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About Satyr

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  1. I have a K-22-EF, black, square, exactly as you've described. Still looking?
  2. I'm in San Jose, California. I found a pair of K-22-EF in perfect condition for $150 the pair. I'm still needing (or wanting so bad I can't tell the difference!!!) the five K-77-M tweets preferebly with the round medallions on the back. Any ideas?
  3. Any leads anyone? If you have any, I'm looking to buy. Thanks!
  4. Hi, I have a single Heresy which I'm wanting to sell. The innards: K-77, K-52-H, K-22-K, E-2. The cabinet is laquered birch with butt joints so you can see the plys. There are no severe scratches, but at some corners the veneer has worn off and into the 1st ply. The (a) prior owner has re-laquered after this wear because it's all shiney and glossy where this wear is. The speaker works fine, no damages to the woofer cone. The grill could use some tightening up, but has no gashes or rips. There is one small spot on the grill which is beginning to de-fray. It's about the size of a nickel, but you have to look for it before it is noticeable. I have pictures of all angles and close-ups, as well as the insides. I'm in California and I could ship. I'd pack it right so no worry there. Let's say for the speaker and shipping together for $240 Here's my cell #408-307-5096 I hope this will work for you!
  5. I've found a pair of Heresys rather inexpensive but am wondering how they'd compare with my existing pair. The pair in question has K-77-M, K-53-H, K-22-E and the crossover is a TYPE E2. My existing pair has K-77-M, K-55-V, K-22-E, and Type E. The difference in the mid drivers and network: how does this translate in sound and what is the difference in the mid driver?
  6. I just saw last week on ebay some K-55-M drivers with two phase soldered plugs and listed as new/unused. They were going for $200 each at a "buy-it-now" price and the seller had nine of them. I had considered buying them, but after reading up here on forums I concluded that the dent in my wallet would weigh more on my mind and distract me from any marginal increased listening pleasures. Bottom line: finding them is hit and miss with private sellers. Good luck.
  7. Thanks guys, Now I have a direction to go on this.
  8. The old K-55-V, the lugs have broken clean off and there's no where to attach wires. The old owner had them for a long long time and he didn't know when/how that happened. Suffice to say I got the speaker for $15. Sound does come out fine from both the tweet and woof, no tears or any damage to the woof cone I can see of. So that's why I was asking about K-55-V or K-55-M. The tweeter is a K-77-M. Again, would a K-55-M require making changes to the network?
  9. In rebuilding an old set of Heresys (H-700s), the current mids are done for so they'll need to be replaced. The tweeters are K-77-M, the old mids were K-55-V. This speaker has a Type E network. My question is two part: Should I put in a K-55-V so it will all be as before, or will a K-55-M be the nicer option and if so do I need to make any changes to the network? Minimal opinions, maximum facts please.
  10. djk, thanks for the the sugesstions. I'll incorporate them for a future speaker build project. Then leaving the cabinet and innards as is for now: to port or not to port, that is the question. Cause now, that clumsy taped over port I found has me up at night.
  11. When I bought my motorcycle late 2005, the seller gave me--for free--an Infocus LP1000B projector with no lamp or remote. I looked online for lamps for this projector and they cost about $600 and the remote about $80. So I wondered what the projector was worth from places like Overstocks and other third party sellers. Routine asking price is $11,000 to $12,000 !!!! So I ordered up a new lamp and a remote fast. Even though I'm limited to a 4:3 aspect ratio and no HiDef ability, I figure I'd have something pretty sweet for TV, DVD, Xbox, and computer. The projector can throw up to 200' distance, but I'm going to play it onto a 6' wide screen at a distance of about 15'. Fast forward to present day and I'm finally getting around to setting up the sound. I have four Klipsch Heresy H-700s all with newly rebuilt Type E crossovers, with K-22-E/K-55-V/K-77-M low/mid/high. So I have the four corners set up, but needed a center channel and the "point one" subwoofer. I was considering another Heresy H-700 for the center channel but the only one I saw on ebay sold before I could have at it. I opted for something which may or may not work well with the H-700s: a Klipsch SC-1 center channel and a Klipsch KSW-12 sub. To run all this I found a brand new Onkyo TX-SR503 for $150 which is a 7.1 source but I can always add the side channels later. The seller of the Onkyo was unloading it because he was told that there was some HiDef capabilities lacking: something about component HiDef versus source HiDef? That is, if I recall correctly what he said. Any enlightenment on this? But mainly it's my speaker group that I'm wondering about--will they all get along and behave? Of lesser concern, I'm wondering about the Onkyo and HiDef (component verses source); however, since the projector doesn't take HiDef (and the war isn't over as to HiDef format, or is that for DVD? See how ignorant I am) should I not wonder but just be dumb and happy until I break ground into HiDef and deal with needed equip then. So really it's my speaker set that has me asking the group at large here for thoughts and coments. I'm definitely wanting to hold onto the H-700s. I can always unload the SC-1 if need be as well as the KSW-12.
