avguytx

200 watts @ 1kHz and 1% distortion doesn't really equate to a ton of power when compared to something rating at full bandwidth of 20Hz to 20kHz at the same, or less, distortion figures. All that does is make it "appear" to have a lot of power. I was an Onkyo/Integra rep for 9 years (from 2000 to 2009) and I never liked how they, or other comparable companies, power rated their receivers. It's similar to how they rate the power on the cheaper HTiB receivers. Definitely a nice looking receiver and a venture away from the look of the last decade of their products. The more "normal" rating of power is on the last page of the owners manual.... Amplifier Section Rated Output Power (North American) With 8 ohm loads, both channels driven, from 20-20,000 Hz; rated 140 watts (TX-RZ900)/135 watts (TX-RZ800) per channel minimum RMS power, with no more than 0.08% total harmonic distortion from 250 milliwatts to rated output. Surround Mode Output Power (Ú) (6 ohms, 1 kHz THD 0.9%) 200 W (TX-RZ900)/185 W (TX-RZ800) per channel ＊ Reference output for each speakers

Maybe they were made on "Mary Jane Monday"? Or is that Friday?

Mills and Mundorf are definitely the resistors I would personally use. Mills has always been my "go to" as are Solen caps.

I'm still wanting to build a second set of baffles putting the tweeter on to to see how much the sound is affected. It wouldn't be too much to do as far as labor intensive.

Here's a single black La Scala in MN. But a ways off if you're in the eastern area. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/ele/5678714832.html

I'm pretty sure that's a thin wrap over the front part where the drivers are mounted. You might could touch it up with some Valspar Black Satin paint. That veneer is also painted and may work with the same paint and artists paint brush.

Gotcha.

You're saying they should be $1800 and not $600?

I would be weary of trusting what's on a schematic versus what's in the actual cabinet. To me, that's putting the cart in front of the horse. There could have been changes, alterations, etc. It's happened plenty of times with every brand. I've not seen a schematic for a CF-2 that I recall. You might email Bob Crites and see if he has anything written down on them.

If it's a cap change only, just take the crossovers out and replace with the same value caps. They aren't that bad to replace with minimal soldering skills. I've used Solen caps for the last 25+ years in most everything I've built/rebuilt for both car and home audio with great results. I've tried some of the more expensive caps but didn't hear enough difference to substantiate. But, everyone seems to be different on caps. And that's ok.

I believe the CF-2's have dual 8" woofers and the CF-1'S have 6.5".

A single cap in a high pass crossover is a 6db/octave slope. Using a cap and coil makes it a 12db/octave slope. A cap, coil, and another cap is 18db/octave and so on. Gets into what some use with the extreme slopes. Different slopes have different phase shifts. Sometimes in a 12db/octave 3-way crossover, one of the drivers has to be wired out of phase to get it back in phase. A 6db slope is 90 degrees, 12 db is 180 degrees, 18 db is 270 degrees, and 24 db is 360 degrees, or back in phase. That may not help much. A steeper slope allows less information above, or below, the crossover point to get to the driver thus keeping it from playing into an unwanted range. Narrow or steep slopes each have their advantages/disadvantage depending on what the designer is wanting to accomplish with the network and will vary depending on the drivers and application.

I do run my CF-3's on 10wpc tube amps on occasion (mainly winter) but mine sound the best on my 460wpc Carver M-1.0t amp. YMMV

1st order, 2nd order, 3rd order, etc. Meaning 6db, 12db, 18db/octave slope. It's a steeper slope as the order increases so less information below the crossover point gets thru.

Sold elsewhere

Let's say the 13uf cap is crossing over at 600Hz and up, it has no bearing on what is going on with the tweeter because the (2) 2uf caps used with the inductor creates a steeper 18db/octave high pass at, let's say, 5khz and up. Basically, the first 2uf cap could be placed on the (+) input position on the terminal strip and it would do the same thing. Dean, am I right in that?

The diagram does make it look like it's being connected after the 13uf capacitor. From the layout, it looks like it's an 18db/octave high pass to the tweeter and 6db/octave to the mid and 6db/octave low pass to the woofer. There's no bandpass filter on the mid; just a natural roll off on the high side.

I'd only be in it for the drivers and that's only if they went cheaper. But, I already have a new pair of K-33's so no love lost there.

Also saw this line and wondered if it's a misspelling or I'm missing, yet, something else... Throat dimension (with = heigh) If, let's say, the throat dimension is 3/4" (1.905 cm), there's an equation in that box. Does the 1.905 go there or does art of it get entered into that equation?

I remember that too. Something like 3/4" or so. Should I use that in the spreadsheet?

So they're referring to the driver size or the throat size? I was curious about that part. I knew the K-55 was a 2" driver and had a 1" throat but wasn't sure about what they needed. :-)

Thanks again, Bruce. Isn't the high pass cutoff on a Belle 500hz? Or is it 600? I can adjust that accordingly. I'll probably stay with the 350hz fc for the moment so they'll fit in the top section but later, I'll go to a 200hz horn when they can go on top in the open. Then, I can time align them with a tweeter on top.

The calculator shows you have to edit 4 different areas for designing a horn by throat size. I'm assuming (could be bad) that using a K-55-X or Selenium D-250X is a 1" throat size. For flare frequency, should I work with 350HZ? I've read that the frequency needs to be lower than the crossover point? Also, it shows the ratio of width to height and, if you leave it at 1.5, it makes the horn taller than it is wide and I'd rather have it wider than tall. Does the ratio need to be changed to, say, .60? If I do that, I end up with what seems to be a happy average size of 14-5/16"" wide x 8-11/32" height x 12-5/8* depth. I can build it but I really need help with this part! My best friend owns a company locally that does CAD design for steel structures, etc., and has AutoCAD where these figures can be entered in. Oh, I got the price on cost for a new pair of K-55-X's. They'll be about 4x the price at landed cost. Hmmm....

Thanks, Bruce. Am I missing where it can be changed from metric to standard dimensions? I'm wanting to calculate it for either Selenium D250x or Klipsch K-55.

Just to add a little to the above... I already have a new pair of K-33's and this goes back to my Belle clone build. They will be going in the living room for now so the clones will be built to about the same size as original; the top hat having a little room to give for mid horn size. One day when I have the attic finished out, or a different house, I can go larger horn without worry of aesthetics. I'll be using either the Selenium D-250x to start or K-55's and CT-120's or D220ti's for the HF.