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jason str

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Posts posted by jason str


  1. 31 minutes ago, ODS123 said:

     

    Well I guess every speaker I've ever owned must of had sufficient adhesive integrity to pass the drop test because not a SINGLE one ever came apart after years and years of ownership.  ..And EVERY one was made from MDF.  ..Come to think of it, I don't have a single friend who owns an MDF speaker that spontaneously came apart, or suffered water damage for that matter.  ..And like me, most have had kept speakers for many many years.

     

    My advice to speaker desginers/makers:  Use whichever material makes for a better sounding speaker.  ..Leave it to the owner to keep the speaker safe from falls or water damage; you know, like the way one treats EVERY appliance in their home.  We don't pick our turntables, amplifiers, cd players or flat-screen TV's based on which can best hold up after being dropped, I don't see why we should assess speakers differently.

     

    I have repaired a few and threw out others not worth while.

     

    Lets not pretend it doesn't happen.

     

    My first set of speakers ( Jensen LS something) one of them fell and smashed in the whole corner and busted the seams and that was landing on 3/4" ply flooring with carpet on top.


  2. 9 hours ago, SWL said:

    Not looking for deeper bass....just additional bass that I already have (not that I need it....). I did this once with an additional pair of 30's just powering the woofers in them and it worked pretty good.

    Jason you'll appreciate this. Like I mentioned in this system I'm (was) using two 18" EV DR subs. They make a lot of boom boom but let's face it.....they suck compared to horn loaded.

    Forum member Claude1 turned me on to the Behringer A500 for sub duty with the BF subs. Sounds phenomenal with my THTLP's but the real surprise was that little TTLS (table tuba long style) that I bought from you a few years ago.

    That little horn loaded sub with an 8" driver in it outperforms the two 18" subs in every way. It has just as much impact and most of all I was reminded how these horn loaded subs blend so seamlessly into the mains. It doesn't sound like a sub is in the system. It just sounds like I upgraded my speakers. Sweet.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     

     

    It would be best to now maybe look into one of the KPT series if anything, sell those woofers and you have a great start. The THT's will sing right along with any KPT series as well.

     

    Many underestimate the Table Tuba because they think an 8 or 10" driver is not capable of performing well, that is until they hear one.


  3. 53 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

    I put CT-125's in a pair of LaScalas that I refurbished many years ago. I found that I had to drop the midrange down about 2 db with one of Bob's Autofomers in the AA Network, to get the overall balance correct to make up for the less sensitive nature of that tweeter. They are flat to 20 Khz., but less sensitive than any of the B&C's spoken of here. For guys who were former Garage Band members, dwellers, or who attended a Who concert back in the day (million watt PA's with custom Horn Cabs, yikes), who cant hear anything above 8-10 Khz. (I'm good to almost 13 Khz.) The K77 is still a fine tweeter. In fact, you could probably disconnect it and never know the difference. LOL!

     

    In fact, Pete Townsend, Mr. Tinnitus, should have changed the name from the Who to simply WHAT? A long time ago. LOL.

     

    I have mine at the same settings (-2dB) with my "A-4500".

     

    The only problem with my set and others is the driver is too large and it hits the top of the (La Scala) cabinet so it needs a bit of the cabinet ground down to fit flush.


  4. Clean the area with a soap/watered damp cloth, let it completely dry.

     

    Apply a little shoe goo to the area carefully avoiding the curved surround with a toothpick until its sealed, let it cure at least 24 hours.

     

    A few thin coats is better than a one thick bead, removing the woofer(s) before repair will be easiest.


  5. On 10/4/2019 at 4:42 PM, IB Slammin said:

     

    Unsatisfactory look ???  I always kept mine with the back to a wall or a corner....Didn't look at the back unless moving :D

     

    Absolutely, looks unprofessional and lowers the resale value.


  6. 7 hours ago, larryk said:

    Not sure how that would work.  If you glue one end of a 2x4 i would think the weight would not support it until you got the rear panel in place to secure with screws.  Maybe i am not thinking this right.   I have also heard that others have added a 3/4” panel to the back of the existing panel to keep the back panel from flexing.  Am curious what results that may bring.

     

    Added weight and an unsatisfactory look.

     

    Measure from motorboard to flange face, this will be 2x4 brace length.

     

    Glue brace to motorboard between the woofer & squawker, set in place with glue and let dry. If you are worried about exact placement you can remove the squawker or woofer and test fit the new brace using a pencil to mark placement before anything else. This step will make drilling the rear panel hole placement easy.

     

    Simply drill the holes in the rear panel slightly larger than the screws to avoid binding on the plywood.

     

    I don't own Cornwalls ( so no measurements) just make sure to avoid brace placement under the rear jack.


  7. 21 minutes ago, Wolfbane said:

     

    Dimensional lumber can be straight. All you need to do is find a good supplier that hand selects properly produced product from the tree to the kiln and then the lumber yard. Then hand select what you want from that supplier.

     

    No OSB, or MDF for me. 🔨

     

    Wb

     

    Just look down the end of the lumber, any crown goes up.

     

    Never had an issue either, any warped lumber was used up building headers or ripped down for other uses.


  8. 8 minutes ago, ODS123 said:

     

    really?  ..Do you feel this way about cars too?? 

     

    As for MDF, that's actually a step forward from PLY.  Ply has voids, warps, etc..  MDF is more consistent from sheet to sheet in terms of weight, thickness and dampening qualities.  And MDF is far easier to CNC/ route recesses, corners, etc..   This is why 99% of the best wood speakers in the world are made from MDF.    Ply is still a good choice for speakers made for commercial applications where sound Q may matter a bit less than durability.

     

    Experienced cabinet builders use void free panels & any warping will straighten with the construction of the cabinet, MDF & HDF are cheaper subpar alternatives.

     

    Just recently they tore down the little brick ranch next door and put up this monstrosity of newly built house, all MDF and OSB construction and asked the guys building the place why they used those materials and the answer was dimensional lumber is never exactly straight. My thoughts afterwards was this place will fall apart before the old one would have.

    • Like 1

  9. 16 minutes ago, codewritinfool said:

    And now I have drivers and horns & crossovers to complete a 2nd set for stacking. Lol. I’m nuts.

     

     

    You will find that stacking takes the magic out of the music.

     

    The MCM1900 system is in a whole different league than La Scala's. :emotion-21:

    • Like 2

  10. Been getting calls lately with our own name and number on the caller ID when normally its just been some schmuck who claims to be from Microsoft who tells me my computer license has expired spiel.

     

    I was on the phone trying to waste as much of the guys time as possible last week from one of those Microsoft Guru's until i mentioned i have only Apple systems (hung up on me quickly after) when now this week Apple computers calls and mentions my system needs maintenance.

     

    Good fun for a while but its starting to get old quickly.


  11. 17 minutes ago, StratCountry said:

     

    I removed the speaker terminal box and was able to push out the speaker which took quite a bit of force to pop it out.

    Connections are correct.

    Seems like their should be more foam inside the cabinet, only on one side which is 1 inch thick? Everywhere else is bare?

    Could this contribute to the bass issue?

     

     

     

    No, there was minimal foam to begin with.

     

    If i recall that foam pad was U shaped on the bottom of the cabinet, it was probably moved to install the crossover there.

     

    Nothing to worry about.


  12. 14 minutes ago, StratCountry said:

     

    The bass is always the strongest just before entering kitchen and next to door on right of the picture.

    I'll work on many of the suggestions over the weekend, but first will be taking a look inside my speaker cabinets for the first time, to check polarity connections.

     

    If you are running a sub in the system try positioning the sub there.

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