Catbo

GaryO75, How did the PC50 horn adapter work out for you? GaryO75 wrote the following post at Mon, Apr 21 2008 9:13 AM: I think I have found a one piece adapter that will do what needs to be done to join the Atlas driver to the Goldwood horn. Go to www.speakercity.com, then click on the P-Audio logo. In their listing of company sectors, go the the P-Audio Adapters, and scroll down to the PC50. It's a one piece unit that looks like it should do the job. I have a couple of them coming to me to experiment. I'll let you know how it goes

Hi dmonte, I'm very pleased with the Super C walls. I've been amazed with the sound quality. It's a very clean, clear, and smooth sound. Piano keys and strings sound more realistic and the overall sound just sounds more rounded, fuller sounding, more real sounding, more relaxed sounding, and a little more detailed, probably has much to do with the tratrix horn with these differences? I haven't been listening to my Klipschorn's. I find myself listening to the Super C Walls more than any of my other speakers. If I were to build another, I wouldn't make any changes with how this has a very nice balance from top to bottom. I would be curious how a larger horn setup would sound like the jubilee but I can't imagine a larger sound than I'm already getting with the Super C Walls, but I know the jubilee would be larger sounding. I'm happy with the Super C Walls sound and feel content and set with it. How's your speaker project going?

I've been working on the Klipschorn's for a few days and have been experimenting and now realizing some of the differences in the horns and crossovers. I also have the sound.... sounding much better from a few changes. The room had some sort of reflection going back into the listening position. I realized this when the more I moved back farther away the worse it got on my ears. I moved furniture around, did some curtains and absorbing materials. It made a nice change and the sound is more smooth and better, I then also changed to a higher current amp with not so forwarding soundstage and that helped and I also gained back some of the low-level clarity I could hear I was missing. Maybe the AK-4 crossovers need more current to bring out the low-level clarity?? I'm happy I'm hearing it now. I opened the bass bins and the crossovers are large and heavy! I found the left side had the woofer wire tightly resting up against the woofer back paper cone, now this explains why I thought each sounded slightly different! Why did it take me this long to figure it out? Both speakers balance well together from what I'm used to hearing before, now that the wire isn't resting on the woofer paper anymore. The Klipschorn's have a certain big airy smoothness to them I like and sound very good. I don't think I will modify them after these changes. I would like to try and keep it all stock if I can make myself! I like the sound and I already have the Super "C" Walls for a little different sound so I was thinking I should just leave the Klipschorn's alone and enjoy their sound instead of trying to change them into the Super "C" Walls sound because I already have that (as my other half strongly pointed out to me[:$]) and the Klipschorn's have a certain unique sound that belongs only to the Klipschorn's that I probably shouldn't tamper with! That's how I'm trying to justify it and I don't know enough like others here that know all the techical know-how, I also don't want to do anything that might devalue the Klipschorn's resale value. Also others mentioned to me that the AK-4 crossovers were done for the newer Klipschorn's to sound better than the past versions and make them smoother sounding. I just wanted to follow up that I now have the Klipschorn's sounding great and thank every one for your help! [Y]

dmonte, I don't see why the P-Audio BMD-750 2"Throat Compression Driver wouldn't work, as long as you make the compensations needed to the crossovers you use for the proper output to it and the woofer. I have the Klipschorn's that go up to 17 kHz and other speakers that go to 20 to 23 kHz and I can't hear any difference, I hear everything in the Klipschorn's that the others higher kHz do so I guess my ears aren't sensitive enough to pickup higher than 17kHz?? Looks to me you could bypass the tweeter but I'm not one to know enough to say for sure on anything but you could always give it a try and see how you like the sound.

