rbakedq

BouBou: Follow the link below for what I did, for a similar situation as yours. A bit more elaborate than Max2, but not much. As he indicated, it helps to have a good table saw. Particularly the 45 deg. cuts on the 2x6 that is bolted to the tail board. Hopefully, you can see from the pictures, that instead of screwing into the side grill braces, I used eye bolts and Molly bolts to snug the back boards in. My method may be unnecessarily elaborate. Rich https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/98322-khorn-60th-anniversary-style-backs/?hl=rbakedq

Dimitry, since you have wooden floors have a look at how I did my 60th anniversary style backs. Just follow along with the pictures in the link below. https://picasaweb.google.com/115266395444773202379/Khorn60thAnniversaryStyleBacks# Rich

Ok that is what it looked like. Great job, even more simple than mine. http://picasaweb.google.com/rbakedq/Khorn60thAnniversaryStyleBacks# is a link to a few pics on how I did mine.

Davis: you did your backs very much as I did mine. How did you attach your backs to the speakers? what did you screw them into? I screwed the rear edge of my backs to a tail board extension, and I use eyebolts and toggles to secure the front edge to the Grills. Very solid. I also sealed them up with weather stripping and felt. Rich.

I posted a link above, to pictures of how I did my backs.

If you go to the following link you can see how I did the backs. They turned out much better than I expected, and not very hard to do. http://picasaweb.google.com/rbakedq/Khorn60thAnniversaryStyleBacks# Parts list: 8' 2x10, 4x8x3/4" mfd, eye bolts, toggle bolts, screws, weatherstip, felt and paint Rich

I have to agree with Kent. The Manley Stingray is a great sounding amp and matches very well with the Khons. You can see what is in my current system, and all I can say is that it is a toss up between tthe two setups. The 2A3's have their own thing, but when I really want to rock out, I go down stair and pull the Stingray out of the pool room system and put it in the main system. Rich

To be clear I have good corners. My problem is that because of the wainscoating I can not get a good seal with pipe foam. I did use memory foam, and that did work, but the backs are better and it is easier to move them around. Rich

This is what I did: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/109982/1108625.aspx#1108625 Rich

Yes, only a few holes. I do like the ALK ES Xovers. Is that what you have? Rich

You can also take a look at what I did. Very easy, and it works. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/109982.aspx Rich

Coytee: I did missinterpret you post sorry. I read it on my Blackberry so it did not come across as you meant. Also, I could not tell the pic was a Bong!!! makes much more sense.

Maybe I will just delete the post or the link to the photos. Lets just leave it that backs make NO differece what so ever. I have done other mods and updates, but give the responce from some posters I am not going to post them. I thought I was trying to help others. I am PUFFING now: I think what I came up with is clever, easy to do, low in cost, and accomplishes what false corners and backs are supposed to do. Bye.....

Dean is correct what I am hearing is more of what is already there. Compared to the memory foam I was using, the bass is tigher with the backs. Compared to nothing, just somewhat tigher. Rich.

Rick; I think much improved. Deeper a tightrer bass. And yes I did it because I wanted to be able to angle them better. I also, was having problems getting them sealed using foam. Groom, In my case, no need for a bottom as I have wood floors. I sealed the bottom of the tail board and the backs with felt. Rich

If you go to the following link you can see how I did the backs. They turned out much better than I expected, and not very hard to do. http://picasaweb.google.com/rbakedq/Khorn60thAnniversaryStyleBacks# Parts list: 8' 2x10, 4x8x3/4" mfd, eye bolts, toggle bolts, screws, weatherstip, felt and paint Rich

I have the biggest ones on my pool house. NAD reciever and a Sqeezebox 3. Sounds great. Rich

Looks cool, but it does not do FLAC. Rich

No I got it. I have been on this forum for a number of years after I got my Khorns. For some reason though I could not login under my old ID, so I gave up and created a new one. I was using 1.5" AC foam to seal the tail board, but felt that was not enough. I was hoping someone could give me some guidance regarding the vinyl flooring ala the stair tread method described in the old owner’s manual. However, I showed the wife the problem, and see came up with the memory foam idea. It works very well. If I had to do it again though, I think I would just use two layers of memory foam stapled front and back. Rich

That is basicaly what I did. 3/8" rubber pipe insulation top to bottom filled in the larger gaps with 1/2" PI, then over that 1 1/2" thick memory foam from a bed pad the dog chewed up. Rich

Coytee: thank you. I have been through that thread. I am trying to avoid a lot of wood work. What I am looking for is thoughts on the Stair tread Idea. What I am thinking is that if 6” rubber stair tread will work then, the vinyl flooring that I have should work and might be even better because I can make it wider and thicker by using multiple layers. Rich

I have read most of the post on corner sealing, and have tried using foam pipe insulation, but have not been able to get a tight seal. The problem is that, while I have good corners, I also have wainscoting that comes up the wall 30” and has irregular contours, with distances from the tail board to the wall varying from 1” to over 3”. After looking at the various options: false corners: PIA, cutting a new tailboard to contour the wainscoting: PIA, or trying multiple layers of foam carpet underlayment, my last thought was to do something similar to the old Khorn instructions that said to use a strip of rubber stair tread tacked along the tail board. However, instead of using stair tread, I was thinking of using say 12” or wider (this where I could use some guidance) strips of thick vinyl flooring in two or three layers. I would also then be able to seal the top hat with the foam pipe insulation that I have. Has anyone tried this and will it provide a good seal? Thanks Rich.