rumble

if i jumper all 3 binding posts, then doesn't that send the amplified signal from the surround amp to all 3 speakers in the k400s? (woofers, mids and tweeters...) then if i run the sub woofer out INTO the sub woofer INPUT or LFE INPUT to the panel at the bottom of the speakers, then aren't i sending 2 different signals to the SUBS? a LINE OUT signal and a signal powered by the surround amp? that doesn't make sense to me. (and i'll be the first to admit i'm a neophyte at this surround sound stuff, even though i've had my own sound studio for a number of years.) i started looking up LFE info and found this: https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/lfe-vs-subwoofer/ Q: “In surround sound, isn’t an LFE channel the same as a subwoofer channel?” A: Actually, LFE and a subwoofer are two very different things. Typically, the term subwoofer refers to a speaker that reproduces very low-frequency information that the main channel speakers (however many there are) are incapable of effectively reproducing, or at least augments them such that low-frequency sounds normally found on the main audio channels are directed to the subwoofer speaker for added punch in the low range. In this way, a subwoofer acts as a complement to extend the range of the main speakers, which may find it difficult, if not impossible, to reproduce these low frequencies in the quantities needed. The LFE is a separate channel that has its own, dedicated track in the audio production. The LFE channel is often specifically produced with low-frequency information exclusive to it. Content producers create emphatic sound effects for it, such as, crashes, gunshots, and such. Ultimately the purpose is not all that different from the goals of conventional subwoofers, and subwoofer speakers are quite often used for playback of LFE information, which is typically bandwidth limited to lower frequencies best suited for subs. It’s just important to understand the distinction between the two. anyway, i'll try running the amps (with no load on them) to see if the noise goes away

hi keith i'm still confused by those two sentences. they seem to be saying use the 2 different inputs. it's moot at this point because i got my amps back and all the caps and rectifiers were replace and i'm still getting a bad hum (though not as loud as before). does anybody have any thought on this? thanks

i managed to get the amps out and over to a friend of mine that is pretty adept at electronics (more so than i am...) i told him to use higher quality parts than what was originally in the amps. (are the capacitors what always made these amps fail?) re: run your 'Y-cabled' receiver single sub output to each speakers LFE Input and adjust LFE and Bass volume controls to taste. are you saying don't connect to the sub inputs on the speakers?? why should i use the LFE instead? thanks

umm... i'm not seeing the link... i'm a little confused trying to navigate around this site.

what the heck is this? looks amazing.

hi keith the manual has connections in the diagrams that have no explanation!! only the 2 pairs of binding posts from the right are jumpered - that's ok, i plugged my speaker wires into them and finally got a signal to the other drivers, so at least i know those work now however i wasn't that impressed by the sound. i thought the rear surround speakers sounded fantastic though when i tested those separately, so i'm hoping when i get the subs working the ksp 400s will come to life... i'm more used to listening to my ads L900s and L710s... i have a guy that fixes electronics at my friend's musical instrument store that seems pretty adept at amps and things of that ilk, i'm just wondering if people have done modifications to make the amp better or used higher quality parts to overcome the problem. i think i grabbed the pdf manual the other night, so that will help, providing that i don't have a different version of the board that what's in the manual. does anyone know the year(s) these were made? btw - i'm in new hampshire (and for some reason i'm not being notified of replies, so forgive any delays in replying.)

yes. when i turn the left speaker on to AUTO it is silent. if i slide the switch to ON it buzzes, then still buzzes when i slide the switch to AUTO, and when i slide the button to OFF. the right speaker buzzes immediately when i turn it to AUTO and ON

the search didn't turn up much, or i wasn't successful at it. i need the scematics and other technical pdf. good fortune is right - i got them for nothing off of freecycle.org. i also bought a pair of klipsh cornwalls for $40 at a salvation army about 2 years ago.

hello i recently got a pair of ksp 400s and the rear surrounds and center channel speakers. when i applied ac power to the sub amps there was a nasty buzz and hum (both speakers). after doing a little search on google i've found that this is pretty common and the fix is to replace the caps (or bypass the internal amps and use an external amp) i'd prefer to fix the amps that are in there but all the links to the schematics i've seen are bad, so if someone has them or can direct me to a good link where i can download them i'd appreciate it. another thing that puzzled me was how bad the owner's manual was written. i have a sony surround amp and it has a single line out for the sub woofer which i ran to one of the speakers (thinking that maybe it needed to see a signal before the noise would stop (i was wrong), but the manual makes no mention of how you are supposed to get the sub line level out to the other speaker since the surround amp only has one line level sub out. are you supposed to jump it over via the LFE jack beside the line input on the sub amps on the speaker? the other thing was, i had no sound coming out of the 3 drivers on the tops of the ksp 400s when i hooked my front speaker outputs from my surround amp to them. they did not feel fried when i pushed on the cones.... i know those are not connected to the sub amps, but do the sub amps have to work before the upper speaks work? thanks ray b

http://www.yamaha.co.jp/manual/english/result.php m 40 specs: 8 ohms - 120w 6 ohms - 145w 4 ohms - 170w also has an auto class a switch. when off it functions as class a/b amp m 45 specs: 8 ohms - 125w 6 ohms - 150w 4 ohms - 180w also has an auto class a switch when off it functions as class a/b amp -------------------- M 50: (my amp) does not have an auto class a switch. no specs listed at yamaha's site for the m 50. (because this whole universe is against me) <>all it says over speaker terminals is 8-16 ohms.is this a yamaha "black sheep"? -------------------- m 60 specs: 8 ohms - 160w 6 ohms - 185w 4 ohms - 210w also has auto class a switch. when off it functions as class a/b amp also has ohm load selector switches to adjust meters for 2, 4, or 8 ohm loads

yep.. been there... pretty odd...

hi i have a yamaha m-50 power amp and just got a pair of ads L710s which are rated at 6 oms nominal / 4 ohms minimum and i'm afraid i'll clip the amp and blow the speakers if this amp doesn't have a 4 ohm speaker rating. i can't find any specs for the amp anywhere on the internet, and the only thing printed on the back of the amp is for 8 ohm speaker outs. other m-series yamaha amps seem to have 4 ohm ratings, so i was wondering if this were true for the m-50 i have. thanks in advance. rb