottom of the cabinet if I remember correctly. Very nice. He aslo has a little Carver subwoofer that looks like the prototype for the JL Audio Fathon. it is a little cube that juts puts out tone of bass.

    FYI: Carver Amazing Loudspeakers (ALs) are "ribbons", not electrostatics. The ones with the downward-firing 10" woofer are the AL-III iteration (last ones made by Carver). I have a pair; they have a bleached-oak finish (custom).

    Posted Image

    You're right about the Sunfire subs; they were the first "micro" subs made...he sorta broke the mold with those. Pound for pound, probably one of the strongest outputs in the business. Not the best by any means, but they are pretty good, and you can run multiple subs out of sight.

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