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alliclaytor

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Everything posted by alliclaytor

  1. So...if anybody runs across an extra two Palladium horn section and networks let me know...I would love to see what they sound like hooked up to the RF-7's bass....maybe good...or horrible. But there is so much talk of the Cornscala...no reason to not be ambitious.
  2. I was considering selling my C-29 if you are interested...let me know.
  3. I was very serious. I would consider buying in a few years or when a used set comes up...for real.
  4. My two cents...I stopped by the store on Friday about 5:00ish and went all around the store. Waiting for the palladiums last. Each room was nicely laid out with various brands of well known and boutique speakers/amps/sources/etc...all out of my price range. Everything sounded good at the listening positions laid out and the salespeople were very knowledgeable...there is my schtick for Ovation. In comparison to the other speakers in the store...I felt like the Palladiums had more openness and power than the competition. Very large sweet spot, I stood from 15% outside of the right and left speaker and still felt like I was getting good two channel sound. As many others have said before these are just smokin' in the midrange...male and female voices were clear and smooth, there was no grain...at all. Saxes sounded like saxes, trumpets sounded like trumpets...and they felt as close to live as I have felt in the 2+ years I have been searching for that sound. They sounded great at low volumes and loud on jazz, African tribal, and rock. I did however prefer the sound standing vs. sitting, meaning that my ears more on axis with the horns as opposed to the bass drivers...I felt it was a more preferable mix and balance of sound. Of course this has a lot to do with the room I am sure. How I would describe them in comparison to other Klipsch speakers...better! Basically a combination of the best parts of other Klipsch speakers and then a step up from that. I have a set or cornwalls and rf-7's and it seems like a nice mix of the tight bass from the RF-7's with the great midrange of the Cornwalls...and then like I said a step up. I equate my migration to Klipsch speakers from whatever else like going from VHS to DVD, the step from the current Klipsch equipment that I own/have heard to the Palladiums is like from DVD to Blue-Ray (not trying to start a format war here). There won't be a $10K difference to most people, but to the people who know/care about it and can scrape together the money...they will be very happy that there is a speaker that can fill the gap between what there is and what they want there to be. Would I buy them? I don't think I could afford the P-39's for some time, but maybe a set of bookshelves in a few years. If the same or very similar horns are used in the bookshelf as the floorstanders, it is a steal for ~$3500 (I think that is the retail price on them, correct me if i am wrong) Paired with a good sub, you would be hard pressed to find a better deal in the audio world...
  5. I've got a TCSounds TC1000 driver in the garage sale forum. If you are handy and want a build challange it may very well suit your needs.
  6. So I have been following the Bass Tracks thread on this sub-forum...and really liked the high quailty tracks that the mentioned website had. I played the train on my RB-75's and it sounded good. Then I thought, "I bet the reason why they have these tracks on a subwoofer site is because of the bass." So i put the tracks on a disk and took them to my living room where a franken-sonosub (15" TC-2000) lay on its side. I played the track and slowly increased the volume to what I would consider "real life" levels. Lots of bass, lots of excursion, lots of rumble...sounded good. I walked away from the sub so I could listen to it from a distance and all of the sudden I heard a high-er pitched POP POP POP and I immediatly ran over and turned the volume off. I felt the sub's metal "cone" and it had a raised concentric circle in the aluminum maybe a 3/16" high. The sub still plays fine...but did I just overdo the sub with the excursion, or did the force of the driver pushing and pulling deform the cone? Also...is this a problem going forward with the reproduction of the sound with the raised section? Thoughs are welcome!
  7. I gave my turntable to my Dad for Christmas....and am looking for a new one. I have seen/read nice things about the Music Hall linup, and used 7 series pop up continually on audiogon for ~600-700ish. That is my price range (or lower) and would like the thoughts of anybody who has one or a better one for the price. Thanks, Alli-
  8. http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=47393 If you see the pictures down towards the bottom it looks like some RF-83's?
  9. Where do people in China buy from for deep discounts on cheap labor?
  10. Get the Les Paul Robot guitar...the automatic tuners are an idea that myself and every engineer that i new who played guitar wanted to do...its freakin sweet.
