WVPaul
-
Posts
29 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by WVPaul
-
-
The hum is gone but, cables, equipment are all pulled out, so as I put everything back hopefully it stays away.
There were 2 issues, 1st the amps and crossover are about 8 ft away, if I installed the crossover at the receiver no hum if I placed it in the rack hum returned, the isolation transformer was able to remove this issue.
2nd issue is the subwoofer issue, my plan initially was to pull 100hz and below off the center and cross that over to the sub, and sum it with the sub signal. I thought this was possible, but my sub (SVS 20-39 pc Plus, 10 years old) which does not have LFE, just line in / out, and speaker in / out, does not like it, or its not possible, or I'm doing it wrong. I hooked AVR sub out to left line in, and the center 100hz or below to the right.
So it seems everthing is going to work, I'm still trying to figure how to send the center speaker "Low" from the crossover to the sub. What is the best way to sum subwoofer signals?
-
I don't understand the question. Is your concern the power or signal connection(s)?
Signal connection, the Onkyo 1008 has two sub outs, I was trying to narrow it down to the Rcvr or the sub. Both sub outs make a hum, so I was wondering what electrically seperates the two sub outs, if anything.
I won't be able to get anything done tonight the wife's watching the tube, and she don't like me fartin around when she's watching.
-
I won't be able to try this till tomorrow, but there are a lot of articles about when going from pre-out RCA to XLR, the results can be a hum
I must have got lucky, that's exactly what I did RCA pre-out on HTR to XLR to EV-DX and no hum. It's not a fancy wire just regular Monoprice stuff.
I think I misspoke, there weren't a lot of articles, there were a few articles. Just wanted to set that straight.
-
I think I figured it out, after snipping pin 1 on the XLR, it made no difference. I pulled all cables and figured I would start putting everything back together one at a time. When running the subwoofer cable, it returned not to mention it scared the crap out of me. Never install a subwoofer cable with the sub on. I tried a second cable and it still returned. I have another sub I need to bring up from the basement and see if that works. Question - with 2 subwoofer outputs is there any difference in their electrical connection.
-
The EBtech box has transformers in it. It might add some distortion. I would see if the hum can be reduced by other means first. Chasing hum can be an arduous task, but let's get started anyway:
With all controls set to the "normal" listening settings, turn off the power amps and let them discharge for a bit. Disconnect the audio cables between the Onkyo and the dBX. Turn the power amps back on. Is the hum still there?
Hum is gone, after removing audio cables from the back of the Onkyo.
-
The EBtech box has transformers in it. It might add some distortion. I would see if the hum can be reduced by other means first. Chasing hum can be an arduous task, but let's get started anyway:
With all controls set to the "normal" listening settings, turn off the power amps and let them discharge for a bit. Disconnect the audio cables between the Onkyo and the dBX. Turn the power amps back on. Is the hum still there?
I won't be able to try this till tomorrow, but there are a lot of articles about when going from pre-out RCA to XLR, the results can be a hum. Rane has a whole page, describing ways to fix it, snipping lead 1 wire, isolation xfmr (Ranes version is balance buddy 44 and 22, Jensen transformers).
I will try your suggestions above, since that costs nothing. Next, I was going to try snipping the wire and see if that fixes it, (I have a spare one).
Thanks.
-
I don't use an external DAC in front of the Yamaha processor. The SPDIF from the CD player or DVD player gets converted to AES3. The AES3 signal goes into the Yamaha processor. All processing is in the digital domain until the DACs at the Yamaha outputs. This way there is only one A/D or D/A conversion in the signal path.
If we use a DSP processor with analog inputs the signal path is:
CD (dig) >> D/A >> processor input >> A/D >> DSP processing >> D/A >> power amps
A total of 3 A/D or D/A conversions. This is why I recommended the OP get a processor with a digital input *if his sources are digital*.
Most of my source is HDMI uncompressed digital (Blu ray).
-
Got the crossover hooked up, cables re-run, just wanted to do a quick check make sure everything was correct. Turned on and got that beautiful sounding ground hum. Did a quick search on Klipsch forums and found out this will happen when switching from RCA > XLR.
The signal flow is Onkyo 1008 pre-out RCA > to DBX equalizer XLR > to Ashly XR-1001 crossover XLR > Amp XLR > banana plug into speaker.
One recommendations was this > http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/HumXLR/
I guess install this before the DBX equalizer.
I don't mind spending the money if this will fix the problem.
Just looking for any thoughts, thank you.
edit: I also read snipping lead 1wire at the XLR connection might fix this issue, but might drop signal level also
-
WVPaul,
I haven't read any manuals recently but when I was shopping for processors I read a ton. Most all of them use off the shelf A/D and D/A converter chips with high oversampling and then well known off the shelf DSP chips (such as Motorola) for all the fancy digital features. For A/D and D/A 24 bit 48Khz was par for the course. Totally adequate. There are higher resolution A/Ds. Not sure if you can hear it.
