BE36
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Posts posted by BE36
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I would recommend separates/Tubes (NOS Valves VRDs Favorite - Stronger Base with same silky smooth Midrange vs McIntosh MC240) for warmth reasons if K-Horns are stock with Stock Midrange drivers.
Since you prefer singe solid state I would look at a used McIntosh (MC126) to stay on warm side to complement K-Horn midrange . . .
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When talking power Horn speakers compared to conventional speakers are like comparing motorcycles to cars. 120HP motorcycle is hard to hold onto but pathetic in an SUV.This is a hotly debated topic in HT circles, and shows up here about annually.
My approach to this is entirely practical. Meaning, I really have a hard time lusting after that Bulter Audio 5150 or Krell power amp when my Fluke (which can capture a single impulse peak at up to 4 kHz) is clearly indicating that even my paltry, little 65W Panny has 12 dB still on tap while the La Scala are dishing out an F5 tornado in the living room
The fully horn-loaded crew get to work this discussion from an entirely different angle....while eating our ice cream of course. Power is simply not the issue.
If a power amp is to surpass my current AVR in sound quality, it'll be not because of more headroom, but rather that it can do something else differently upstream. I don't discount the pohssibility of something sounding better one bit, but at this point the addition of discrete channel EQ, better filters, and time alignment would yield more profound improvements to my sound than simply an additional 3-4 dB of headroom.
VRDs in Penta mode, 60w channel, is more than required at 9 feet - if 1 watt for 104dB at 3 feet, 9 watts are required at 9 feet. Throw in a few watts for headroom there you go. PWK only need 5 watts for music since at the time recording was limited to 80dB range and he was listening to classical not watching Transformers.
Speaker placement, wall location, wall rigidty and materials are biggest factors in sound quality. If room is not correct shape, walls are flimsy getting good sound without room correction is impossible.
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Before selling my Forte IIs hooked them up to my McIntosh Pre-amp & Amps plenty loud on 40 watts in my smallish room and really good sound, very close to LaScalas. A Yamaha or similar with room correction used as a pre coupled with a used Mc-7106 amp, less than $1,200, should be a killer set-up. Amp could be added later. Just make sure receiver model has Pre-outs, need to be high enough in model lineup to get them in some brands.
Started out with Fortes and Higher end Pioneer receiver, coupling Adcom amps to it was an improvement especially for bass. Mc-Intosh was a big step-up for vocals without a drop-off in bass. (Sub handled 80hz and below)
Sorry did notice budget at first, still I would get receiver with room correction that has an amp then upgrade to a Mc-7106 or similar later after saving up if Watching Concerts or listening to music.
FYI - Fortes are sensitive to distance from both side wall and wall behind speaker. Would recommend getting placement optimized before running room correction.
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When I am being an Engineer watching TV, I wish those bars on the side were a little darker, when watching a movie they are not there and I have never said I wish there was a little more shadow detail during a good movie.Of course they are. They are sales people. Lol
2.35 AT Screen - More of audiophile then videophile.
My screen was $500 and works if sitting 9' feet away with 1080. 4K will likely require an upgraded screen but that appears to be 2 years away due to cost and amount of movies/TV available.
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Not needed no. You can run them off just your avr or any nice ss amp. A few watts is all they need. 3 of those would be a great upgrade from 82s. Can you fit one for a center?Thank you everyone for your suggestions! I'm definitely interested in a La Scala setup. Do you think tube amps will be needed with this setup for home theater use?
Agree tube amps are not required especially if 90% Movie. For movie I lean towards Solid State and keeping La Scalas stock unless Movies are musicals. Also agree 3 front speakers being same is important.
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Many updates but if your Left Front and Right Front speakers at not set to the same distance this one should be big improvement.
Release date: April 30, 2014.
Category: Latest Public Beta Test Release
Main Version: BDP10X-75-0430B
Loader Version: 6U1000 or 7B1300 (BDP-103), 7B1300 (BDP-105, BDP-105D, BDP-103D)
Sub Version: MCU103-05-0916 (BDP-103), MCU105-04-1113 (BDP-105), MCU13D-01-0618 (BDP-103D), MCU15D-01-0930 (BDP-105D), DB10X 131030 (BDP-103D, 105D)
Special Notice:
1. Once this Public Beta firmware is installed on the player, you can revert back to the previous Official release via a USB thumb drive. There will be no issues upgrading to any future official or beta firmware release.
2. Due to the extensive changes in this major firmware update, it is required that the user performs a "Reset Factory Defaults" operation after the firmware is installed. Please write down your special settings before doing this, and remember to re-apply your settings and adjust the proper volume level (if applicable) before you play any content. You may experience stability issues if this step is not performed.
Release Notes:
1.Fixed a bug in calculating acoustic propagation delay from the "Speaker Distance" parameters of the "Speaker Configuration" setting.