  11. Ok...lets remember we are all Klipsch lovers here...I am a young 20-something and know what Jay is talking about with getting busy and not being able to sit back and relax to intently listen to music...in college it was usually because I had just gotten back from class and had to get ready for a group meeting and then after than come home and do homework...after that was all done we (my roommates and I who had very different taste in music and entertainment) would be first come first serve at the tv/stereo system (even though all the components were mine) And now that I am out of college it can be even more hectic to spend time listening to music when I am at work for 11 hours enginearding and when i get home it's time to workout, eat, and sleep. You have to work hard to make good money to start to think about family and then audio gear...if I get to listen to one lp (cd or vinyl) a night I am lucky. For what it is worth I would buy the jubs for $7k powered by dual XTI 1000 with all the time corrections and eq built in ($400*2), make two diy tcsounds 5400 subs for $2500 power them with a XTI 4000 for $900, running from Marks Blueberry (~$2000 or thereabouts) and spend $800 on room treatments...add whatever existing source material you have (plug in your iPod to the 1/8" jack running into the blueberry perhaps?) and enjoy. Because for ~$14000 you have a system that it would be crystal clear, dynamic, coherent, and most of all enjoyable and be very very difficult to look down on...except the rest of us haters on the klipsh forum []
  12. I have already been in contact with the owner of that post. he said he will contact me if he can't sell it outright. He didn't know what it was worth so I broke the speaker down into four equally priced units (network, each woofer, and horn) so we will see what he has to say. But thanks for the heads up!
  13. I will be selling a very nice looking cherry rc-7 in the next couple of weeks along with some other misc audio stuff I have collected. I am only planning on selling the rc-7 because I have a custom made rf-7 center channel that has taken its place...almost. I am in the process of looking for the k-67 compression driver for the rf-7. As soon as I find that, I will list it on the garage sale site for well under $550. Going rate for these lately seems to be eratic on ebay, audiogon, etc from under $400 to over $600 depending of course on any modifications, condition, and finish. Keep an eye on the forum and I am sure something will pop up shortly.
  14. I have seen industrial and professional cornwall's, la scalla's, and heresy's. Depending on the model you have different properties to their domestic counterpart. I have a pair of KP-201's that are basically a more rugged exterior and different connection options to the heresy II. As far as I can tell it walks, talks, and smells like a heresy...also I have used them in place of my JBL PA speakers for smaller occasions (they have better fidelity and are more balanced than the jbl's, but don't cover larger crowds. An equivilant to them would be the pro cornwall which is a ported verison of a cornwall (they use these at the indy jazz kitchen and sound great)...many feel that a ported design is advantageous for output but lacks clarity in the bass region...also I think it used the k-43 as opposed to the k-33 woofer. As far as I know the industrial/pro la scalla's are the same as the domestic version...with acception of the woofer. The prices seem to be in approx the same range as the home version. If you only have the option to purchase one speaker for all of your sound reproduction needs...I would say the industrial cornwalls would be a great solution. I'm sure others will chime in and give their oppinons and make any corrections to my statements...obviously listening to them all before deciding would be the best but probably not an option with ebay hunting...good luck.
  15. Jack congrats on the xti...I have been a day late and a dollar short on a few different used ones. I have heard good things about them especially when you can hook up your comp and start fooling with the signals. Also I have heard that the ART box rolls off the lower frequencies pretty significantly if you don't modify it...someone on this forum directed me to this page when I was looking at buying one in the Garage Sale section. The solution is to replace two small caps I believe...this of course may not be the case but take a listen and see what you think. This may not be imporntant since you are using it for the rf-7's. I don't know about you but I love it when I make a improvement to my system and someone says...hey why don't you do this too...take it with a grain of salt.
  16. So i was doing a google search and this thread came up from 2001. Does anybody who spoke about then have anything different to say? Was the legend series better than the RF-7, if at all? I am hearing a lot of the same things about the k-horn/pallad line...is it warrented?
  17. Thanks for the reply...when I get home I will try to plug the numbers in and see if I can come up with the same stuff you did. I want to build an awesome sub as much as i want to learn how to use winisd...so thanks on both accounts. I will post pics when I can. Also, I'll see if I can get TCSounds to give me the inductance ratings. Hope all is well.
  18. Larry, I am also looking for a tube amp for my cornwalls. If you had an idea of what you wanted for the unit and are interested in selling please let me know. I have heard nothing but good from owners of these amps especially when Craig freshens them up. Thanks!