I was just curious, specially since I would be passing Bluray audio. What I gathered is the cost is extremely high for the signal processor. Its hard too believe Behringer is able to do it so cheap. The ones I looked at on the internet started around $4000. Anyways, thanks, I will revisit processors when I'm ready to upgrade.
I appreciate everyones input.
-
Dtel, Can you reply about when turning on and off does it pop or thump, this is one reason I passed on Parasound, but I never found any comments about it on the Crown. Till now.
Sorry I didn't see this, yes they do thump a little, one almost always and the other on occasion and only in the bass bins and it's not loud at all, not enough for me to worry at all.
Anyway I usually leave them on, at less than 15 watts idle it's not a big deal especially when they are working 6-8 hours a day.
Thanks about the thumping, I will see how bad mine is after I get it, some comments stated its noticeable, some stated no thump, but I guess you can remedy it with a cap or a time delay switch without too much effort.
-
Thanks, I will stay with what I have, (still waiting for all the parts and pieces to show up), and see how it goes and if I decide to tri amp I will probably revisit the processor upgrade.
I would like to ask this question again. Why would you go with a unit of a sampling rate of 24 / 48 khz? If I recall correctly both the EV and the Ashly are only 24/48, are there very few 24 /96's or is it not important?
-
What is your budget for a processor? If you think that this active stuff is going to be "for you", then I would consider a digital unit such as the ones I mention (there are other really good ones as well), and one that has plenty of I/O (channels). if you think you are only going to do the center channel, an analog 2 or 3 Ch. unit just might do it for you. You would get the benefits of the bi or tri amping, but no time alignment. I'm not so sure how important time alignment is for the application of just your center channel. But the message is that a nice digital processor goes a long way if you are considering expanding.........or if you have a really nice sounding system already. You would be happy you made the investment.
I'm thinking that you probably already have a really nice sounding system, and so the primary goal is to not degrade it. That might sound weird at first, but it doesn't automatically sound better just because you bi-amp. You'll be introducing a few new components so you'll want to choose carefully. Trust me on the processor info.
Right now I'm going to use an Ashly XR1001, which is the analog crossover. I looked at (through the internet not in person) the EV dx-38, and the Ashly Protea, and that may be something in the future for me. The problem I see is my lack of knowledge on setting these up. I would be more concerned on screwing the signal way up and not liking my setup. If I did want to try one, at first, I would probably stay cheap and go with the Behringer DCX 2496. Then my concern would be did I go too cheap, and thats why my sound doesn't sound right. I've read a lot of reviews where they set up their analog crossovers by hearing.
Are they hard to setup and can you really screw up the sound quality? Also, I might be missing something here because of my lack of knowledge, but why would you go with a unit of a sampling rate of 24 / 48 khz?
-
In response to Mark1101 on 04-02-2012 12:21 PM :
First, I use my system 99% of the time for home theater. I'm using an emotiva XPA-5 for Backs, and Sides, for those it works great, I'm using an XPA-2 for my fronts, it also works great. I am extremely happy with my Emotiva investment and would not change it out. But the center is the speaker I am bi-amping, I only need around 15 watts for tweeter and around 30 watts for midrange and 150 watts for the woofers. Due to yours' and 1504-5 recommendations on page 1 about using amps with gain control. I decided to add an adjustable amp for this bi-amp. My problem was there are not alot of amps rated in the lower wattages, I looked at QSC but the lowest settings were still too high, I looked at Parasound, but not a whole lot of users bi amping with Parasound, after dtel recommended the Crown I did alot of research towards that, there are a quite a few people that have used the Crown for bi amping and seem to recommend it. It seems they like it alot for woofers due to its high damping factor, but there are no complaints about high / mid usage either.
My main focus is on bringing out the dialogue. If you have a recommendation for an amplifier for a center bi amp, with a future upgrade to tri amp please let me know. I'm completely open for any suggestions.
Thanks for all comments and recommendations.
-
Found this info about the D-75a. I stopped reading at this point:
Ok, in regards to this Crown D-75A I'm getting, I have been told by David Glass at Crown that this amp does indeed put out a thump durring turn-on/off.
This is bad news, especially in an active system. If you decide to use the Thumper-75a, you might want to look at the suggestions in the thread.
http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/76910/758898.aspxDtel, Can you reply about when turning on and off does it pop or thump, this is one reason I passed on Parasound, but I never found any comments about it on the Crown. Till now.
-
I'm 90% sure I'm going for the Crown d-75a. Thanks.
Does it put out enough power for the intended purpose? 40 watts rated @ 1kHz may be as low as 32 watts from 20Hz-20kHz. What speakers are you driving?
