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avguytx
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Posts posted by avguytx
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You could always just reset the router and start over. The tag on the bottom should have the default password and the IP address to log in with. What "unit" is upstairs that won't connect? Wired connections are definitely the best but things do work quite well on 2.4 and 5ghz wifi when need be. I have 3 access points in my house that have 3 different wifi networks on them. A 2.4ghz that covers all my IoT devices (internet of things) smart plugs, smart switches, two Nest thermostats, etc., then a 2.4ghz network for anything that can't connect to a 5ghz network. Most don't do that but will usually give you the option for two wifi networks....single 2.4 and 5. 2.4ghz goes a farther distance than 5 but 5ghz has more throughput.
I personally use Amazon Firesticks on 3 TV's but it depends on which "eco-system" you work with more. I do Google Home because of thermostats and other things I can do but like the Firesticks better, personally. I don't pay for satellite and we're not huge sports fans where I have to see every college or pro game. I just watch what's available and use ESPN app and a couple others to watch college ball for what I don't get over local channels. I despise paying for overpriced worthless TV.
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26 minutes ago, Shilly said:
Thanks for the replies. Yes both cabinets have years or rat urine in them I found one mummified rat stuck in the woofer and a live one ran out when I was removing the bass side opening. I will do the new JEM caps and reuse the rest for now, and either find some used Klipsch K33P or new Crites woofers, I have done some woodworking in the past so the cuts and angles don't look to bad to replicate but we will see.
Marvel---I am North of Seattle so a long way from AR I will try to post a couple more time with my disassembly of the cabinets.
Put them in a small room and find an ozone generator. I bought one off of Amazon, about $100 for a decent one, and used it to get a funky smell out of a '12 Nissan Titan I bought and it worked like a champ. Of course, clean that dead rat stuff and urine, too. Don't be in the room when it's running and make sure you let it air to the outside world for a good hour or so.
And I concur with @Dave MacKay Cheerleading. lol. Exactly!
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Apparently gone, which I don't doubt.
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2 hours ago, billybob said:
Someone should be scoring by now.
I messaged to see but no reply yet.
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I would personally try to repair the existing cabinets, get some new K-33 woofers if the others are bad, put them back together and see just what they sound like. Those bass bins aren't an easy build in any respect. I'd personally replace the entire crossovers versus trying to salvage what's there. Maybe some newer AA's somewhere. But put the cabinets back together unless they are warped/swolen.
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I've had 3 pairs of CF-3's, currently own version 1's, and run them typically with either a 250wpc Rockford Fosgate RF-2000 (32 MOSFET's), a modified 460 wpc Carver M-1.0t, or a Dynakit ST-70 (in the fall/winter). Out the 3, currently, the Rockford amp sounds the best; must be something about those Mosfets. I don't use all the power but they do sound good with it when the need/desire arises to play louder.
Epic's need more power in general. They are nowhere near as efficient as what their rating is, I assure you. I have a pair of ads L1230's that are rated at 95db @ 1w/1m and there is negligible difference in levels if I switch.
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4 hours ago, the real Duke Spinner said:
What are You expecting in the $200 range ? 🙄
2 years later? Lol. Sold the little eq which worked well but found a pristine AudioSource EQ-One that works great. Always wanted the Ferris Buehler EQ.
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I could have sworn mine were plywood but I'm apparently wrong. Lol
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Find some Epic CF-1'S or CF-2's which have front firing ports. Maybe even the 3's. Will be way better in that space than a rear firing passive or port.
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Asking price but not sold price.
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1 hour ago, Shakeydeal said:
Qobuz gets the slight edge in SQ. But more than that, the user interface of Amazon Music is horrible. Or at least it was last time I tried it.
It's still horrible. I dropped them again months ago. Now, I admit that I do like their various playlists which is something that Qobuz is lacking severely. About the only time Qobuz has any songs I like on a playlist, it's on that My Weekly Q. If I'm listening via Qobuz, I pretty much have to know what I'm wanting to listen to where with Spotify, which I have the Family Plan, I can just pick a playlist and let 'er rip. Just depends on the mood I guess. I just wish Qobuz would come out with a Connect feature that works as well as Spotify. Oh well.
Streamer wise, I either use the desktop apps on my Windows 10 PC or I use a WiiM Pro with their app on my phone, for Qobuz, and for Spotify, there's Connect.
