Jump to content

Dman155

Regulars
  • Posts

    114
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dman155

  1. If anyone has extensive experience with both of these speakers, I'd like to hear your thoughts. FYI, I'm on a budget, I mostly listen to music, the room is small, I don't want a seperate sub, and the amplification is not going to be top notch. Also, can someone give me the specs of the KSF's or a link to them?
  2. They have some really cool stuff. I've always wondered why no one made amps like those. Too bad they don't post any power specs. From the prices, they can't make much. Anyway, they probably add a lot of un-needed heat to the inside of a computer. That site needs product descriptions.
  3. Cut the wire from the preamp (near the end w/the busted jack) and tell me what it looks like. There should be 2 seperated wires. To splice into another jack, cut the wire near the end of the replacement jack, and connect one wire from the promedia wire to one from the replacement, and repeat for the second wire. There might be a quality difference, it might void your warranty, etc etc. I recommend contacting klipsch about a replacement, or just getting a CP-1.
  4. You're gonna need a new preamp. You can order the new CP-1 from the site store for $50, or you can call klipsch and see if they have any of the older preamps available, cheaper. Of course, you could find another mini-jack cord, rip the jack off, and splice it into your current preamp cord.
  5. I have found a setting which I like (a slightly boosted midrange section is all really), but with this setting, or any for that matter, mp3's sound staticy. It's not on all music, but I notice a distinct amount of static added to some tracks when I turn the eq on. FYI, none of the bands are set more then 3 dB above or below normal. Is there a fix anywhere? I'm using the very latest version of winamp, and that mp3 decoder the other guy on here recommended (MAD or something, I actually like it slightly better then the winamp decoder). If I raise some bands, do I have to lower others to compensate? Try Moby's "Why does my heart feel so bad" for example, with and w/out eq settings.
  6. I have the same problem too. It only scratches in the front left channel when I adjust the volume. Can you send me a free CP-1 upgrade? But seriously, is this a real problem? If I don't mind it, am I ok?
  7. I don't know about that plugin. It does some good and bad. It added more hiss, and some other scratchy/staticy sounds, but it does make some of my stuff sound clearer. Honestly, if you were using the Full Bass and Trebble preset before, I have to question you're experience in dealing with quality, accurate sound.
  8. What does the switch do then? Does the LED turn off? Can you hear hissing from the speakers after they're "off"? How do you like the CP-1 otherwise?
  9. On. The BASH amp, however, draws very little power when its not in use (its probably 2 or 3 watts). Consequently, on or off doesn't really matter. The new CP-1 preamp has an on/off switch if you really want that.
  10. First of all, the CP-1 is not obsolete, the new 4.1's are going to use it. Second, the effects of the changed crossovers are minimal, and only the pickiest people have/will notice a difference. There's nothing obsolete about the V.2-400's. I bet you could still order them w/free overnight at outpost. As to how the CP-1 sounds, I think it's supposed to be quieter (less hiss) then the previous 2 preamps, but reports from people on this site have been mixed.
  11. Yeah, Steve, I read that review and was a little worried too. Anyone have experience with Adcom amps and Klipsch? I've seen the 535 on eBay going for <$300. W/60 wpc, I'm sure it's got plenty of power for some RF-3's, but I want to know how it will sound.
  12. geforec2 ultra = $400 - $500 I totally agree silver.
  13. By 5.1 inputs, I mean receivers with a front right/left, rear right/left, center, and subwoofer input, designed to be used with an external decoder. When a source is connected to one or any of these inputs, the signal is sent to the amplifier section, without getting processed. If I have two channels, I connect one to the front right and one to the front left input on the receiver. Then, I would select the 5.1 channel input (just like I would select a CD player or dvd player as a source). Then, the amp would power the front right and left channels. Now if you understand what I said, it follows that I could split the source signal (for a grand total of 4 signals, 2 each of right and left), and use 4 of the 6 inputs, and 4 of the 5 amplifier channels. Now I think I know what I'm talking about, but if I have the 5.1 channel input thing messed up, let me know. FYI, the receiver I'm looking at is a JVC RX8000. Also, I know how to biwire, the whole point of this is to bi-amp the speaker. Both the RF-3's and the AR-9's handle a lot of power, but most receivers make a 100 wpc. If I can use 4 of the channels, thats 200 watts per speaker.
  14. I think the pr was on the front actually, and the ative driver was in the rear. The driver probably needs a good 4 inches or so minimum, but unless you want to knock your house over, 8 inches is probably right. FYI, you could place an RSW side-ways against a wall, w/drivers firing parallel to the wall.
  15. Why would bass from the rears sound like crap? I'm not talking about a crappy receiver here, I just mean a decent one with 5.1 channel inputs. What if I used the rear amps for the mid/high section of the speaker?
  16. Why not get your money back for the HGS and get a pair of SVS 16-46's w/600 watt amp for 1500$ or whatever the price is.
  17. I am looking to buying some RF-3's or acoustic research AR-9's (any opinions?) which both have biwire capability. If I get a receiver w/5.1 inputs (DD ready), can I use say, the front left and rear left channels to power one speaker? What I mean is, I'd take each channel from the source and split it. Then I'd plug one left channel into the left front input, and the other left channel into the rear left input. Then, I'd connect the front left output to one set of posts on the left speaker, and the rear left output to the other set of binding posts. Then I'd do the same for the right. Would this work? I guess this would actually qualify as bi-amping right?
  18. That's because every song has midrange in it. Some have more then others, but pretty much anything with acoustic intsruments and vocals has a good deal of midrange. More specifically, listen to some solo acoustic guitar or classical.
  19. The reason subs have volume controls on them is to match the volume to your speakers. Are you noticing a lack of bass with your HGS? If so, just turn it up. Also, talk to RWMIN, he has an HGS-12 w/KLF's and says its fine.
  20. Are those prices from an authorized dealer? If not, and you're ok with it, check eBay. There's always like 2 dozen KSW subs on there.
  21. It just seems that with 60 watts and decent (from what you said, I'm presuming) sensitivity, the pros should be louder then similar systems with like 50 watts total and 10 watt sats, but in most cases, the difference is only a few dB. Of course, the difference between 10 and 60 watts isn't that great (6 - 8 dB maybe), but can you shed some light on this Dan?
  22. http://www.hometheatertalk.com/Reviews/SVS_Subwoofer/svs_subwoofer.html Good review, unfortunatly, no specs.
  23. I am looking at a Sony STRV333ES but I've also seen STR-DA333ES's on eBay. Whats the difference? I've had a hard time finding info on the ES line, even Sony's website is less then elaborate. Post links to reviews if you know of any, and anywhere there's a detailed list of specs. Thanks. Also, if you use an ES receiver with klipsch, tell me what you think.
×
×
  • Create New...