  19. I've received the port. And plan on building asap, thoughts on size?
  20. It's been a while since I took physics...but here we go. I can't answer with any certainty so I will give the equations and let you guys make your assumptions to plug and chug. Also...I am bored so don't ask me why I am not doing something more productive with my time. Elastic bands are often assumed to be similar to springs in simple modeling purposes with nearly linear acceleration during its use so long as it is not under tensile strength beyond its capabilities (perhaps not the case in shooting someone into the air...not so safe.) So Hooke's Law applies. If you can find the k value of the elastic bands, and the distance it was in contact with the seat you can use this. Force = k * distance traveled under guidance of elastic bands Acceleration = Force / Mass (of the guy) If you could estimate how high he went you could go this route: Velocity leaving spring (meters/sec) = (final height (meters) + (.5 * 9.81 * time in air ^2))/ time in air Acceleration = Velocity leaving spring/Time in spring -OR- Velocity leaving spring (meters/sec) = sqrt(19.62(max height-height leaving unit)) Acceleration = Velocity leaving spring/Time in spring I think there may be some other variations on these...but I don't know of a way of solving the equations with so many unknowns. There are not even enough different formulas that I know of to be able to solve simultaneously without performing redundancies and getting nowhere. But who cares it's just a movie!
  21. TCSounds used to recommend a box size, but I can't find it under their current website. When I did look though, there didn't seem to be anything comparable (in my mind) to what I was looking at building. The Box: 44" tall, which can be cut to length 24" diameter Port: 6" with a flare on both ends can be between 5" and 29" long End Caps" 3 * 3/4" mdf with two inside the box and one outside for a nice roman column look I would like to learn more about how to model these things, and really do appreciate any and all help given. When I did model it in winisd, if I put all the parameters in there were a significant amount of redundancy check errors. I then looked online how to enter the data and got some help. Even after than when you put the box type, ports, etc in the suggested areas I don't have the pedigree to know if it was done correctly especially with such a different config than what is generically outlined in winisd.
  22. The Driver Fixed SVC 15" Qms 4.26 Res ? 3.12 BL 17.20 Mms (grams) 296.00 Cms µN/M 260.00 Sd (m^2) 0.0820 Lp (mH) Ls (mH) Rp ? Constants c (m/s) 341.00 d (kg/m³ 1.20 K 9.64E-10 Calculated Vas (liters) 243.94 Fs (Hz) 18.14 Qes 0.356 Qts 0.328 n0 3.95E-03 SPL (dB) 87.96 Xmax = 28mm
  23. First off...thanks for the info. And i will try to give as many detailed responses as I can. The tube itself is 44 inches long, with the end caps it would be at most 41" (inside the tube are 2 * 3/4" mdf * 2 (top and bottom)) The crossover i am planning on using is the beringer SUPER-X PRO CX2310 it has 24db/oct slopes + whatever my receiver has, variable crossover from 10 to 235 hz, and a sub gain control (and a 25hz cut if I am concerned about the low frequencies). I realize it may not be the best of options but I have it lying around to mess with. I am planning on using my crown power base 3 (>1000W @ 4ohms) for the time being to power the speaker. I have tried to model the sub in both winisd and sonosub.exe and gotten mixed results. I have just been trying to learn on the fly without much instruction on the specific ins and outs of the software and its use. I do like the idea of less distortion...after all I am a Klipsch fan I am not so concerned about tuning the sub between 15 hz and 25hz...although I know I can kinda hear it, I don't know how much it will make a difference to me. So there is a place for a possible change. I will dampen the tube...no questions asked. For the velocity of the air...I have the largest port I can find, 6" dia with flares on both sides...It's on the way. I guess right now the major questions are port length, gross tube length, and crossover point. I am not the type of person to ask for someone to do my work for me...I want to understand why I am building it the way I am...but I don't have the experience to model it and know where to go. I like the idea of a huge box...but I am ok with it being smaller too.
  24. Ok...Ok...I admit I basically hang around the 2 channel/HT areas. But I have learned a great deal recently about subs from this corner of Klipsch so I am sorry guys and I hope you season vets can give me some advice. Jay mentioned maybe not so linear a freq curve on my setup due to high volume (ft ^3) so i modeled it with a crossover to my rf-7's at 50 hz. It looked fairly linear in winisd but was around 3db under the "ideal" for most of the curve. With the endcaps on the tube I show it being ~10.5 ft^3. Am I modeling it incorrectly? Should I make it smaller (that what she said...Michael Scott) or am I good to go. Also, if it helps I am using this for mostly movies...but my preference would be to make it sound great for music and the movies will suffer a bit.
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