jason str
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Posts posted by jason str
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If its a really old panel it could be maxed out. Does it have the screw in style fuses ?
Newer panels are usually 100 amp, it would be really hard to max out a 100 amp panel.
You can use your meter to check the oncoming voltage but like mentioned before if you don't know what you're doing have an electrician do it. It can and will kill if you touch the wrong thing.
Copper wire is a good thing, at least you're one step ahead with that.
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The first thing i would check is voltage at the main panel, if the main panel shows low voltage it may be a problem with the electric transformers or issues on the electric company's side of things.
If you're not sure about it i would hire an electrician.
Is the house wired with aluminum wire ? If so it could be loose contacts.
Around here some suburbs use aluminum wire.
I have seen many loose contacts with homes wired with aluminum wire. Fires & smoking outlets included.
Sometimes electricians use the push through slots in the socket that lose contact over time, you may need to replace the socket and use the screw contacts if this is the case.
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I am too busy right now to go through all of this, but is this also saying the converse is true, meaning that if you have a Cornwall or other speakers with direct radiating woofers you should not use a horn loaded sub?
I was reading about time delay in horn subs on another site last night, making the argument that horn subs should not be used with direct radiators for that reason.
I ran my THT with my Chorus II's a while back and it sounded great, i had it crossed over pretty low (40-50 Hz).
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I have used bleach before with good results, i use a pump sprayer.
Glad things worked out.
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I have experimented quite a bit with matching subs to my LaScalas, and have personally found that the horn loaded subs sound best by a wide margin. I was never sure exactly why, but I was just reading through a very long thread where Lynn Olson mentioned something that gave me an epiphany. Here is the snippit:
Lynn Olson - diyaudio thread top of page 3 pgph 7
I've been thinking quite a lot about dispersion characteristics - most horn-fans don't know it, but unless they've got an all-horn system, the dispersion is not in fact constant with frequency. The direct-radiation bass unit radiates over 360 degrees (omnidirectional), then gradually narrows down to 180 to 90 degrees (depending on crossover point), then hands off to a horn with the specified radiation pattern (typically 120 to 90 degrees), which then narrows further as the frequency increases (unless it's a constant-directivity horn, which have their own problems). The narrow sidelobes that appear in the polar-pattern curves also appear as ripples in the time-domain, frequency-domain, and impedance curves - this is a consequence of antenna theory, where errors in one domain must appear in the other domains as well.
Lynn is one of those people who can explain things well. I am not going to try to expand on this, but I will say that it makes PERFECT sense. To my ears, a radiator sub is a mismatch. My brain is recognizing the errors in the time-domain and frequency domain, and even though I don't really get why, it just doesn't sound right.
Thank you Lynn. I guess there is a lot our brains and ears do that we are really not cognitive of.
Finally another one gets it.
You're preaching to the choir, some have to experience it for themselves for the lightbulb to turn on.
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Rope caulk or adhesive backed weatherstripping will be your best bet.
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Maybe. Ever notice how a 15-inch never really measures 15 inches of moving surface? Goes for any size. You'd need to use real sizes to tell.
You have to include x-max into the equation too.
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If you really want tight snappy bass from your sub a horn is the way to go.
Lower distortion = better sound
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Walk.
Ron
I agree, for $1000 you can do alot better.
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Either way will work, ceiling or floor.
My thoughts with the crossover was if the 2 subs weren't producing the same notes they would not be stepping on each others toes.
I still find having a sub somewhat centered between the soundstage sounds best.
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Just spray it down with bleach.
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Getting all the crap out of the room sure makes it look bigger.
Nice to have a clean slate to work with, the last basement i did was over 2200 Sq Ft and kinda shaped like a Z with a wet bar.
Once you get started it goes quickly as long as you plan ahead.
Whats the reason for cleaning the walls ? Arent you studding them out ?
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Is this something that could be worked out with phase controls or even audyessy?
Phase is your enemy here.
Never heard of anybody getting it to sound correct.
Maybe you could get away with it using a steep slope crossover but i think it would be more trouble than its worth.
You can mix two similar horns like the Table Tuba & the THT if you feel the need to mix up some subwoofers.
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So, how did the new sub work out ?
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One THT will be plenty.
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Horn sub will blend much better with your mains.
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I wouldn't let mine go for that price, its hard to find clean examples.
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If it were my choice between the two brands i would look for a Marantz 2238 or better.
Lots of them were made, look around, sometimes they pop up on Craigslist.
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Love the natural colors, wish my backyard had one.
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If it has voids in it forgetaboutit.
Maybe you have a local lumberyard around that carries Auraco plywood ?
Birch would be the way to go if you can find the good stuff.
I need to drive 40 minutes then pay out the @$$ for my baltic birch but at least i can get it locally.
Menards, Home depot & Lowes dosent carry anything worthwhile around here.
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Veneered plywood is great for making nice looking furniture, not good for a resonating bass cabinet.
The outer veneer will not hold up well.
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If Auraco plywood is available i would use that, its priced cheap, void free & holds up well.
Stay away from plywood with a thin outer veneer, it dosent hold up to gluing well.
The Birch from Menards probably has a thin veneer, avoid it if it does.
The only time i use MDF is if i have too witch is rarely.
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Nice Sun Scope, i worked with those for years back in my racing days.
Good for lots of diagnosis before everything became computerized.
Does it still work ?
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Cold weather cabin fever
Cold is right, after the bombardment of knee high + snow the cold set in and burst a waterpipe last night, spent all day repairing plumbing & drywall.
Horn loaded sub with horn loaded speakers
in Subwoofers
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Time delays can be done using the THT or Table tuba or any of the Tuba's for that matter but is not necessary, anything below 80Hz delays of less than 20ms are inaudible.