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Moving them is part of the issue -- and I actually have thought about what you suggest. The other part is my listening room is on the second floor and there is already a lot of weight in the room so I want to minimize the overall weight. At the very least, I'd like to spread it out, so more lighter subs would be better than fewer heavier subs.

I'm aware of the Klipsch KW-120 THX Ultra 2 subs and agree they are pretty amazing, especially considering their more modest size. Other commercial passive subs I'm aware of are: SVS CS Ultra SVS 16-46 CS SVS 20-39 CS SVS 25-31 CS I understand Hsu offers (or offered) passive subs but I'm not familiar with the models. I guess what I'm really asking for is a list of other commercially made passive subs. What else is out there?

I think my primary requirements would be size and weight. I don't want anything too big or too heavy that could not be moved by myself -- including going up a flight of stairs. With a hand truck, moving blankets, and ratchet straps, I'm able to move something as large/heavy as a Belle or La Scala up a flight of stairs to that would probably be about the maximum size/weight I would want to go. I don't think a horn sub would be a consideration at the moment as a larger (and heavier) box would be needed to get to the lower frequencies that I'd want in a sub. With that in mind, I'd consider either a ported or sealed design.

Thanks, I've considered DIY kits -- specifically the 18" kit from Parts Express. I'm not familiar with the Diyaudio kits so I'll have to take a look. I don't expect to do anything completely DIY as I don't have the appropriate tools nor the time to go that route but a flat-pack is something I would entertain.

Unfortunately, your Realtor is correct. The guys on this forum saying otherwise are audiophiles and love this stuff, as do I. However, most people are not audiophiles and see the gear as clutter, not to mention the concerns raised where you have made holes to hang things from the ceiling. We love that, but most people won't. The other poster who showed his setup in a house that sold had a very clean looking system without any clutter. Nothing was attached to the home so it is easy to see past that and know it will be gone once the house is bought with no leftover artifacts (holes in the walls/ceiling).

I think I have decided that passive subwoofers are the way to go. There are a few reasons: (1) the amplifiers in active subwoofers seem to have high failure rates. This is likely due to the vibrations -- electronics don't like vibrations and being integrated with the sub driver provides for a harsher environment. (2) In the event your subwoofer amp needs replacing, it is a much easier thing to do when it is separate from the sub. For active subs you have to find the right amp that has the same form and fit as the original amp. That likely means getting one from the OEM and they may not carry that model any longer. In that case, you either ditch the entire subwoofer or you get a different amp that will be used externally. You will have essentially converted your active subwoofer to a passive subwoofer. So why not start out with a passive sub in the first place? It is far better to replace just the subwoofer amp than the entire (active) subwoofer -- if complete replacement is the route you choose. And (3), separating the two allows you the freedom to chose your subwoofer amp. Now while you would have to assume the subwoofer manufacturer has already chosen the ideal amp for their sub, sometimes that means they are making the selection based on cost targets. If you select your own sub amp, you may be able chose one of higher quality than what the OEM might be providing. This doesn't always mean a higher cost to you. Even if the passive sub comes with an external amp, that is still preferable to me based on my other points mentioned above. What that being said, what passives subs are out there? DIY is where most are but what about commercially available? I'm aware of very few passive subs commercially available -- most are active.

I can't say anything about the cost to manufacture, but I do recall when both models were available at the same time at my local dealer. The Chorus was actually priced slightly higher. I don't know when production of the Chorus I ended but the Chorus II continued well into the mid-to-late 90's.

It's going to depend on your personal preferences. Some prefer the Cornwall, others prefer the Chorus. I've owned Cornwall I, Cornwall II, and Chorus II. I prefer the Cornwalls -- they sound more musical to me. While it is true that the Chorus replaced the Cornwall. The Chorus (either versions) is no longer made, while the Cornwall was brought back and is currently in production.

