avguytx

I needed to come back and update this thread. I was working on these 3 last night and apparently I had a brain cloud when I wrote that they have HDMI out. They use Display Port (DP). The connector looks similar at first glance. I'm sorry for the misdirection. If this changes your minds, I do understand. Unless you're tying it into something that uses HDMI, it won't, though. (like being used as a laptop) But there are a DP to HDMI adapters that we use here for hooking up to some things when the need arises. Again, I apologize for the error.

Two are spoken for. Thanks!

I'm going to have 3 to 5 Dell E6400 laptops up for sale soon (after the weekend hopefully). These will be Windows 7 32-bit, 4gb memory and 160gb hard drives. They will be set up with Adobe Flash, Adobe Reader XI, Java, MS Security Essentials and Open Office similar to the D630's from last year. Kind of barebones, if you will, but ready to go. They have Display Port (DP) video output plus VGA and will come with a charger, of course. They may not be the prettiest girls at the dance but do do a mean boogie. These will run most likely run about $150 shipped but I need to see what the variance is from east coast to west coast before I say exactly. First come, first served, of course. Please let me know if any questions. I'll try to get some pictures over the weekend. (edited 11.7.16 in regards to the video out)

I meant less LF extension sealed than the Belle I comparison. I was basing that comment on what was posted on the Fastlane website about the cabinet. The Mini Punch was conceived and designed by Dr. James W Cullison. The Mini Punch is a front loaded 1/4 space bass horn. (optionally ported) 70-600Hz sealed , or 40-600Hz ported. I prefer the ported version

I believe I have about 3/4 of those on vinyl and a lot on CD as well (well, on my server in FLAC now).

So if this cabinet is built as a sealed version, it has a little less bass response than the Belle with a single 15" but, done as a rear ported, it extends down to 40Hz. Correct? Are those 4" diameter ports that are used? Were they tried as front firing versus rear? I remember the KLF-30's (rear ported) sounded like crap on low end in my living room whereas the front firing ports on my CF-3's shine. It was night and day difference between the two so the KLF's were sold off. My seating position is right at 12 feet away in my living room.

Ok...found the kit pricing on web site.

So is there a price for this kit yet? Or plans for DIY? Maybe I missed the measurements somewhere. What was the $22ea woofers used?

Another question... How is the back panel (with the ramps) attached to the 4 sides ? Clamp and glue only?

Oops! I meant SET!

I'm going to order a pair of the Edcor CXPP25-8K that run right at $150 shipped. May take some time to get them but that's ok. Gotta start on the Belle bass bins now. Once I'm done with this project, I may get the courage to build your 2a3 amp, Maynard. I just need more efficient speakers than my CF-3's to do so. ha http://www.edcorusa.com/cxpp25-8k

Yeah, I saw that earlier today and went thru it. I'll most likely just stick with the K-33's. I didn't think those would work; parameters seemed way too off. With the way the Hogs have historically played, they've never been my only favorite team. Alabama and OU are my other two faves. Gotta have those since the Hogs are predictably unpredictable. ha

Awww, man. Already have them sold huh? Well get a little listen time in first.

Does the silence mean stay with the new K-33's?

The reason I ask is I have a pair of these that are basically new. (trying to remember if they are 8-ohm for sure) Or I can stick with a brand new pair of K-33's and call it good. 6 to 1, half dozen of the other, I guess.

Is there a program for running what woofer would work in the Belle/La Scala bass bin or is it more about getting in the number ranges specified? Here's the specs if there is such a beast.

I'd read somewhere where the S/C trannies were wound in house and were kind of surprising. But not sure there's any proof to back that up other than hearsay. Who knows. I've read their tunes are something to stay with in comparison to JJ's and other brands. I'd spend the couple hundred if it was truly another level. CF3's do have the ability for it as far as range.

Is that about the going rate for those?

As Maynard might say, find a console amp and rebuild it. Not a lot invested and very good return plus good power for the Belle's sensitivity. Something like a Stromberg Carlson ASR-120 or a Magnavox. Maybe I'm partial.

Do you have a buddy with another set of tower speakers you can borrow for awhile to see what their sound might be the your ears? If I were still in denton, I'd be glad to bring some Norman Lab Model 9's, JBL L100t's, Infinity Quantum 3's or RSIIIa's over to see how they worked in comparison. These direct radiators sound great and are very forgiving. Maybe that's why I like my CF3's so much....they are a different beast from the other Heritage line. Everyone hears different. No harm, no foul there for sure.

Why is this thread in Pro Audio?

OK, think I saw that you used the Hammond 1650F? Looks like around $100 at Mouser. Does that sound about right? Wouldn't these also give me more windings where it could be ran with a 4 or 8 ohm output?

Thanks for both of your input on these amps. It's been awhile since I listened to either amp (maybe winter) so I just hooked up the ASR-120. Yes, it does sound good...as I remember! It's got pretty much everything done to it except for different OPT's and that sounds like it should be the next thing to do before going to something else. All the ceramic resistors were replaced with 1% tolerance and it also uses Orange Drop caps. The multi-cap was replaced with separate caps under the chassis but the can is still in place. Also, I had broke one of the 7199's (ugh) so it was rewired for 6U8 type tubes that were sent to me by a generous fellow ok AK a few years back. I need to remove that to clean up the top area. So which transformers were used in yours JL? Maynard, what else do I do to it/them? OPT's mainly? Tubes? I'll see if I have some pics to post of it.

I thought about pocket hole screws using a Kreg jig and also brad nails for some areas. But since I'm working with Baltic Birch and not veneering anything, I was going to go the no nail or screw route in visible areas and maybe nails/screws in other obscure areas. Yep....time for a trip to Harbor Freight. They are about 40 minutes or so away...not too bad.

I have two console amps that I've owned now for close to 10 years that have been gone through and updated but not really "revamped". I know they have lots of limitations as they were designed for consoles with free air woofers with bass boost added on occasion. I have a Magnavox 9304-20 and Stromberg Carlson ASR-120 and they both do sound very good for what they are but I still know I'm missing the real tube sound. I had thought about using both of these amps for my "Belle clone build" with active or passive 2-way crossover or maybe one of my Carver amps on the low end and one or the other amps on the top end. I honestly can't afford to spend the big bucks on amps but could build a kit amp of sorts. Maybe something in the $500-ish range once these other two amps are sold. (I have a daughter that's about to head to the U of A for college so expenses are about to change even more. Thank God she's a 4.0+ student and tests well.) So current speakers are the CF-3's and eventually will be the clones but, for now, the Epics. For a little extra background, I have tinnitus so I have a constant sound I hear that some days is louder than others. My hearing just isn't what it used to be so higher end stuff, I just can't substantiate the expense since I can't tell the major subtleties. I do play things a little louder to overcome what I hear in my head so I'm thinking flea power isn't going to cut it. Maybe 10 to 20 wpc. This may not even be realistic for that budget. Maybe I need to stick with my 460wpc Carver M-1.0t amplifier and call it good. haha. My knowledge is limited on tube amps other than I can reasonably follow a schematic, own a couple of Fluke meters for testing, and am mechanically inclined and have patience. And I'm not afraid of asking questions and for help if need be. But I do appreciate any input from you guys.