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jason str

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Everything posted by jason str

  1. Sounds about right. If it were my $$$ Heresy III's would be on the top of my list for a smaller room but that's just my opinion. If LaScala's fit in the room the room, the room is not too small. [^o)]
  2. My very best system. Pioneer SX 780 The finest white van speakers money can buy, pardon the garage mess. [:$]
  3. Belgian beer is awesome, love the Hacker Pschorr too.
  4. Some of the older model woofers used a surround adhesive that would slowly make its way to the bottom of the driver. I have seen this before on some Altec drivers and rotating the driver would keep the mess in check. I'm sure this is what folks are speaking of anyways. Will try to find a pic. of this.
  5. No need to sand your stock twice, wait until the build is complete then do your sanding. As for the assembly i answered your question already. []
  6. If your decision is this hard for you just flip a coin, always works for me. Momma always says make a list of pro's and con's and the choice will be clear but this is too much work for me, the good O'l coinflip never fails. [Y]
  7. I built mine my way but i have been a woodworker since i could lift a hammer. My grandfather was a great teacher and encouraged me to build at a very young age, no power tools until maybe 10 or so but you get the idea. My advice is to follow the plans so you don't get lost or confused. Get as far as you can each day being carefull not to skip a step or get ahead of yourself. Personally i just ripped everything to size and used end scraps for the supports but this may not be the best advise for your first build.
  8. You most likely will get the P.L. where you don't want it, just sand it off. You will need to sand anyways if you want the project to look nice. I had a good 25 + hours of sanding in my build. Build your project complete, then worry about the dowel rods or inlays, this can all be done after completed.
  9. If the dowel rod's are a must for you here are some options. Use nails to construct, after everything is dry countersink the nails and use inlays to cover the holes. Use screws to construct, after everything is dry remove your screws, drill your holes where the screws were and install your dowel rods. Stain may stick to the poly but it aint gonna look pretty.
  10. Don't always take the doctors words to heart, when my granny was on her way out they gave her weak heart a few months max, she lasted years until she fell & broke her hip and was killed by a blood clot. Now if i could only get pops to stop smoking and eating ice cream twice a day. Best wishes for you and your family.
  11. Countersink the nails & use wood filler to match your wood tone/color. The other way out is veneer or thin plywood.
  12. Follow the plans and you will have no problems. Use nails, the glue (P.L. premium) holds the project together. Biscuits are unneeded. Once the project is together there is no way to fix your mistakes besides cutting the sub open, P.L. expands and will have your back. You may get more help with cut sheets using Bill's forum, i have not seen any personally besides whats in the plans. I did not use any clamps, just scrap pieces of wood & nails like everything else i built in the past 30 years.
  13. Why did i not think of this ? A perfect fix for those harsh horns. [^o)] One of these for each driver is just a fix it all valve. A quick sonic fix with some fancy speaker wire to top it off and you're set for life. ( Be sure to break in that wire before making your final decision ). [:^)]
  14. Most hardware stores will have some kind of material for gasket making. Tape backed insulation will work, cork, construction paper, you get the idea. Glad you found something local. Shipping cost is outrageous sometimes, even here in the good old US of A.
  15. Just use a plain old hammer & trim nails, 2 or 3 nails hand pounded nails won't kill ya. Most air nailers leave a indentation in your work anyways leaving you more finish work in the long run. If you can't find screws you like from P.E. find something that suits your fancy from your local hardware store & just get the T nuts from P.E.
  16. I used a different woofer for my build, ask P.E., they may be of more help regarding your driver. Tack your panel with trim nails, do not bang em all the way in for easy removal ( be sure its straight, this will be its final resting place), then drill out your bolt holes. Remove your panel, drill out the holes in the cabinet to fit your T nuts. Install your T nuts and install your panel. You may want to use some washers on the heads of your panel bolts so not to mar up your panel. Nothing to line up if its done properly. []
  17. Happy birthday Amy, Hope all your birthday wishes come true.
  18. Buy the 50 pack of T nuts and bolts, you will need them for the woofer mounting and the access panel, using self tappers may work OK but if you need to get to the driver for any reason the self tappers will strip out rather quickly making nothing but a headache with noisy leaks robbing you of performance from your new build.
  19. You will need an amp for power. T- nuts and bolts for driver installation and access door installation. You may want to add some rubber feet so not to scratch your floors when moving. Hardware store goods: Trim nails to hold your project together while it dries. 2 tubes of PL Premium 18" off the wall is preferred but not necessary, wall or corner loading will add volume but for the most part not necessary. I will suggest some round speaker cable to make your runs easier unless you plan on using the access door for mounting, then it really does not matter.
  20. Everyone must have one, read the rave reviews. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=110-439&vReviewShow=1#reviews
  21. PL is a great product for construction projects, dries fairly quick and very strong. Lots of good driver options out there, Bill says anything within 10% of the specs can be used but its probably best to ask if theres any question. These are some of the options i know of. Dayton RSS390HF-4 Dayton DCS380-4 & if i recall somebody had good results with a 385 model but don't quote me on this. 12" version = Eminence LAB 12 More options are available on the forum if needed.
  22. Two Tuba HT of any size would be major overkill for any high performance system in the home, you really cant use all the output, don't be afraid to think smaller if going for the pair. You may want to block & insulate your floor joists before you install the ceiling to keep the noise and vibrations down. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-570' target="_blank">
  23. Sounds about right, build 2 smaller Tuba HT's, if i had the room this would already be running here. The minimum size for the 15" driver is 18" wide ( 18 x 36 x 36 ) or the 12" driver version ( 15 x 36 x 36 ). Constructing 2 at a time would not be the worst thing, once the first few steps are completed it comes natural if you enjoy woodworking. Most of your time will be waiting for the poly to dry, making 2 will be more constructive with your time if you keep busy with the project.
  24. If the Spud plays fine midbass like the Tuba a pair would serve nice. Where will this riser reside in the room layout ?
  25. According to the literature the maximum output is equal @ 126 Db. The Tuba is more efficient & probably lighter as it uses 1/2" stock, size is unreasonable on both cabinets i see @ 11 x 48 x 45 the Spud is larger than the average potato. Anybody in Chicagoland have one of these so we can A/B the two ?
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