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jason str

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Posts posted by jason str

  1. 18 minutes ago, ODS123 said:


    Um... These are $15,000 speaker built to order - which takes 6-8 weeks.  ..They got the time.  They can run-in the drivers as they build the cabinets.  Alternatively, they could simply allow sub-performing speakers to show up at dealers, fail comparison tests, then watch demand for the speaker disappear completely.


    They promote the idea of break-in because it helps reduce the number of speakers that get returned to dealers. 



    6-8 weeks for a build is not much time at all for custom work, again you don't know what is involved in the process.





  2. 52 minutes ago, ODS123 said:


    Yes, this is true.  ..But the surround material is chosen for it's imparting minimal drag on the cone.  And the motor magnet is chosen for it's ability to overpower whatever drag is caused by the surround.  This is what a speaker does...  


    And why would a speaker company allow a $15,000 speaker leave it's factory TRULY believing it won't sound it's best for 200-250 hours (i.e., The Totem Wind)??  ..Why would they risk the speaker being set up in a dealer's demo room then comparing unfavorably to whatever ALL BECAUSE they didn't find a way to break their drivers in before mounting them in the cabinet??  If they REALLY believed in break-in and it helped avoid unfavorable demos, I do believe they'd find a way to do this before packing / shipping.

    Same reason a $20 driver won't sound its best until its broken in. They are new and not broken in.




    ..A few minute of break-in is plausible.  ..But 250 hours?  It's incredible that they very first spec they list  is break-in hours.


    It's almost like they're saying, "Please listen to this for 250 hours before calling us to say you're not really feelin' it... "






    Break in time varies from driver to driver. 


    Who better to know how long one of these drivers in the design takes to break in than the ones who have been testing them ?




  3. 56 minutes ago, ODS123 said:


    Or take a new pair out of the box, play one speaker overnight, then the next day play both using a mono recording and use your balance control to alternate b/w the speakers.  Be sure to set them right beside each other or you'll be comparing L vs. R room acoustics.


    I've done this very thing with several speakers and could not hear one iota of difference.


    Just because you don't hear anything does not mean there is no difference, somebody who cannot hear a difference from one piece of gear from another may not hear obvious changes from a driver that is new to one that is broken in.


    Take measurements if you can't hear the difference, that will tell you what you want to know.

  4. Mom

    Funeral was nice, Mom had lots of friends and relatives come from near and far.


    Thank's to everybody for their kind gestures here on the forum.


    The future will be different but memories of Mom will stay forever.



    • Thanks 1
  5. Mom

    Mom died suddenly of heart failure last Sunday morning.


    Bless her heart for dealing with Dad's and my refrigerator sized speakers, closets of records and C/D's for the past 50 + years and being a dam great mother.


    Miss her dearly.





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  6. 22 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

    Good advice, but highly dependent on how "stupid loud" it will play. My curve shows a 2 volt drive , which is 1 Watt.with well over 100 db output and that's for jut ONE cabinet. In a small room, there won't be more than a 6 db loss to the listening position, depending on room treatments, and how much stuffing in the cabinet. Personally, I would not go thought the expense of the HP filter, unless it's going to be used in a DJ system at a Wedding with a sub.


    A simple filter is cheaper than replacing a driver or four, just giving proper advice.

    • Like 1

  7. 5 hours ago, JohnA said:


    All drivers have a travel limit (Xmax).  All drivers need more travel as frequency drops (and it increases at the rate of 12 dB/octave) to maintain output.  In this case, the driver hits its travel limit about 40 Hz and due to the box tuning, it only takes 10 watts to hit Xmax  at 40 Hz.  I think it takes 2 watts at 35 Hz.  Now, that's no problem if you turn on a 40 Hz high-pass that is at least -12 dB/octave.  -12 dB/octave will cut the power below the filter "knee" as fast as the cone travel increases preventing damage. 


    One of the graphs in Jason's link shows the max allowable power per frequency, based on cone travel. 


    Xmax is the max travel allowed in one direction.  Twice Xmax is the total travel out to in. 


    Best to use a 24 dB/octave high pass filter to protect the woofer.

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  8. 43 minutes ago, DizRotus said:


    Without bracing, the La Scalas I refurbished for the local high school band room had an annoying resonance.  The playback volume was not insanely loud, but louder than would be typical in a home environment, due to the relatively large space.


    When the band leader first brought the problem to my attention, I thought it was caused by poor recordings.  The proof that was not the case was wedging short pieces of 3/4” dowel between the side walls and the deepest part of the doghouse, the eaves, if you will.  That immediately eliminated the resonance.  The long term solution was the braces visible in the outdoor photo.




    I have had 2 sets, the old set from late 80's and newer to me late 70's.


    Both had bass bin resonance, luckily spent time on the refurbish on my newer to me set and added bracing to remove any signs of the irritating noise.

  9. 21 minutes ago, GFelber said:


    Loud occasionally, but that's the exception.  My motivations for this project are: 1. to update the LS1s in the best and most reasonable manner possible and 2; aesthetics so they can be "accepted" in the house :)


    I should have added that I'll be incorporating a sub or two as well, most likely THT or Table Tuba(s), so the low end will be covered by these.  Hmm... maybe I just answered my question.


    No need to add material to the side of the cabinet.


    Table Tuba or THT is a great choice to solidify the bottom end.

    • Like 1

  10. 1/4" ply over the 3/4 will not stiffen the cabinet much at all, its just not the same as 1" material though you would think so.


    Bracing is really the way to make it right, might be a bit more work but worth the time and be sure to brace the inside of the cabinet ( where the woofer is) as well so you have bracing all the way from one side to the other.

  11. Cabinet size depends on driver T/S parameters.


    You can't just shrink a cabinet without consequences.


    Most blow so much money on speakers and amps that subs are an afterthought or have only this >[]< small space left for a sub and wonder why it does not sound that great in the end.