I've owned La Scalas and agree that they do resonate -- but that was only noticeable to me at higher volumes (levels I don't listen to that often). My Cornwalls would also resonate at those higher volume levels -- not surprising as it is a big wooden box. The truth is, all loudspeaker boxes will resonate when energized, it's just the magnitude of the resonance that may differ. Some boxes have bracing to minimize those resonances (e.g., B&W Matrix series). The size, material, material thickness, and flexibility of the chosen materials are all factors. I recall auditioning a speaker many years ago that had concrete as part of the material selection (I can't recall the brand at the moment, but the company is no longer in business). I do remember it as a good sounding speaker. I do agree with Kink56 that there is no perfect speaker and they all have flaws. Like everything, there are trade-offs involved. However, I do not agree with ProAc being good speakers -- at least not for my tastes. They may very well be accurate in their reproduction (if that was the claim), but having listened to them a number of time at a dealer, they never did anything for me. That same dealer also carried the Thiel brand and I much preferred Thiel over ProAc. Now, that was many years ago so it could be things have changed. Everyone does have different tastes, different ears, etc., so I can't argue against anyone liking the ProAc sound. For me, I'm fortunate that I found what I really like and just as important in that regard is that the performance-to-cost ratio is extremely high compared to other quality brands. While there are many other brands I do like, all things considered, I've yet to find something I like better than Klipsch.

Congrats! Your room might not be ideal but it can still work and is better than not having Khorns! FYI: It appears that your LP shelf may be blocking one of the side exits on the right speaker. You may get improved bass if you move that shelf out of the way. Ideally, you want those side openings to be unblocked for at least four feet from the corner of the room (more is better). The walls make up part of the bass horn.

Hi Leslie, sorry for your loss. As others have stated, yes there is absolutely a market for used Cornwalls, especially those in mint condition as yours appear to be in. In case you are not aware, Klipsch still builds the Cornwall today. You've come to the best place for advice on how to sell them and in fact, there is a good chance someone from this forum will end up buying them from you. It sounds like you are in Texas. You might want to post the city you are in as Cornwalls are big and your buyer may need to make vehicle arrangements in the event you aren't just down the street.

CDs arrived about a week ago, well packed and without damage. All were as described. Thanks!

FYI: Sprint also has 4 lines for $100 for Veterans (and non-Veterans). Phones are also often buy 1 get one free.

Buy used. It's unlikely you'll get the one you really want right off the bat. Buying used allows to experiment with different amps with little to no loss upon resale if you buy wisely and decided to try something else.

All amplifiers apply their own brand of coloring. I have yet to hear a solid-state amp who's coloring is more musical to my ears than that of a good tube amp.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/263775859329

May as well start off with the GOAT. I've got her "Jazz 'Round Midnight" CD and it's pretty amazing for some of the recordings being from the '50s and '60s.

Sad news. Condolences to you and your family.

Yes

Here is the basic color I ended up with on birch veneer (pre-conditioned with MinWax pre-conditioner) and several coats of stain, followed by a couple coats of Watco Danish oil. Keep in mind variances in computer monitors and photo settings, etc. This is probably a bit darker than your speakers but the color does look close. You can't tell from this photo, but as mentioned above, after all the hand rubbing of pre-conditioner, stain, and Danish oil, the surface is glass-smooth with a shine.

I used Varathane stain with the Cognac stain color. Don't worry too much about the color that is shown on the labels as that just gives you a general idea of what it will look like. It will look different based on what type of wood it is applied to. I may have mistaken what you were describing, but what I was trying to say is that a solid piece of wood (board) will be more likely to warp as compared to plywood. Maybe that was not what you were intending and if so, ignore my comment.

Nice shot! Looks scary -- hope the driver was OK. However, I can't help but think of the irony in this photo with the "Make-a-Wish" car on fire -- reminds me of a birthday candle. P.S. These photos should go in that "Klipsch Spotting" thread (or whatever it's called).

I avoid UPS as much as possible due to bad personal experience and horror stories from others. My last UPS experience ended up with significant damage to a tube amplifier that was definitely dropped from at least waist height. A previous delivery resulted in some expensive and rare mono-blocks being delivered to the wrong house. I eventually got them, but was a bit nervous for a day or two. I have had better luck with FedEx Ground. Overall, I actually prefer USPS. They are no worse than the others in terms of damages but claims are much more likely to get paid. I've never had a claim denied.

Hi Emile, I agree that conditioner and oil alone will not get you the darkness level of that Heresy. You'll need to apply stain. However, the color I ended up with is fairly close to the color of your speakers (assuming your speakers match what I am seeing on my monitor -- which is color calibrated). I ended up slightly darker than that but of course you can stop staining when you get the darkness level you are looking for. If you are interested, I can find the brand and stain color that I ended up with. FYI: I bought about 12 or so different stain colors of various brands and stained small patches of a new piece of birch plywood from Lowe's. In regards to using pure baltic birch or void-free plywood with birch veneer is up to you. The plywood will show the plies on the edges if you don't add veneer banding, but plywood will be less susceptible to warping -- the bigger the box the more important that would be. I'd probably go with plywood if the box will be on the larger size.