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jason str

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Posts posted by jason str


  1. Recheck the woofer dustcaps & leads.

     

    The crossover can create noise as well if not secured properly.

     

    A rubber mallet can be a useful tool for finding loose panels or parts. If you are worried about marring the finish put a facecloth over it securing it with a rubber band.


  2. 2 hours ago, Dave A said:

    You mean inside the doghouse? Or front to back? I added braces where the slope is on the dog house to the side walls but not the rectangular slot past that going to the back. I did clamp wood to the outside where that slot is to dampen any resonance that might occur with no bracing there but it made no difference as far as I could tell. I have clamped wood in every direction I can where it makes sense and still the resonance problem.

     

     

    Here.

     

    311651877_Capture22.JPG.8dde1c81bc0428cab42378820350d669.JPG


  3. Sound changes with the design. The K-33 sounds different in every model Klipsch makes (Cornwall, La Scala & Klipschorn)

     

    You want to match or better your sub to the mains for a seamless crossover, horn loaded sub with horn loaded mains or even direct radiating mains match great with horn loaded subs.

     

    If you find yourself turning off the sub to make things sound right you are either using the wrong subwoofer or don't have it dialed in correctly.

     

    If you never used a proper sub you don't know what you are missing.

    • Thanks 1

  4. Remove the driver and mark the wires and terminals if there are no markings or note where they go if marked.

     

    Glue some toothpick pieces flush with the motorboard or slightly recessed with wood glue.

     

    Insert the old screws 3/4 of the way in and let dry 24 hours.

     

    Remove the screws, install the driver and reinstall the screws.

     

    Check the driver gasket in the process and be sure its in good shape.


  5. 6 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

    No set length.  The longer the horn the lower it will go.  No rules of thumb.  You can learn to use Hornresp and play around with drivers and lengths.  It's like winisd for horn enclosures.

     

    Its not just the length that determines the tuning frequency but it plays a part.

     

    Taper rate, throat area, and mouth area makes a difference as well as boundaries at the exit.

     

    For instance the THT and Table Tuba are the same length but act very differently or the wider the cabinet the more efficient the bottom end. You get the idea...

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2

  6. Witch Altec horn & driver combo are you using ?

     

    Building a new set of bass bins for 10 or 15 Hz sounds like a complete waste of time considering with less time and money you could build a proper horn loaded subwoofer to add to the current La Scala bass bins.

     

    Getting things done right the first time will pay off in the long run.

    • Like 1

  7. 2 hours ago, avguytx said:

    I have seriously thought about enclosing the top sections of the Belle clones I built a couple years back.  There are times I do hear certain resonance frequencies from certain vocalists, instruments, etc., that I have to go hack and play again at different volume levels to confirm I heard them.  Sometimes I'll play the same song on another pair of speakers to confirm my belief.  I've played guitar for 45 years and there is no doubt instruments have their certain sounds they make at certain frequencies and the designers do the best they can to compromise those anomalies.  

     

    Backs would be easy to enclose and I wouldn't have to do them out of Baltic Birch.  They could be plywood or MDF....whatever I have around to work with, really, as long as it's straight and solid.  Just 3/4" glue blocks all around the inside inset the thickness of the back panel (3/4" most likely) and then painted the same black that the bass bins are on the back.  They I would add 4 banana jacks to them for wire connections....one pair of inputs to crossovers and a LF output to the bass bins connections down low.  Not sure when I'd get to that but at some point.

     

    I just cut a piece of scrap ply one inch larger than the existing hole in the back of the cabinet.

     

    Drilled very small holes around the piece and into the cabinet evenly like i was making a hatch cover, removed the piece and drilled out the holes so the screws slipped in easily.

    Be sure to mark each piece and each cabinet to tell witch goes with witch and witch end is up so you don't mismatch lined up holes.

     

    Ran speaker gasket tape around to seal.

     

    Installed a terminal cup & wire up being sure to use the most expensive wire i could find.    :rolleyes:

     

    Washers on the screws, install and snug.


  8. 37 minutes ago, glens said:

    I'm pretty sure a "Helmholtz resonator" is a bit more specific in configuration than what you're describing.  The violin and guitar work quite a bit differently than a Helmholtz resonator, or really any "resonator" for that matter.  Certainly there is some resonance at "play" in their overall outputs but I really wouldn't consider it a terribly primary factor (certainly nothing to get "excited about").  Their bodies themselves are the producers of the sound, at least the development of and transference of same to the air, and are, overall, best not too resonant to any particular frequency the instrument might produce.

     

    There is a "wolf note" on a cello...

     

    Guitar

     

    Violin

     

    Any solid structure

     

    Lots more if you google.

     

    If you have evidence to the contrary post it, happy to look.

    • Like 1

  9. 45 minutes ago, JohnA said:

     

     

    After rapping on the top of the cabinet with my knuckles, I tightly stuffed the upper cabinet with polyester fiberfill.  That cut the ringing of the top panel, that sounded a lot like knocking on a guitar.  Since there is no significant source of sound inside the upper cabinet, it will not become a Helmholtz (typically requires a small opening and a large volume connected by a tube) and there is no worry about escaping sound.  LOL!  Bass frequencies can excite the top panel a little if it is not damped. 

     

     

     

     

     

    Just about any solid structure containing containing a volume of air with an opening that amplifies a frequency can be considered a Helmholtz resonator.

     

    For instance a violin or guitar has no source of sound inside the body but is considered a Helmholtz resonator.


  10. 8 minutes ago, BrianJacobs said:

    yeah, I am running Crites CT120 in place of the K-77. ALK is building me an Extreme Slope network now, would love to replace the cast K400 with a wooden one, but no one sells them anymore.  My big goal with this part of the project was how much of an improvement could I make for as little money as possible. I had other people judge L to R comparison to remain objective. If I were smarter I would have a controlled environment with sound meters and so on, but I am not, and at the end of the day I am not selling anything and dont really care if anyone takes advantage of my work or not, but it is fun to share with sometimes like minded hobbyist. 

     

    No need to replace the K-400 or K-401 horn, just cross it over at a lower frequency.

     

    The LSII is crossed over @ 4000 Hz and the Crites A-4500 @ 4500 Hz for reference.


  11. 15 minutes ago, BrianJacobs said:

    As stated in my OP, it certainly reduces efficiency, and efficiency is the one thing Klipsch is very proud of. Unfortunately the K400 horn while very efficient can give you a headache almost as fast as Mike Tyson. Everything I did made my speakers much much less efficient than factory, but I am pushing them with 100watts, I have more head room than I could possibly need, what I do have now is a speaker that sounds beautiful, much more tame than stock and is still more efficient than most anything else around.  These speakers are great, they still do not hold a candle to a pair of Wilsons or speakers at $100,000 and up, but for what I have into these speakers I am not sure there is anything that compares. 

     

    Cross the K-400/K-55 over at a lower frequency to reduce much of that harshness you are speaking of. The K-77 will need to be replaced for this modification.

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