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Forte Too

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Everything posted by Forte Too

  1. Dang they look good! I have a set of mid 70's that I want to veneer in Ebony or Rosewood. I have never veneered anything, so I am a little nervous. Thanks for the posting and the inspiration! If I move forward, I'll post some picks.
  2. This is the EXACT project I want to do, except with Ebony wood veneer!
  3. I'm looking to buy a set of Cornwall. I keep seeing Cornwall I's up for sale, but not many Cornwall II's. I know the speaker layout is different and so are the crossovers. How do the two different versions compare to each other? Any huge issues either way? Any help is TRULY appreciated. Thanks group!!
  4. Ugh....OK the loudness button was on. That fixed to bass issue. Thanks for all the help. BUT I lost the right side on both speaker 1 & 2. WTH?? I kept playing with the loudness button. Pressing it in and out again and again. The right side came back but then lost it again. The volume pot needs to be cleaned, there is a lot of cracking when you adjust the volume. I left the unit off for an hour. When I turned it back on, the right side was back. Any ideas?
  5. I have a new (to me) set of Hersey I speakers. I played them with my Mac 6500 at my office and they sounded fine. I brought them home and hooked them up to the Marantz 2330 B, and the problem began. The bass is out of control. I had to turn the bass dial almost all the way to the left. The Marantz amp is factory from the 70's, all original caps. My question is what would cause this? I had the Marantz hooked up to a set of klipsch horns and they sounded ok. No real excess bass. Not the case now. Any ideas????
  6. It appears so. I cannot get the backs off. I think the bass response is the amp. I played them with my MA6500 and they sounded fine. I brought them home and hooked them up to a Marantz 2330 B and the bass response is really there. Completely overpowering the speaker. I had to cut the base almost completely out. Not sure why....
  7. Here are some pictures. The bass response is really good on these. I am wondering if the bass driver has been replaced? Production date is 1978.
  8. I picked up a set of sight unseen Hersey's yesterday. They were price right so I said ok. I was out of the office when they were delivered. They are consecutive S/N speakers, early 70's. Here is my question, on the back of one of the speakers, it appears that someone tried to remove the back panel and could not, so they used a skill saw to cut out the joint. I guess they assumed the joint was glued and they wanted to cut out the glue area where the back meets the sides. Looks like they glued it back with either an expanding glue, like gorilla glue or foam. The back is flush and you can't tell from the front. It just bothers me. Has anyone else seen this. Now I want to take the back off to see if the drivers have been replace. Also I noticed last night when I carried the speaker into the house, I had the speaker horns pointed towards the ceiling when I was carrying them, and there was something loose inside the other speaker. It's not loose when the speaker is sitting correctly on the ground, only when it is pointed towards the ceiling. How are the crossovers mounted inside the Hersey? What else could it be? The cones & horns seem tight.
  9. Gilbert - just my VERY Humble opinion here but if the glass is good, and the unit works and is in the condition you described: Low $1,500 Medium $2,100 High $2,500 Now, if it had been reconditioned and it was working at 100% with solid tubes, High would probably be $3,250.
  10. I sent him a message earlier about a LaScala Re-Build and really don't want to bother him, but I'm sure he would know. He is a WEALTH of information on this site.
  11. Thanks. So this was the 16432 K-Horn built and they were constructed in 1980. Now, what about the "RC"? And was it normal to order just the base bin?
  12. OK. Here is a serial number on a K-Horn: 17U432 I am guessing these were manufactured in 1980. What does the 17 stand for and what does the 432 stand for? The odd thing is the top section is NOT a Klipsch product, but has Klipsch Horns and Crossover. The paper sticker is gone, except for what is under a piece of wood screwed to the back. Under the serial number is "USA" and under USA is "RC". This is stamped next to the access door. Was it normal to sell just bottom cabinets for K-horns? I posted a picture.
  13. Matt - Do you do your own cane covers or to you get them somewhere? I am just about to start a pair of LaScala's. They bottoms were busted out to rob the driver. (I have a set of K-horns that were damaged in a flood that I am robbing the components) I have to install a new bottom board then sand the old black paint off. Then wood filler and more sanding. I planed on priming them then spraying them with two coats of black lacquer, then buffing with a paste wax. I want to use grill covers, but don't have a source.
  14. Those turned out beautiful! Hope mine look half as good when I'm done.
  15. Just wondering, where did you find the stock cabinets and what did you give for them? I just purchased a set of early 1980's LaScala cabinets that need LOTS of work for $165.
  16. The insurance company did pay the policy limit of $5,000 on contents. So they did the right thing. I can't say anything bad about Travelers. They were quick to respond after I provided a replacement quote. I am looking forward to the project. Hey, I saved a set of LaScala's from the dump and I am learning a lot about one of my favorite speakers. Plus I get to play around. I'm reading on LaScalas. I ran across a post that was interesting. It valued "Crate" (handles, corner guards, etc) LaScalas higher than a home pair. I am wondering why? Anyway, I plain to have fun with these. At $165 for both cabinets, I can't go too wrong. Just REALLY wish the guy had discovered the upper access before he tore the bottoms out.
  17. I'm in Shreveport, LA. I purchased a set out of Springfield, MO. They will need a lot of work but the price was right. I'll post pictures when I'm done. The current owner knocked to bottoms off to remove the driver. After I get them in my workshop, I will determine if the bottoms can be reattached or if new bottoms need to be fabricated. They also have carrying handles and corner protectors. I plan on removing both of these and patching them. After that, I plan to sand, prime and paint them in black lacquer. codewritenfool suggested I remove the upper access panel and close off the back of the HiFi section and add ports up there. May try it. It shouldn't be too hard.
  18. Travelers paid the policy limit of $5,000 on content once they received the quote on a new pair. And I got to keep the speakers. I'm chasing down a pair of LaScala cabinets now for $165. (plus $300 transportation) Hopefully I can get them and put the components in them. I won't feel so bad about the Bob Crites rebuilt crossovers and tweeters going to waste.
  19. Totally weird you posted about the MWM. I started searching for a pair of LaScala and ran across a guy selling two pair and a set of MWM's. I would have had no idea what they were. I'm tempted to buy them in case I ever open a concert venue. lol. Thanks again. Always looking to learn something new.
  20. I really wished I loved closer to some of you on this thread. I would like to hang out for a few weekends and learn about tub amp construction. I ran across this thread when I searched to forum for Magnavox Amp 175-67. I wanted to learn more about removing one from a console and rebuilding. I must admin, I am a bit overwhelmed and in awe of ya'll.
  21. Here is the insurance paperwork. I was incorrect. $131.52 is the value of the speaker.
  22. Thanks. He was supposed to send me some pic's via text. Never got them, but they are just as he described. It's about a 16 hour drive for me (round trip).
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