Jump to content

jason str

Heritage Members
  • Posts

    5463
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Posts posted by jason str

  1. Muel,

    I seem to remember a thread somewhere in the BFM forum concerning the driver access. You might want to search over there. Here is a clip from BFM about placement:

    "Decide where you’re going to put your sub. While a middle of the floor placement will work you’ll get better results with it next to a wall, with best results in a corner of the room. It doesn't matter if the cab stands upright or is laid on a side, but either way the horn mouth should be at the floor with the driver access hole, which has no cover, facing either the wall or the floor. In a corner the horn mouth should be facing into the corner from about a foot away. You do not want the cabinet tight into the corner with the horn mouth facing out."

    You should defeinitely pose this question in the BFM forums. Be prepared to be slapped around. The place isn't really very friendly IMO.

    .

    The La Scala bass will be louder too if you turn it around and face it to the wall or a corner but it works fine faced into a room, same with the Tuba, plenty of output unless you are trying out for an SPL contest.

    Even at very loud listening levels with my THT facing my listening position there was no lack of bass.

    I never had an issue personally at Bills forum.

    • Like 1
  2. Beautiful job on that table!

    I have a question about the table tuba. I know Bill specifies that there is NO cover for the driver access but you are supposed to have it next to the wall or the floor. I am thinking about having two but I would not be able to have either one near the wall and I'd have to have them upright with the driver access on the right or left side. What would be the result of that and would that be a situation to go ahead and cover the access? Has anyone ever heard a table tuba with the driver access covered?

    Thank You

    I have an access panel on my TT because without it needs to be 1 1/2-2" from a wall/floor.

    The way i make my doors is use the cutout from the plywood door & on the inside of the driver enclosure is glue & screw 3/4" plywood 7/8" high to the inside of the driver enclosure recessed 1/2" or whatever thickness your plywood is and then screw and T nut the cutout access panel on.

  3. Thank you for the compliments.

    The table tuba sounds very similar to the Tuba HT, it just does not dig as low.

    I think the TT is better with music than the HT though both blend seamlessly with the La Scala sound.

    I can see the Tuba HT would be better with a home theater but that is what it was designed for anyways.

    Out of the two i think i will stick the Table Tuba for my system.

    Also i am considering being an authorised builder of Bill's designs for extra income, in the meantime it keeps me busy and it is fun building these things.

    Probably i will stick with the line arrays & subwoofer designs but i will take things one step at a time.

  4. Rubber feet?

    I purchased 4 rubber feet but have not installed them yet.

    The inside of the oak legs have a piece if 3/4" oak 1/4 round on the inside just so i have a place to screw the foot screws into.

    This will be the final step.

  5. Thank you for all the compliments.

    The Rust- Oleum Varathane finish is really bringing out the woodgrain on the red oak.

    4 more coats of varathane, some sanding & glue on the drawer fronts and its done.

    SAM_0072_zps77eeea3a.jpg

  6. Got to make room for my new sub, Sold.

    Invitations open for a test drive if you want to hear the subwoofer.

    It may be in the garage for some tuning up while i spend some time with the table tuba after the weekend.

  7. It is hard to find good recordings, they are few and far inbetween.

    I would certainly pay more for an album that is recorded well but not 10 times as much, maybe if it was one of my favorites i would be willing to pay out but of course there would be limits forking out much $ for something that should sound right to begin with.

  8. You might consider rounding the corners to reduce the pain of knee impacts when walking around the sub.

    It looks pretty good. Looking forward to seeing the pix of it when it's finished.

    LOL my issue has been more breaking my toes on couch legs. Every piece of furniture now has to have legs set back.

    I swear i have broken every toe on this couch i had for years, feel sorry for the couple i gave it to.

  9. Hey, it actually looks like a table! :o

    That's the plan. It will look even better when the rest of the red oak is installed.

    I will post my opinion between the Tuba HT and the Table Tuba sonic differences when i get a chance.

  10. Looks great. I'm assuming by the width it's a single driver cab? 8 or 10? What amp will you use? Did you drill the inner panels (and seal) for the driver wire?

    Single 10" driver & 15" panels, the minimum width for the 10" driver. I wanted it to look like a table and having the cabinet any deeper would just make it look like another box.

    The panels were drilled and sealed for the wire throughfare.

    When its finished i will do the testing with my Dayton 240 watt amp i use for the Tuba HT, more than enough power for these tuba's to rock the neighbors house.

  11. This is what has been keeping me busy while the forum was down.

    Still a work in progress but the basics are done.

    I still have not decided on the legs or weather to add faux drawer fronts w handles to finish the table look.

    Front side

    SAM_0062_zpsa3e6ce52.jpg

    Back side

    SAM_0063_zps7ba755e1.jpg

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...