Iknownothing16

I own an rw-10d sub and recently it has started turning itself off while audio is playing. The screen will still light up, but the sub just intermittently cuts out, and then comes back later. Increasing the volume to very high levels makes it come back on most of the time. It also has started humming sometimes at random when the amp is off. It's humming is loud enough that it will wake me up at night (it's in the bedroom). Any ideas as to what the problem may be? I have been looking on the forum to see if others have had a similar issue but I haven't seen anything.

Also, another question (maybe I should post a new topic) but yeah basically: I sometimes go several days without using my promedia speakers so I often turn them off when not in use. Is this bad for them?

Thanks for the advice. I totally agree, and I am very careful with my speakers (thus the half volume limit). I would buy bookshelf speakers and a reciever except I'm a college kid with no money, and a $150 dollar computer speaker system is a lot less than a $350 dollar ish stereo system ($100 for reciever, $250 for speakers) not to mention that I got the ProMedia set as a gift.

I searched for a post on this but couldn't find one, but if there is one and someone knows about it just refer me to that. I have a ProMedia 2.1 set, and I've never turned it past half volume (with my pc output also being at slightly less than half volume). Does anyone know how much they can take? I'd like to know before I break them on accident. Obviously if I hear distortion I should turn them down, but sometimes distortion is hard to hear in the ultra-low frequencies, at least for me, especially if the mid and high frequencies are completely fine. How can I tell when its overheating or breaking the components? And do these things break when they are turned to their max volume? Thanks for any input.

Hi all. I currently have a quintet center serving as the center in my home theater. It is greatly inferior to the SP-1 mains and hopefully I will be able to upgrade it soon, but I don't know whether to upgrade to the SC-1 or the C-2 center. The advantages of the C-2 are its new and comes with a new warranty, and I don't have to worry about it being damaged in some way by the first user. However, the SC-1 on the other hand has greater range and is cheaper. Both offer similar sensitivity and power handling. So my question is, which would you guys go with and why? Also, does the SC-1 "match" better just because it was designed to or would I know really notice much of a difference of sound between the C-2 and SC-1 (other than possibly deeper bass in SC-1, mostly concerned with clarity, lifelikeness, matching the other speakers)?

Thank you for all the help! I'll post a picture when its finished along with how it turned out.

So any other suggestions on books or software? I tried using WinISD but it was kinda confusing for someone who doesn't know what all the acronyms mean and stuff.Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Thanks for the info guys! I will probably buy that book. I read that it is not the most beginner friendly is that true? But I'm not a complete beginner since I have some knowledge about how speakers work and what makes a good one so it may not be a problem for me.Thanks again for the suggestions. Any suggestions on a more beginner friendly book if its true that Loudspeaker Design Cookbook is more for the intermediate and above level?

Hi Klipsch Forum members. I'm looking for resources on how to learn more about speaker building, so if you could recommend books, software, whatever that would be great. I've read stuff online but so far its either over my head or to basic to apply to speaker building, or it only tells you how to build a cabinet for one situation, instead of to design cabinets. When I say building, I mean cabinet construction, but you probably already knew that. I know a lot of it is just personal preference or situation but I need help to get started and was looking for some referrals on where to get information and what software is best for design (that isn't too expensive, preferably under $50 dollars, or free ). My first project will be a car subwoofer to put into the back. I would like some recommendations on: whether this is a good first undertaking, and on how I should go about getting started. My thinking for a car sub being a good first was: if its sealed, hopefully cabinet construction won't be do difficult. If it's ported, shouldn't be to difficult either. Only one driver to mess with, and no crossover or anything like that. If it doesn't turn out that amazing, its in a car, which doesn't have the world's best speakers in it to begin with. And I could always rebuild (or recheck) the cabinet till I get it right. I want to build my sub for under $60 dollars (without amp). So I'm trying to use the partsexpress clearance sales to get a good but cheap 8" or 10" driver. Any recommendations for a cheap but decent 8" or 10" driver would be great. I'm looking for frequency response to go down to about 30 Hz, but I'll settle for 35 or 40 Hz if need be. Lower of course is better. I'd like the highest sensitivity possible for a small cabinet with a decent driver so I don't have to have as much amp power. I want the speaker to be able to take about 100 to 150 watts RMS. The main goals of this project are: fits in my car without to much a fuss (I'll get approximate measurements up, but I'd like to do this myself yet have a help resource at the same time so measurements aren't that important), goes down to about 35Hz, fills the car with clean yet powerful bass, is under $60 dollars without amp (the cheaper the better), and isn't to difficult to construct. Are these goals too lofty or too low or about right? Thanks in Advance!

Thanks, and btw the other post says two 4 inch or one 6 inch, so you don't need to go lookin' that up.

Anybody?

So with two ports that'll do it correct? Also, should I put dampening or filling in the cabinet and if so how much? The cabinet design on Parts Express said minimal filling but I'm not sure what that means exactly. There are vents on the back of the JBL driver that say "Do Not Block" so if I do put filling in how do I not block them? Thanks.

Did I say single 4 inch port? sorry I went double. There will be two of them. I believe that should tune it to 40 Hz if the information from the other post I had was correct. Thanks for the help.

Hey guys I posted a question earlier concerning speakers that I was replacing the woofers in and was given several suggestions and thanks to some good help from people here and I decided to purchase a pair of JBL 2260Hs. The cabinet I have for them (they're in seperate cabinets) has approximately 8 to 9 ft cubed of space (9 more on the nine side without subtracting the volume of the horns). I was told that in order to tune my cabinet to 40 Hz I would need to 4 inch wide and 2 inch deep circular ports. The question I have is does it matter where the ports are? My original plan was to put them on the bottom on either side of the JBL but they will not fit there so I was wondering if I could place them on the top on either side of the tweeter or on the bottom on the side of the cabinet. Also, currently the cabinet only has one 3 inch port and I'm wondering if using the speaker will hurt the JBL in any way. Thanks.

Though I agree that the SC-1 would do better than the Quintet center the Quintet center still handles 300 watts peak, not 200, and 75 watts long term, so for the $250 it's a really good deal if it works. I'll have to test it this weekend (or next if I can't find the time) and tell you how (or if) it works out. Thanks for all the advice.