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mark electro

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Everything posted by mark electro

  1. Hi Larry. Yea; somtimes I have clairity issues with my descriptions (lol). The inputs for tuner tape and aux all are reacting the same. I did not use the phono input. The funny thing about it is my anelog sources sound very, very good. And my CD players sound great direct to the amps. Only when I hook the CD players up through the pre- amp does it do this. It seems like the pre-amp is trying to drasticly boost the loud passages; like the volume goes way up. By the way the pre- amp is a NAD 1020. Is it possable it is too old to handle a CD player? I'm baffeled by this occurence.
  2. O.K. let me try to explain my situation a little better. When my CD player is hooked to the pre-amp then from pre-amp to amp: I play an acustic gutar passage that starts very softly then builds up slowly to a very explosive end. Listening toward the end the music the sound seems to get distorted even if I turn the output of the CD player to its neer minimum output. According to the specs sheet on the pre- amp; it can handle up to 10 volts input. According to the CD player specs; it can put out 2 volts. Why would the louder musical passages seem distorted? Could this be a problem with the Pre-amp or just a mismatch of components? When I run the CD player straight to the amp every thing sounds excelent. When I run a turntable or other analog source through the pre-amp then to the amp every thing sounds excellent. This condition only occures when I run the CD player through the pre-amp then to the amp. So my question is WHY? If anyone could be of any help; I sure would appreciate it. Thank you, Mark
  3. When I run my turntables, cassette deck, and my FM receiver through my pre-amp the music sounds very detailed and engaging. Normaly I run my cd players on a passive switch bypassing the Pre-amp and direct to the amp. The other day I decided to run my cd player through the pre-amp to the amp. The sound was very peaky. In other words the difference between the high volume passages and low volume passages became very drastic and exagerated when listening to a very dynamic passage. Is it possable that my cd player and my pre-amp are not matching properly? Or would it be more likely that to cd player is showing up a problem with the Pre- that the turntables,decks, and receiver are not able to show? Or...................?
  4. I carry the roto split anyway. They use a lot of MC- AP here. Has to be split. Work is the same here. Very thin.
  5. O.K. I stand corrected... BX is still code correct according to NEC 320. I just dont like it! MC is generaly the armored cable of choice.
  6. I have not used BX in any application since the mid '90's. Many electricians and inspectors consider it against code (currently) in any new application.I could be wrong but I don't think so. MC is available in aluminum and steel depending on application.
  7. I had them install "metal clad" (MC) for my audio circuits, in a barely undetectable effort to minimize RFI and EMI in and out of my house wiring for audio. I was told that BX was not used, but MC was a current code substitute.What is your understanding? See http://www.afcweb.com/pdfs/afc_cable_catalog/afc_mc_productsummary_0704.pdf Thanks -- MC is current but typicaly does not have a larger neutral.
  8. In other words should not be used in new construction. If it already is existing, no problem.The National Electrical Code covers New York too.
  9. Speakerfritz,I actually used EMT and pulled stranded wire. The pipe gives a little extra shielding. BX is no longer to current code, but would probably work as well. The main thing about the thicker neutral; is that, it will rerduce the a/c harmonics. This is the way we set up office spaces that use a lot of computer terminals. Works well for a/v as well.
  10. Hi all. I am an electrician as well. My solution was to install a small pannel in the man cave. I put a seperate 20 amp dedicated for each mono amp, 20 amp for the audio sources, and seperate 15 amp for the monitor. 12 guage Hot and ground (grounds bonded in pannel) 10 guage neutral. Larger neuteral does more than you can believe to reduce noise in the circut. Yes a larger neutral on the feeder to the pannel too. My area has moderatly clean voltage, so as of yet; I havent felt the need for an isolation transformer. Your area may be different. This has worked very well for me for years. Also doesen't cost an arm and a leg. P.S. Keep the vacuum cleaners and hair dryers of your circuts when playing your sterio. Mark
  11. Mr. Colter; your just the person I need to talk to about this. The paper lable says: H II- BR 8551664 The binding post cup says: sensitivity 1w/1m 94db spl 50hz- 20khz 4 ohm oh and a pwk logo above the binding posts. Also the woofer cone seems to have a nice shine to it, like poly or mica? I have never seen a pair of these. Were they a special edition? I'm thinking they would be a good match with my Rotel mono blocks.