2. Upgraded the Netflix application to the latest version certified for OPPO BDP-10x models. This version features a brand new user interface. It also contains improved adaptive streaming technology which will improve streaming quality for high-speed internet connections. The new Netflix application should help customers who have reported poor streaming quality during peak hours. (On a related note, recently customers reported that Netflix streaming on OPPO players and other streaming devices could become unstable with error message like "not connect to internet". In our experience this issue is not caused by the player or its firmware update. It could be either a server-side problem or an Internet traffic problem. Should this happen to your device, please report the outage to Netflix. Netflix recommends a troubleshooting method of de-activating the device and re-activating it. De-activation can be done from the OPPO player’s setup menu (Setup -> Device Setup -> Netflix -> De-activate). Re-activation can be done by accessing the Netflix application from the Home Menu. In most cases, Netflix service can resume working after a few tries. The new Netflix application in this update contains additional network troubleshooting tool which can be used to test your connection to Netflix servers.)
3. Added the "Digital Concert Hall" application from Berliner Philharmoniker, which provides live and recorded classical music concerts in HD video from leading orchestras all over the world. Removed the "Film Fresh" application which is no longer functional due to the service provider stopping the service.
4. Improved Gapless Playback performance. Resolved issues such as the second track playing twice before moving to the third track, and resolved an issue where the Gracenote information could not be fetched when playing WAV files.
5. Resolved an issue where user settings (Size, Distance, Trim) inside the Speaker Configuration were incorrectly applied to the Headphone Out signal route. We revised the algorithm in this firmware and the Headphone Out signal is no longer affected by the Speaker Configuration changes.
6. Added a safety feature for BDP-103/103D: the "SACD Output" format is set to "PCM" by default. The reason is that the digital-to-analog converter (DAC) used on these two models cannot adjust the volume for DSD signals, so the analog volume level could automatically switch back to 100 when a DSD stream is detected. This safety feature will force the DSD stream to be decoded as a PCM stream before sending it to the DAC, which can help control the volume when loading SACD disc(s).
7. Added support for the "4Kx2K@50/60Hz" resolution to the BDP-103D/105D (HDMI 1 only, and in YCbCr 4:2:0 format only). The "4Kx2K Output" setting for the BDP-103D/105D is set to "Auto 4K 50/60Hz 4:2:0" by default.
8. Resolved an issue of “Reset Factory Defaults” not erasing the user account for the Youtube Leanback application.
9. Resolved an "A/V Sync" related issue where the A/V Sync data was not be automatically applied to the Coaxial and Optical digital audio outputs after the player was powered on.
10. Improved the file sorting algorithm for the media center (the Music, Photo and Movie options on the Home Menu). The player can automatically detect numbers located at the beginning or end of the filenames and sort the files by the numeric value. Albums with numbered tracks will play in the proper order.
11. Extended support for the PCM audio format for up to 24-bit, 352.8 kHz / 384 kHz via the USB DAC IN port (BDP-105D only).
12. Added the timing adjustment for external subtitles. This can be accessed from the "Option" menu -> "Subtitle Adj." -> "Sync." when playing movies from a USB flash drive or external hard drive.
13. A new version of the Windows driver for the USB Audio DAC is available for download here (v2.22). It is compatible with BDP-105, 105D and the upcoming headphone amplifier HA-1. Please uninstall the previous version(s) of the OPPO USB DAC driver from your computer before installing this new one.
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K Horn Grills Leaving for Iowa.-
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Just top but two are in front of you.
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K-Horn Grills 10 x 12 x 36 13 lbs. ready to ship.
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Glad you can use them. I bought them to use as surrounds but then realized drains from new bathroom had to go from first floor to Basement and there was only one wall were that was possible. . .I've already received these cool speakers. They are in great shape and were packed well. You've started something here LOL. I'm gonna install these in my family room as part of a 5.1 surround system. Thanks again as your generosity has me embarking on a new speaker setup!
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RCX-4 and SCW-2 have been Shipped.
Someone has clam on Grills and Phono - Tomorrow I will look for boxes.
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Looks like RCX-4 will be gone soon.
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SCW-2 Are gone.
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I would love to get the SW 2s if can ship? Happy to pay for it!
I will look for box.
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Forum has helped me, time to give back to a good home - not reseller.
RCX-4 (Silver) and SW-2 have never been used, only powered to verify they work.SW-2 includes grills that can be painted.Can arrange Pick-up only in Metro Detroit, between Detroit and Grand Rapids on I-96 or between Detroit and Lexington/Louisville along I-75.
No boxes except
RCX-4.Will only Ship RCX-4 if shipping is at least partially funded via paypal.Will split.
Tried to give the K-Horn grills away before but got busy and had airplane troubles, If that member is still out their they get first dibs.
Send E-mail.
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RS-7s make a surprising good Timbre match to La Scalas.
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For reference, I sit 14' away from the drivers. The most I thought my house could stand was 110dB @ 10Hz. The measurements were taken at the seated position using the correction table for the Radio Shack meters. Cutting that in half would be around 100 dB@ 10 Hz, roughly 110 dB @ 20 Hz.