  12. Colterphoto, My cabinet enclosure is the ported slant monitor. I noticed that inside the the cabinet, a past owner has put electrical tape over the port openings. If the ports are to be closed off this is the wrong way to do it don't you think? But, to port or not to port, that is the question. If non-porting is advised, then I'd put in a solid plug. Yet I assume that the port fully open is preferred? Your sage advice? Just to clairfy though on the innards: HIE network, with the low/mid/high as K42/K55V/K77 Not to be tedious, but what if a rectangular cabinet were built--same size as common Heresys--and do a full organ transplant. Would that increase the base response? And bring along the ports too, or not? Or should I just replace the caps, leave the innards alone in the slants, deal with the ports as per your advice, and let sleeping dogs lay?
  13. Yes the K-42 I have are in a triangluar ported cabinet with the port on one triangular end, but has some stiff foam stuffed in the port, should I remove that or leave it? When you say "HSM (slant monitor)" isn't that also a triangular cabinet? Are you saying that there are two sizes of triangular cabinets, the HIP ported and the smaller HSM non-ported? My HIP have feet on two sides: for upright position and to lay down for use as a monitor. If my triangular cabinet limits the bass response, what are your thoughts if I built rectangular cabinets, sized like all other Heresys, and changed over to the square rectangular cabinets? I assume I keep the HIE networks (but with refreshed caps) because of the K-42s?
  14. I also have a pair of H-700s I bought in 1979. They differ a little from what John states in describing West's posting (that is: I believe it's West's H-700s that John is referring to). Here's how mine came from the dealer: K-77-M tweets (not the K-77) with soldered lugs. K-55-V squawk drivers with soldered lugs (not the spring loaded). K-22-E woofs with soldered lugs. Type E network, two 2uf caps, one inductor, and the auto-transformer. Standard rectangular box housing in birch plywood. I've not touched this network since day one, so it's time to put in new caps. Maybe a network upgrade as per John's schematic? I just came across a second pair of Heresys with a different setup: K-77 tweets. K-55-V squawks with spring loaded terminals. K-42 woofs with spring loaded terminals. Type HIE network, four caps (two 2uf and two 4uf), one each 2.5mH and 245uH inductors, two Zener diodes, and the auto-transformer. Triangular housing for corner placement or laying on side as a monitor. Michael Colter of Klipsch Tech Support says that the smaller triangular housing severely limits the bass response. I feel as if I almost have two different speakers with different woofs, different networks, different housings, slightly different tweets, and the different lugs. Oh what to do, so many options, so many paths to follow. Here's more to consider (confuse?): I read about K-55-M squawk drivers and how they are better matched with K-77-M tweets (remember I have K-55-V in my H-700s). Any thoughts there? The K-42 woofs have a much beefier magnet. Maybe they are better for the triangular housings? Any thoughts on how they compare with the K-22-E? Dang a guy could go nuts with all the mix and match options. Anyway, I appreciate the comments and advice. More to think and obsess about. I'm about to recieve a thrid pair of Heresys. I'm curious what I'll find inside those!
  15. Thanks Guys for the comments and info--all good. I'm definitely changing out the caps. Having not only heard enough "chatter" about changing old caps in the forums at large, a Klipsch tech email said old caps develop resistance over time and therefore reduce high frequency output. Anyway, if I don't change the caps then the one which has popped off its mounting tab, as the spot welds have failed, would have to be glued down (or build a contraption of a strap/bracket to mechanically hold it in place) or better yet (you'll love this): let the woofer magnet hold it like it was all this time?
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