mikieboyblue

Do you notice any difference in sound? I have a hard time hearing a difference between mine without the passive radiator and with. This might be because my room size is so small or because I also have a powered sub. Not sure.

Yeah, that's what I did.

What happens if you don't take off the paper?

Oh my! What in the world happened?? Connected the tweeter to the wrong terminal?

I've done the crossover replacement and titanium tweeter diaphragm upgrade all from Bob Crites. Big improvement. When I did the crossover replacement, I also replace all internal wiring with 14 ga. speaker wire and newly soldered connections.

Phew....glad I bought mine when I did! Bummer Mark...

Hi Greg, The only place I was ever able to find replacement passives was directly from Klipsch. Give them a call and follow the prompt to the parts department. The part number is KD-16. They are in stock hit or miss. If they don't have them now, call back in a month or so. Mike

Hi Gary, I had refinished the speakers a few years ago and had stained them Walnut. When I did that refinish I used 300 grit sand paper to take off the oak oil, sticker residue (yes stickers...these speakers were owned by a college radio station that I ran prior to me acquirering them), and sand down other blemishes. For the recent refinish, because they were mostly smooth at that point, I used 180 grit sand paper to rough up the wood and remove some of the stain so the paint would adhere. For paint I used two coat of Rust-Oleum American Accents flat black smooth finish latex paint and three coats of Cabot fast drying super clear semi-gloss brushing lacquer. I did not need to sand between coat of paint or lacquer. I did the entire process inside to cut down on dust. (Just besure to open a window in the house because the lacquer is a killer.) Thanks, Mike

Thanks Stephen!

Thanks! I finally had time to play with the placement of the speakers and after moving the left speaker a few inches the sound is now even. I used a long piece of string to make sure all four corners of the speakers lined up with the proper location across the room. (The inner front corner is alinged with the outer corner of the couch.) They are amazing speakers!

Hi folks, First, thank you to each and everyone one of your for your support. I finally decided (after more than a year) to take the time and get my Chorus II speakers fixed. I was able to purchase a pair of Klipsch KD-16 passive radiators to replace the missing pair. I also installed the new crossovers and a new pair of tweeter titanium diaphragms from Bob Crites. In addition, I replaced the old wiring with new 16 ga copper wire. All connections (except those connecting to the crossovers were soldered. Lastly, I refinished them. They now have two coats of black paint and three coats of semi-gloss lacquer. The following album contains photos of the operation. They now sound 200% better. They are much louder and sound amazing. The only hicup is that the right one now sounds louder than the left and I have a hard time repositioning them to ensure the sound is even. I need to acquir a multimeter to check the voltage of the left and right channel to make sure my receiver doesn't have a problem (can this even be done?). Of course, maybe my ears have a problem.Or they are just mis-positioned. Or maybe they just sound so much better I am not used to it. Either way, +1.0 to the left and -1.0 to the right seems to help. Thanks all! Mike

And if done properly, would get you closer to stock than the Dayton PRs. Yes....properly....I am sure I will be back to post again when I figure out what I was going to do...I have to reread to see if I needed a port or not.

Whoa, thanks Doc. You and some of the other folks on this forum really amaze me and really make this forum a better place. I might not always understand every post, but I do learn something each time. I find it interestesting that putting two of these Dayton 15s in the cabinets actually matches stock. Makes me wish I could get the stock PR. The main reason why I am still leaning to get a PR is becuase I would rather have the speakers back to their orignal state as oppose to modified with a plug in the back. Who knows...putting the MDF in there is certainly cheaper by many dollars.

Ok, I am going to revive this nearly year old thread as I have still not gotten around to taking care of this...sign... So, new question. We were discussing putting two 15 inch MDF discs in place of the passive radiators and possibly adding a port because the passive radiators seem hard to come by. However, will searching for a replacment M&K driver for my father, I cam across these Dayton 15 inch passive radiators and was wondering if that would work as well? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-194 Obviously they would be much more expensive than the MDF route but just courious. I actually have to read this thread again to figure out what I was suppose to be doing! Thanks, Mike

Sadly yes (house remodeling get in the way). I hope to get around to making the backs, rewiring, and installing Bob C.'s crossovers soon! I will report back when I have it done. Thanks for asking.

Haha yes, I corrected my post.

Thanks guys! I have never hear of Earthquake, I'll have to look for it. Is seems like HSU and Velocity Velodyne are good alternatives to the high price of JL's.

HAHA! Ok. I didn't know that [] I hear things pretty well but, is this something should be worried about if I can hear it only from a distance?

I'm sorry. The one you linked to 8.5 inches long. And I cannot find a 3.75 x 4.75 port on the same site. Also, what's funny is you mention I can try 2 in. ports leaving them at the 3/4 in. deep MDF and see how that goes but how in the world would I know if it is right or wrong. I find it interesting there are so many options. How do you know what to choose or what is correct?

So in english (sorry), it was mentioned that I can use two 2" ports or one 6" port. What should be used and where should they be placed. You mentioned the sizes and 6x6 port. With 8.75" of space, is that too close? Should the port be right in the middle? Sorry for all the silly questions. I need a bit of direction here.

STL: What did you need the distance for?

No, I will tonight. I left my tools at the house I am remodeling. It looks like there is about 8.75 inches.

No, I will tonight. I left my tools at the house I am remodeling.

Does the position of a port matter?

I'll have to see if I can find someone with a jig saw...because if I have to buy one it would make these just as pricey... I'm young, not many tools yet...not to mention nowhere to put them...If anyone would be interested in fabricating these for me PM me.