I'm sure someone could figure out just how loud that is at the drivers but it was crazy in the house. Any doors that were shut were shaking like someone was trying to get in. The windows in the back of the house were bowing visibly, the ceiling fans in the adjacent room were actually turning slowly and that's with the drivers I have. Yours will displace about a liter more (for the set) and have about 3mm more Xmax.
For reference, I sit 14' away from the drivers. The most I thought my house could stand was 110dB @ 10Hz. The measurements were taken at the seated position using the correction table for the Radio Shack meters. Cutting that in half would be around 100 dB@ 10 Hz, roughly 110 dB @ 20 Hz.
I'm sure someone could figure out just how loud that is at the drivers but it was crazy in the house. Any doors that were shut were shaking like someone was trying to get in. The windows in the back of the house were bowing visibly, the ceiling fans in the adjacent room were actually turning slowly and that's with the drivers I have. Yours will displace about a liter more (for the set) and have about 3mm more Xmax.
Iam too old for this thread. . .
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Cost is getting close but I'm not following the logic. I would understand if one DD15 was equal to the (4) 18's he is considering. My guess is 1-2 of those 18's would best the velodyne
No logic trying to learn more, putting two IB in different locations in the room would probably be better than one dd15 and better than two IB in same location?
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4 -18's or a single 15 and the 15 cost more....that's a hard sell.Four 18" drivers and amp is getting close to costing as much as a used Velodyne DD15. . .http://www.ebay.com/itm/Velodyne-DD-15-Powered-Subwoofer-/171212669738?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item27dd12032a
I can build anything. That's not a problem.
Aim positive you can build it, costs are getting close.
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Four 18" drivers and amp is getting close to costing as much as a used Velodyne DD15. . .
Goes down to 9 Hz, 15Hz is -3dB.
My Velodyne SPL-15, not as good or low as the DD, on a cement floor in the basement shakes the whole house including the second story, just ask my children that sleep on the second floor. Feel bass in my chest and rear end (couch shakes). Auto calibration to room works great.
I do not know any thing about IB subs - Have only owned sealed Velodynes. Would love to Audition Tapered Horns and IB. From what I have read and your skills I thought you might build a Tapered Horn for fun of it and cost / output advantages.
Maybe you could build both Tapered and IB and sell one or tune one for music and the other for movies?
I may try dual 30 Hz Tapered horns in couple of years, they fit my space and hopefully be more geared towards music while still being acceptable for HT.
Given the size of your room location of the sub(s), firing direction and having multiple subs may be just as important as sub type.
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You have skills and space to build a horn loaded Sub.Alright Gentlemen....the moment you have all been waiting for.
I am looking into building a better sub. I have room for IB sub with the workshop on the other side of the wall.
I have a single 15" now and want to take it to the next level. I drop out below 40Hz and even my wife has noticed it and suggested since we have a common interest we should see how much it would cost.
Thinking about a pair of 18's, but open to suggestions. Especially specific models for subs and amps.
Cost will be the limiting factor as with any project, but not looking to half do it.
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How many feet is the main viewing seat from your TV?
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Sorry I missed this question.Don't want to stray, but does the rock wall behind the rfs affect the sound in any way either positive or negative?
I had concrete block behind them before the stone. I can't tell any difference. I think both do a good job of bass reinforcement.
Concrete or rock both work well for bass as long as wall is rigid. Orchestra Hall in Detroit has very good sound, one of the keys is block construction that does not flex, if walls flex, bass gets muddy.
Stone on side walls would help break up reflections and work like acoustic panels. We have highly textured walls in HT room that both help work like acoustic panels and make the wood stud / drywall wall much stiffer.
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That is exactly what I did with mine. Movies, Football, and Gaming. All needed to be great. Constant Width screen with electric masking top/bottom fit the bill nicely for me.FYI format ratio matters. I have a constant height screen due to room limitations and WAF. Works good for TV/sports at 80 inches, diagonal for 16:9, then 2.35:1 movies are more immersive at 100 inches. Actually prefer constant height for this reason, movies are bigger than TV. Will this be for TV, Movies or both? If mainly for TV you may want to do the opposite of me and go constant width to maximize 16:9 TV and only loose a small amount when watching a movie..
To me a scope screen is a great fit only if you don't watch much TV or game.
I would think most people on forum would be best served with constant width, math works the best to get best compromise on both screen sizes 2.4 and 16:9.
Since we do not watch much TV, kids have 50" plasma, with Adcom/B&W for gaming, wife has 52" LCD, 70% + is for movies, and room limitations, maxing screen size for movies , constant height, makes the most sense for me.
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Need a dead quiet amp for my khorns now....
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted · Edited by BE36
FYI I had issues with hum and noise, Klipsh are reveling of everything that is on recording, fixed most of the issues with good grounding and good pre-amp. Good amp resolved last 10%. Now is recording is "Black" sound is also Black, some recordings though are impossible to get black background unless they get remix at a good studio . . .
Almost forgot dimmer switches in of position was another key to low noise.