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It's a thick vinyl-ish material that was most likely done with a heat press that formed the vinyl over the glued frame. After it cooled, it was probably cut at the edges. At least that's my guess. Mainly I think it's possibility because I used to be a rep for Q-Logic which was a company in Stillwater, OK that made custom kick panels for speakers and custom enclosures for subs. They heated the thick abs plastic and dropped it down onto a mold that vacuumed it in place and cooled it down. But I could be wrong.
Maybe find someone that can do that with vinyl and just have them recovered.
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Me personally, as I have a pair of awful looking satin black CF-3 v1's, I'd get everything squared up, corners, etc., and slap some new veneer on them and call it good. Those are a cinch to veneer as it's only 3 sides to be done. Use some cherry, walnut, mahogany, etc and call it a day.
Or, just repaint them satin black. That would look better than oak veneer that's splotchy anyway.
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@JoeR As mentioned in text, I will buy them.
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@JoeR Can you post a picture of the back side showing which drivers are in the top section? Also maybe a pic of the woofers. I'm about 6 hours away in central AR but I've made that drive many times. If easier on the pics due to the size limitation here, email them to me at avguytx at yahoo dot com.
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@nation45 Well, are you enjoying them so far?
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7 hours ago, konrad911 said:
I always value the view of others as this allows me te make an educated decission rather than follow the gut feeling (which sometines is aligned in the end).
critesspeakers.com have sets to rebuild the xo. I can get them on eBay (easier for me) as well, should I go for it?
Your best bet would be NOT to discuss using other brands of stuff here as they will delete your thread as they feel it takes away from their efforts. Just sayin'. To discuss other parts going in, you need to go to other forums...like AudioKarma, etc. As a bonus, you will also be able to be free of some of the ID10Tic responses on this site.
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You must have added pics from an iphone since they have the HEIC extension. So for everyone on a Windows machine wanting to see what these look like, here is a quick site where you can drag and drop to convert them to jpeg.
If you have lots of pics, why not post them to a site and link them here. That would save some steps for anyone interested. Or, maybe reduce their size on your phone and maybe convert them before attaching. I don't know...I don't use ios stuff.
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I don't feel like CAD would have to be used to build the most basic "monkey coffin" boxes. Have you taken any drivers out and looked inside? Pretty cheaply made and those back panels would be your weak link, along with the front baffle, with minimal/no internal bracing. I mean, they are just basic rectangle cabinets. I built a set of Belle inspired clones a little over 5 years ago out of baltic birch and ribbon mahogany veneer using a tape measure, pencil, paper, and the usual tools (with plans). But then again, I've built hundreds of boxes, grills, amp racks, door panels, etc., back in my 25 years of car/home audio. If you bought wood and found a cabinet shop, or maybe even a school with a CNC, they could cut those out easily for a reasonable expense. They are 35-1/2 x 15 x 14-1/4" and weigh in at a paltry 45lbs as they sit so maybe a tad larger using thicker wood and bracing. Forte's, in comparison, weighed in at 65lbs with the same drivers and similar crossover.
But I know what you mean on the "color/veneer" part. I have a pair of (102lb) Epic CF-3's that have the ugliest black satin paint job I've ever seen. I'm going to re-veneer them sometime soon as time allows.
I'm rambling...but just an opinion.
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As has been mentioned many times, the Tangent cabinets were the weak link in the chain being 5/8" wood. If I were to ever come across a set, my plan of attack would depend on the condition of the cabinets. If they were in good shape, I would just rebuild new cabinets out of either Baltic Birch or MDF, do some basic "non-crazy" bracing inside, and veneer them in whatever grain I liked at the time. Keeping them the same size means that the grills can be manipulated to go back on again. Come to think of it, I would probably do the same thing no matter what the cabinets looked like. If I were going to go to the trouble of slapping panels on the old cabinets, why not just build new cabinets; it's not rocket science and all the parts will move over.
But that's just me.
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On 3/16/2023 at 11:53 AM, nation45 said:
$90
Definitely a better price. Did you get two?
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On 3/16/2023 at 12:25 PM, winglet said:
Think you meant @Motor7
I agree though. I personally wouldn’t bother recapping if they sound good with the woofer fixed/replaced.
Is the voice coil attached firmly to the cone? If not, that could be your rattle. Nothing to lose trying to re glue it. Missing dust cap alone shouldn’t cause a rattle.
Yep....wrong one.
Different amps. I Can’t really tell differences
in 2-Channel Home Audio
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There's always a point of diminishing returns for anyone. For me, it's less money since I have tinnitus, HF hearing loss and just hearing loss in general.