jason str

Saw Motley crew at Rosemont Horizon in the mid 80's. Have not heard that name in some time. They're coming to Summerfest in Milwaukee, maybe i will check it out.

Can't even see the color difference by the pictures, they must be pretty close. Now its time to add a THT or 2, i don't think a Spud will play up to the frequency where the La Scala's start to roll off. Great looking theater room.

Thought you said bust out a joint, my mistake.

Judging from my experience i think any car subwoofer benefits from cabin gain but i have not used measurement tools, just my ears or built any bandpass subs (not a big fan). I spent quite some time experimenting with sub placement & box types with a Dodge conversion van years back and found by far the best placement was under the rear seat/folding bed facing back at the rear doors, then tried both ported & sealed box types with different tuning and ended up with a ported box tuned at 40 Hz. This kept the bass tight & response reasonably flat without having to use much EQ. Since most car subs are in the trunk mounting options are limited but always seem to work best firing at the back of the trunk. Placement is important but so is a properly tuned system, i like bass but don't like it to overpower the rest of the system. There is some more information here. Link I have built a dozen systems or maybe a bit more and helped out friends in the past and don't consider myself a know it all expert by any means but do try to help out where i can with what knowledge i have.

Well the only thing it could be is the small size of the listening area, possibly compared to the length of a bass note, mid and high freq aren't a problem in cars usually just the bass requires more. ? Automotive subwoofers almost always work better aimed at the back of the car or truck or cab, a hatchback will sometimes work better with the driver facing up with the hatch angle almost working as a horn. There are some exceptions but this is a general rule. Experimentation is the key. Cabin gain starts even higher in frequency and multiplies to a greater extent because of the small confined space and can make low bass notes to be too much in the small space almost drowning midbass notes if tuned too low.

Facing the driver towards the rear of the cab will help.

In theory the flat pack is a great idea but in reality you will still need to cut most of your panels to size as PL expansion is never exact and little discrepancies add up over every installed panel.

Probably not the best project to learn how to do veneer. However if you must, sand & bondo every surface smooth. Poly the cabinet so the veneer dosent peel. Cut your veneer sheets to size, sand smooth & install then finish with whatever finish you like.

Yes but its not reinforced and meant to withold the stress of an occupant like the seat belt anchor. Just for safety's sake.

Add a proper sub to match your mains if you need deeper bass. You could also EQ or lengthen the ports but a sub would be best.

Klipsch may still stock a recone kit for the passive, give them a call.

Both offer plenty of bass though not the same sound. Don't underestimate the K-48 cast frame woofer, it likes power & handles it well.

Make sure you use grade 5 or better bolts & hardware to secure as cheap bolts will shear right off under heavy force. You may even want to drill through the floorpan and use a big washer or plate assuming its clear under the floorpan, keep in mind the stock seat attachment is only made to hold a lightweight car seat in an accident. Looks like a nice project. My son is the same way, he runs 2 high end 10's and can hear him coming from a mile away, literally.

Great setup you have there dtel, if you were closer i would come by and check it out.

Great starter set for a small apartment.

Dosent really matter, the cabinet is very well braced when built correctly. Void free, 4-5 ply & no thin veneer will be best.

Not sure on date yet. Hope to know soon The price is all over the place depending who you talk too. I sent out a ton of emails to different places. I went with the best price. The next best price was $1,000 more lol. Youth is right palladium cost more than these. With the pro line your paying for performance and not so much for looks. I have asked multiple times to become a Klipsch seller & got totally brushed off by the representative. It would be nice to have more sales options.

Yes, 8" would be the driver depth. Double 15" cabinet won't work, you would need to build 2 cabinets. 24" cabinet of either version would be a good choice. Quality Baltic Birch, Auraco 5 ply or any quality 4-5 ply void free 1/2" plywood is what you will need, nothing with a thin outer veneer.

Not the best tool for the job but it will work in the F-20 also.

The K-33-E is just close enough in spec to work in a THT with a 100 watt or so amp as long as its under 8" deep.

Happy Birthday to all, don't forget to send me out a piece of cake.

Good album to showcase the LaScala, ship them out your new horn loaded subwoofer to make the the night more memorable.

Maybe you could find a used driver for it, if not just sell it for parts.

Was it listed that way ?

The wire you listed is rated for in wall use, it dosent matter what color the jacket is. Monster wire is nothing special, its decent copper wire. You could get cheaper wire but after you pay for shipping price would be near the same.