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Blvdre

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Everything posted by Blvdre

  1. Who exactly are these private vendors? Both Deang and JEM Performance are approved Klipsch service providers. Deang offered good advice regarding ESR testing of capacitors, and was providing sound direction for the OP. I don't see anything to criticize here, except that fewer and fewer truly knowledgeable people are left on this forum.
  2. Eh, they'll probably be fine.
  3. I was recalling Al's plot of the K-77M (red) vs the Alnico (black), but to be fair, the Alnico magnets may not have been up to snuff. Given that issue being a possibility when buying used, though, I'd still recommend the K-77M for Erivera.
  4. You are correct, the K77M has the ceramic magnet, and it's response differs from the older alnico tweeters. You are on the right track looking for a k77M replacement, to preserve the proper voicing of your Khorns.
  5. That's a great deal. Wish I lived nearby.
  6. Even with a discount, that's a very big price discrepancy.
  7. I have an early pair of Crites ct-125s. The bad, a couple of broken mounts (1 each). I need a torque wrench. They mount fine as-is. I bought a replacement horn from Bob (when I only needed one replacement), but never got around to replacing it. The finish is different, shinier. The good: Like I said, they mount up fine, and work perfectly. $100 plus ship.
  8. It sounds like the input selector switch is bad. The sound you describe is what a turntable plugged into a line-level input would sound like. Turntables require RIAA equalization for proper tonal balance. Without it, your phono will be all treble, no bass. Just a guess, but I think the switch isn't changing the input from line to phono, so the line level input is always selected.
  9. There's probably a metallic bit(s) that stuck to the magnet in the gap, causing the voice coil to rub against it. I doubt that the voice coil is out of alignment. Unfortunately, you'll have to remove the cone to clean the gap out. This will probably entail having to replace the surround.
  10. If the speed is varying while playing (audibly slowing down), the pot's wiper or resistive element may be dirty. In MM's posted instructions above, I would add step 1.5: Run the adjustment for both 33 and 45 rpm back and forth, from end to end, several times. This will help clean the wiper and resistive track of dirt. Many potentiometers don't have a hard stop at the end of their adjustment, but will make a quiet click, so keep your ears open.
  11. Glass. It might be best to just be patient and measure once they've arrived. Tolerance stack ups can cause slight variations within the same model group of any product.
  12. I can vouch for this, as well. I've reamed out many a vintage cymbal mounting hole from the old 7/16" to the new 1/2". This demurring tool works well to break the sharps.
  13. I will, too, if I can ever get the remaining cables built out. $5.00 is a bargain.
  14. I have several interconnects using this. Good stuff, studio standard.
  15. If the old gear hasn't been serviced, be prepared to spend some money getting it up to snuff, if not right away, then at least eventually. Electrolytics dry up, switches and pots get worn/dirty. I've repaired a few pieces, and while it's rewarding, it's a commitment of time. 100% worth it to get it back to spec, though, if it's something you want to use/keep for the long term.
  16. Years ago, when I worked on the bench repairing electronics, I was soldering together two wires that didn't have a good mechanical connection (my fault) and one of the wires popped off and splashed flux in my eye (wasn't wearing my glasses). Luckily, I had contact lenses in. Ruined the lens, but saved my eye. Always wear your safety glasses when soldering.
  17. The pic is unclear. The Vinyl cap could be just a slip-on cover, or have a central threaded post that screws into the insert. Since they call it a cap, I'm guessing the former.
  18. Pdow, McMaster-Carr may have what you're looking for, if you can figure out the thread size/pitch. The threaded posts that remain could have been the threaded post molded into the rubber foot of the speaker. What does the receiver look like? You may be able to remove the post by just unscrewing it, and using a new foot with an integrated threaded post. If the post doesn't want to budge, look for a foot with the correct receiver that will screw onto the post.
  19. Blvdre

    First Watt

    Mike's right. It's SOP for manufacturers to keep a stock of repair parts for post-production products, usually with a policy of support for X number of years. Our company does it for a service period of 10 years (laboratory test equipment), but it could be more or less, depending on the technology and period of relevancy.
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