Stone

I'm pretty sure you have to have a decoder to produce the 5.1 DD with satellite systems. I don't know if cable companies offer it or not, but you'd need some sort of add on decoder like that I would imagine. Otherwise your in stereo. Either way it's a digital signal and I personally would run it through my HT speakers over my TV's...

/me slaps 'high fives' with the rest of the crew...

I had to return my dvd player(sony dvp 360) recently and play my first dvd on it since the exchange. Every time I played a movie it said 5ch stereo in the receivers display. I could not get it to say DDigital for anything. When I switched over to dts I got no sound at all. After about 10-20 minutes of going back and forth trying to figure what was going on it dawned on me I need to go in and configure the settings in my DVD players menu.(such as turn dts on!) Now everything works as it should. I suspect you need to do the same thing...

Think of a horn kinda like cupping your hands around your mouth as you shout at a football game. Instead of letting sound disperse in all directions, you localize the sound to whom your shouting at. Same principle as a horn.

quote: Originally posted by boa12: i think ch is talking about dolby digital vs. DTS. Actually the topic says 5ch stereo vs DTS mode...

Well first,I have the 3300 and it doesn't switch automatically. I have to go in the settings for the movie and select it. When you say you your listening in 5 channel mode do you mean 5ch stereo or 5.1 Dolby Digital?

The Rf-3 will be more localized. They should sound better if your in the "ideal" listening position. The Rs-3 produces sound over a wider area and will give every listener in the entire room at least a decent sound. I think alot of it depends on your room and how your seats are arranged.

Well, first of all my M&K isn't an exact cube, but what do you propose is better? A Tube? a sphere? a pyramid? The tube is probably the best of the three(maybe over all) but integrating an amp in could be tricky, and a large portion of subs are powered now-a-days. Aesthetics plays a part as well as the fact that multiple drivers and large amps are easily fit into a "cube" configuration. It's not something your kids knock over either. Plain and simple - They are practical but not necessarily the sole best. It depends on what one wants to achieve...

Probably just the nut on the back side of the post needs to be tightened...

I didn't notice a big improvement when bi- wiring. It's usually when you switch back to your old configuration that you can tell the differences in any changes you've done. The only thing I could tell right off was that I could turn my receiver up just a hair more with out distortion. It's worth a shot, but just don't expect some huge difference and you won't be disappointed. Note: Bi-amping is also an option...

The Rf-7 will also have a larger tweeter and come in a real wood veneer as previously stated in this post....

Quote - "Again, for those of us who don't care for the RF-3, I think the way to go would be to get the RB-5s and a decent sub." I hate you don't care for the Rf-3's I just can't say enough about these speakers. I think they're one of the best buys around. But everyone has their own opinions. Anyway those Rb's do look awesome, can't wait to see the new Rf line...

Quote - "That's about the only regret. I see here that the RF-3s are a lot more popular than the RB-5s or RP-5s, and I'm not sure why, but that's what personal preference is all about." Personal preference I agree, but I will say that as far as the rb5 vs the rf-3, the rb-5 is a real wood veneer where as the rf-3 has an extra driver for the same 'msr' price. Plus size plays a factor. I personaly thought that the rf-3's and a seperate sub sounded better than either the rp-3 or rp-5 alone...

Yea I understand the tuning point, but I still though the advantage was the "push pull" effect. Maybe someone else could elaborate on the advantages. I sure see them used alot in diy configs.

Don't passive radiators operate "out of phase" where as one driver moves in as the other moves out. There for canceling out even order harmonic distortion, kind of a push pull system just one driver is passive?