  12. I'm not sure. It doesent sound bad either. On the binding post cup it states that the low end goes down to 50 hz. (like the origional Heresy's).I am also interested in why 4ohm? I would realy like to find out more about them; before I buy them.
  13. Hi all, Been away for a while. Now I have an interesting again. Anyone know anything about the 1985 Heresy II, 4 ohm, damped woofer, cane grilled, H BR's??? I found a nice pair for sale and would like to find out any info. I can about them. Thanks in advance, Mark
  14. And again: Thanks Bob. I know you are anticipating my next Question(s). It looks like any good quality cap is considerably larger; (approx. 1" x 2.5" on ave.), in a 68 uf value. Looks like all four caps together are like trying to stuff 10 pounds of *#@* in a 5 pound bag on the back of a binding post cup. Do you have a solution to this? I don't know if we are allowed to talk pricing on this site; but maybe you could e-mail me??? If you can: price for Heresy kit and possably Ct 125 Pair too. They are all on my wish list. Thanks again, Mark
  15. If you like both then you must get the live version: "NIN- and all that could have been". One of the reasons I love Klipsch speakers is because they make live recordings sound...well... LIVE! Mark
  16. Thanks Bob, I think I will be contacting you soon for a set of caps for my Heresy's. While I am at it can you let me know about my Heresy II crossovers? Maybe a schematic? Or should I plan to send them in to you?
  17. Truely sorry Bob; I always mix those two names up.So do the Sonicaps equal or exceed the OEM caps?? Mark
  18. I have read and digested the wealth of information you all have bestowed upon me. I happen to have enough back up amps to make tri amplification happen; however, I would have to purchase electronic crossovers and probably quite a lot of test equipment to make this happen. While pondering; the voice of reason walked in; (my girlfreind LOL), and said " you have a set of speakers that you only have $300. invested in, so why don't you just restore the crossovers instead of re-engineering an all ready excellent design; at great cost? " I think she might be right on this one. So for now I am going to stay with passive networks in my heresy's, and dream of the K-horns I will get one day. So the way I see it now: Which capacitors should I get and what would the differences be? I know Bob Crites uses solens. Many people use Audio Cap Theta PPT's. Yet a lot of others use Hoveland Musicaps. So let me start at the Hovelands. I notice they seem to be very robust in build quality. Will the 16ga. braided leads help to lower the ESR even further? Also what sound inprovement could I expect? Will the sound be smoother? Now the Audio Cap Theta's: look like they are well built. Will the gold plated leads bennifit me.What can I expect from their sound and smoothness? Solens definatly the best value; but it seems a lot of people don't care for them. Why? And I guess the next question would be: Will they approach the sound quality of the OEM Aerovox, paper in oil, capacitors? Will the Audio Cap's or the Hoveland's meet or beat the quality of the of the OEM caps? Maybe some of you have some experience with this delema I now face? I would like to restore my speakers to OEM or a bit better; on a buget.
  19. Tom, Maybe you could explain some (I won't argue). Also If you know of a few threads of interest? I was kind of thinking about AudioCap Thetas; However, I kind of like the thought of bi- amping and steep crossovers in a proven design. That is a concept that I haven't thought about with klipsch speakers.
  20. Thank you Larry. I think my file size might be the problem. I'm still learning how to move pictures around the computer. Now I'll have to figure out how to change the file size. Mark
  21. Is the avatar the little picture that comes up over the joined date and number of posts? If that is the avatar; how do I bring a picture from windows album, in? I would like to set up my info and its starting to frustrate me! Can any of you all help straighten me out? Thanks, Mark
  22. I am thinking that I should upgrade my caps, however I am still hearing a big difference between poorly recorded music vs. well produced. Also my soundstage is absolutly captivating and very detailed; with a fairly wide sweet spot. Is it possable that I have just got a lucky break with my caps? The caps have to be bad; right?????????????
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