GaryO75 - wow, thanks for sharing that with us! I searched all over the internet looking for one and couldn't find it any where. I've had a few people asking me where to just get a 1-peice adapter to use with the Goldwood horn, now maybe this one will help them out. It should work as long as the horn + adapter + comp.driver = no more than 13 1/2 inches internally from front to back for the original cornwall size. You will also gain 1 inch or more (can't remember) if you front mount the horn like I did. Let us know how it works out for you and thanks again for sharing where to get an adapter for it!! [*]

You have to be patient with yourself and listen very carefully to what you are hearing. The Forte's will have a quick snappy-ness to the sound and a sort of holographic airy sound. This may come across as a little thinner sounding at first from the RF-7's because the RF-7's have a more fuller center sound and a more tonal cone quality type from the cones and the RF-35's are of simular sound like the RF-7's. You are used to the RF-35's sound and have to give yourself some adjustment time to take-in the sound of the Forte's. Because the RF-7's and RF-35's use cones for part of it's midrange, it has a slight softness to the sound in the low level clarity. Yes the RF-7's and RF-35's are very detailed and has great clarity resolution for the type of speaker it is, but slightly softer than the midrange horn. This isn't saying it's bad or good for either, just some differences in sound. No one can tell you which is the best because what is best to you is only what you like better of your own personal choice that sounds best to your ears. It's all subjective and only you can answer it by listening to both and deciding what you like "best" to you! [] It's always this way when it comes to speakers and sound equipment! I have Klipschorn, RF-7, KLF-20, RF-3, Forte II, and Super "C" Walls (very large Cornwall Clone). All the horn midrange I have, have a certain low-level clarity that the RF is slightly less, little more softened. The RF-7's come close if you give it some high-quality equip, but still not the clarity of the Klipsch Midrange horn speakers I have, but you have to have equipment that can reveal clarity too. If you listen very closely to pickup on these differences, you should hear these differences from your RF-35 and Forte's. You have to decide what sound differences you like best to your taste and go with that. I enjoy all the Klipsch speakers I have, each just a little different. If I were put in a situation where I could only keep one speaker, it would be one with a midrange horn, but I still haven't been able to give up my RF-3 and RF-7 speakers! I probably will always keep my RF-7's because I like them that much but some people either love them or hate them and I still haven't figured out how anyone could actually hate them! I can only think that those people never have really heard what it's capable of but on other forums I some times hear people saying they hate anything from Klipsch and I don't understand that! I just think those people must have never really heard a well setup Klipsch speaker and don't know what they are missing! [] It just comes down to personal choice of what speaker you like more! I also really like my Forte II speakers too! [Y]

I contacted the guy who purchased the adapters I have, it was purchased almost a year ago. It seems there was a China Company making speaker drivers, compression drivers, horns, and adapters that didn't make it and sold off all their inventory. So the adapter I have, I have not been able to locate anyone on the internet having it in stock, searched Google and can't find it, but it has no name on it, just "made in china". I talked to www.jamacspeakers.com and they said they don't see those lately but said they carry the 1" bolt to 2" bolt adapter for $14.00 and have the 1" bolt to 1-3/8" screw adapter for $7.00, he said the two adapters would be needed now to do the same, for the 1-3/8" screw driver to 2" bolt horn. Click on contact information for address and phone number. Sounds like they may be able to help. He said they have two of each in stock now. I also remember coming across a German website of a guy who makes wooden horns and he showed on his website how to make a wooden adapter to mount a compression driver to any plastic or wooden 1" or 2" throat horn just out of a 1 ?/?" thick and 2" to 3" square wood that he cuts into shape and makes the exit hole from a tool bit he uses on a drill. It was interesting because I've never seen anyone do that and he said that works well. I spent some time last night trying to find that website again and cannot find it nor does my memory recall the website name. He made it look easy to do. If I find that website again, I'll post it here, or maybe someone else knows the website?

Thank you. I did use glue to get a very good seal on the enclosure but I needed the screws to hold it all together until the glue dried [], because I didn't have anything to hold it together until it dried! [:^)], but screws+glue only makes for a stronger hold I would think!

Yes, I used an adapter for a 2" throat bolt type to a 1" throat for a 1-3/8"-18 TPI screw driver. It's just under 1 1/2 inches or so and cost around $6.00 to $7.00 each and "made in china" The guy I bought them from purchased them for that price at a local PA Systems/Audio store. It's made out of aluminum and has a nice black satin finish/paint.

Wow, thanks !!! [A]

back of BFS-2 with drivers view

and his BFS-2 (Belle Clone) with optional added bass bin it is sitting on top of for more bass and lower lows.

back and side view of XT-200

back of XT-200

cover off XT-200