I am initially biamping a Klipsch center speaker, it is a KLF-20 / KLF-C7 modified speaker with titanium tweeters and midrange, I'll be using the Crown bridged 110 watts for the high/mids with passive crossover in place, I will be using an Emotiva UPA-1 for the woofer no passive crossover, direct connect. Eventually, I will remove the high/mids crossover, I will run the tweeter of one side of the Crown and the midrange off the the other side of the Crown, and leave the woofer as is. So power wise I believe the Crown should be plenty.
-
I'm 90% sure I'm going for the Crown d-75a. Thanks.
-
Right now I am looking at Parasound 275 or the Crown D-75a, prices are comparable. Any thoughts? Dtel I now you are using these for bi amping, are you happy with them? Is there anything you don't like?
I am using Emotiva equipment right now, XPA-5, and UPA-1, but the UPA-1 doesn't have gain control so the center speaker which will be bi amped would be using the Parasound or Crown, everthing else will run off the Emotiva equipment.
-
Sorry I thought I was done, but after much researching I have another question. Is there any real difference between the home audio amps, (Parasound, Emotiva, Outlaw) and I think they call them DJ amps (Crown, QSC, Behringer, Samson, Peavey). These would be used for bi-amp, and future tri-amp Home theater setup.
Thanks
-
Eventhough the 45 watts would be fine, I'm a little concerned about the build, some have commented on the switch quality and some of the internal components. Its also part of the z product line. Jumping up to the classic product line would be model 275, a little better build and reviews seem to be more on par with a Parasound product. Its also 21 lbs. vs 7 lbs. for the Zamp v.3.
So would it make sense to use the Parasound 275 for biamping. And in the future if I decided to tri amp use the Parasound 275 for tweeter midrange and Emotiva UPA-1 for woofer. Any thoughts? Thanks.
-
I looked at that EV-DX 38, for me right now that is much more than I need, but it does look like a sweet piece of electronics.
I was concerned about using 200 watts on the tweeter and midrange (UPA-1's), thats why originally looked at a 75 watt x 2 (Parasound 275). I also made a mistake, Parasound DO have level controls. Any thoughts on using a Parasound 275 or the smaller Parasound Zamp v.3 (45 watts x 2), for tweeter, midranges.
Any concerns going from the AVR RCA connections to crossover XLR connections to Parasound amp RCA connections.
-
The funny thing is I thought manufactures got rid of amp gain controls, I looked at 3 manufactures - Emotiva, Outlaw, and Parasound classic and none of them have it. So to tell you the truth I figured it would all be handled internally or through the pre/pro.
As far as XLR connectors aren't balanced, are you saying all XLR's or Emotiva's, I've never heard a comment "Hey have you heard XLR connectors aren't balanced." But I've never searched for that either.
I will read the article, thank you, I will probably go to a tri amp directly hooked to the speakers (a true active system), but I'm going to start with the basic setup first and build up to the direct connect. I switched out my tweeter diaphragms to the titanium yesterday, before reinstalling them I ohmed them out they measured 8 ohms, which means I should be able to hook them straight to the amp without any concerns. I still have to do the mids.
-
Thanks for all replies, after many reviews, I decided to go with Ashly XR1001, crossovered to (2) UPA-1's.
Initially I'm setting this as a basic setup, 1.) splilt signal send LF to UPA-1, send HF\MF to UPA-1. 2.) send the UPA-1 outputs to speaker LF and HF connections with internal Crites crossover in place. Eventually I'd like to bypass the the internal LF crossover. Are there any good webpages or youtube explaining how to do this correctly. My biggest concern would be too low of impedance on the amp by bypassing the internal crossover.
Thanks for all suggestions.
-
Thank you Frank1938, I'm looking for some reviews now. I also came across crossovers by Ashly, which so far have very good reviews.
-
I am looking into biamping, I know to do it right I should have an active crossover. I've been looking around and now I'm looking for opinions.
I was looking at a Rane AC23s, also a DBX 234xs, some suggested Peavey, and Behringer products. First, are these the active crossovers people refer to? If they are does anyone have experiences or recommendations? I know diy is best but I don't wont to do it, thanks for any suggestions or comments..
Biamping crossover suggestion not diy
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Yes. Yes. No, but it was tested with an extension cord and it still had the hum. Yes. The isolation xfmr seems to have cleaned up all this hum.
Short answer, you are probably correct. Long answer, I was trying to do a 3-way active crossover high/mid through passive crossover, mid/low direct connect to woofer speakers, which leaves low to subwoofer. That being said, I started with a game plan but with the hum, I kinda got side tracked and now that I've got the hum gone, I think I'm going to take a step back and set it up as a 2-way, get everything set back up, I still need to tweak and tune, and then enjoy the home theater.