Rich_Guy

Yes they do, what are the price points for the three wood Heritage headphones? Everything is looking very nice this year by Klipsch.

There are some singles listed on ebay, used $800 in NY local pickup only and new $1,099 free shipping. It will probably be pretty hard to find many people with singles for sale.

Yes thanks, this is one of the best, I've seen this before but I had lost the link to it.

No the number of wires would make no difference in brightness, although other factors can control its brightness, just as bi-wiring won't make your system louder.

Electrical current has a draw of current, this is why a 100w light bulb uses more than a 60w bulb. The electric current travels very much like a river both being pushed and drawn along its course and a variety of things will control this, at the source, the destination and the course along the way.

Since the draw of the electricity is different at the low and high frequency drivers the current travel is slightly different through each wire when they are separated (bi-wired) rather than using a shared wire. Think of this as a single lake that supplies two rivers going to two different locations, if the demand is higher at one location than the other the river flow will be different even though both rivers start from the same source. Bi-wiring takes advantage of these differences and the result can be a very slight difference in the overall clarity, some people feel this is worth it while others don't. Everyone's hearing and listening is also different and many people will not hear or care about the differences and call it just snake oil making this one of those often hot topics among different people. If you want to bi-wire do it, if you don't then don't.

Wow he certainly was in a lot more than I remembered. RIP

I completely agree. However bi-wiring increases the physical size of the wire gauge at the connector, it is not quite the same as using the larger gauge wire. So using 12 gauge wire bi-wired is basically still the same as using 12 gauge wire (not 9 gauge). You are still using a 12 gauge wire just separating the Hi/low frequencies. My fronts and center I use Mogami 2921 cable which is 4 strands of 13 gauge so I'm running 13 gauge bi-wired wire, which I feel is plenty for the 15 ft aprox longest run of my front cables. My surrounds I am running a larger 12 gauge wire which is not bi-wired and the longest run is aprox 35 ft. I am definitely not in the bigger must be better crowd.

GLS states their locking bananas "work best" with 10-18 gauge wire. If you double 12 gauge wire it is the equivalent of 9 gauge. My guess is that bi-wired 12 gauge wire will work fine, if it does not fit the worst case would be losing a couple strands of wire to make it fit but I doubt that it would be necessary. The Mogami 2921 wire I am using has about 13 gauge wire which doubled becomes the equivalent of 10 gauge and there seems to be plenty of clearance for more.

You probably should try another cable and see if that fixes things. I have never once had any handshake issue between my Onkyo and Panny or anything else for that matter. But I have also never needed an hdmi cable over 20 ft long, my longest cable is a 20 ft from Monoprices Luxe Series. http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Index?keyword=luxe+series+hdmi

Yes SMALL/LARGE is a deceiving name for this setting, a better name would be SUBWOOFER/NO SUBWOOFER. If you are using a a good well matched subwoofer for your system you should set all your speakers to SMALL and then set the crossovers to a good setting point to blend your sub and speakers together. LARGE or Full Range is for no subwoofer being used.

I disagree, I prefer to use the lowest crossover to match the speaker capabilities of each speaker to a well blended point with the subwoofer and that speaker. This varies on the speakers and subwoofer being used. If the speaker permits I prefer the speaker to produce the bass rather than the sub down to about 50hz. Everyone's ears vary and at some point low frequency bass becomes unable to be detected from what direction it comes from. The lower crossover setting provides a more localized bass, this is especially important with music but also helps with HT as well. With a good blend with your subwoofer you should get the most from your speaker and the subwoofer will disappear and become an undetectable extension of the speakers bass.

Your fronts would be where you should use the lowest setting, depending on what your actual speakers are you are using of course. But your RF-7ii's will be where your lowest setting should be, your RC-64ii and RB-81 should be about 10 or so higher than the RF-7ii

Yes set all speakers to SMALL when using a subwoofer. For your RF-7ii's I'd recommend a lower crossover setting than 80hz, try experimenting with settings between 50hz and 80hz for the RF-7ii and see what you prefer.

A very nice deal for someone local

Yep, I've never seen a real Big Mac that looked like this. But some photos of your speakers would help to show us if they are unusual.

Using high priced Snap-On sockets, now that's just snake oil everyone knows that cheap Harbor Freight sockets would have worked just as well. .

Rock radio dj legend Bob Coburn passed away Saturday after losing his battle with lung cancer, he was 68. Very sad news, "BC" Bob Coburn "The Godfather of Rock" has been a well known rock dj voice in Southern California for several decades. Bob Coburn the long time host of Rockline was a major dj on Southern California's best rock stations, KMET, KLSX and KLOS, he will be missed. RIP BC

That was very low indeed, there are two pairs on ebay right now one pair at $650 and one pair at $675. That seems to be what I have seen them selling for around here on Craigs List as well. I absolutely love mine, I have had them since 2001 and I don't think I will ever sell them. I just keep making other changes to my system that make them sound better and better.

I use bi-wired 13 gauge on my fronts and center and I use regular single wired 12 gauge for my surrounds. On my fronts and center I am using Mogami 2921 which is an extremely nice studio grade wire. It's ultra flexible and just seems to bring out every detail a little cleaner, but it is not cheap either at $4.98 a foot for bulk wire. Link for Mogami wire An inexpensive budget version could be Monoprice wire around $0.42 a foot for bulk wire (14 gauge) Link for Monoprice wire You can make your cables look nicer by using Techflex sleeving Link for Techflex sleeving Also use of heat shrink tubing and cable pants can make your cables have a more finished and attractive look Link for cable pants It's not hard to make your own speaker cables and you can easily make them look very nice as well if you want.

GLS Audio are my favorites, excellent bananas and at good prices, they have several styles to choose from my favorites are the locking style. Right now there's a special free shipping and a 15% off discount with the promo code 15PC1216 good til Dec 19th You will find their bananas here https://www.glsaudio.com/Banana-Plugs_c_1098.html Here's a pic of mine. A picture of my cables I made before the bananas were installed. These are the locking style which expand the tip as you screw the outer case tighter locking the bananas on very tightly.

You sure gotta purdy set a reels.

You should list your RC-7 in the Garage Sale section here, they normally sell pretty quickly.

You can argue that with the Audyssey founder. Personally, I run Audyssey and after that I prefer to make my own changes which include setting my speakers to SMALL (if needed) re-setting my speaker distances to the actual real distances and re-setting my speaker levels with my own SPL meter at my main listening position.

Use ALL available positions, different versions of Audyssey have different amounts of positions available