jason str

Bob probably has what you need in stock. http://www.critesspeakers.com/prices-crossover_repair_kit.html

Back to the top.

You have been warned about the warning.

LOL my issue has been more breaking my toes on couch legs. Every piece of furniture now has to have legs set back. I swear i have broken every toe on this couch i had for years, feel sorry for the couple i gave it to.

That's the plan. It will look even better when the rest of the red oak is installed. I will post my opinion between the Tuba HT and the Table Tuba sonic differences when i get a chance.

Probably 6-8" legs will be used for around 23- 25" total height

Single 10" driver & 15" panels, the minimum width for the 10" driver. I wanted it to look like a table and having the cabinet any deeper would just make it look like another box. The panels were drilled and sealed for the wire throughfare. When its finished i will do the testing with my Dayton 240 watt amp i use for the Tuba HT, more than enough power for these tuba's to rock the neighbors house.

Been using these for years on all my goodies. Radio hack sold em for years and never had noise or sound quality problems but they no longer stock them. Guess this is the last of the stock. Picked up 4 backups for good measure. For under $2 each how can you go wrong ? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=249-210

Forum looks great, Good job.

This is what has been keeping me busy while the forum was down. Still a work in progress but the basics are done. I still have not decided on the legs or weather to add faux drawer fronts w handles to finish the table look. Front side Back side

I agree, the dust cover and platter should have been removed and protected from damage using cardboard and crumpeld newspaper at the very least. You let the guy off easy for $25. Good luck with your new TT.

Last bump before it goes into the garage of no return.

Tuba HT is back up for sale. Sold takes it away Sub only, you need your own 100-300 watt amp.

I'm waiting for the 10 gauge version before i splurge. Hope the break in period is not too lengthy.

Good thinking, if its a newer ATX power supply you will need to ground the green wire on the 20 or 24 ATX harness ( the one that plugs into the mainboard) . You should be able to ground it to any plug with a black wire attached for the ground.

Make sure you hook it up to the 12 volt output and you will be good to go.

What a great looking pair of La Scalas. Did the grills have any negative effects on the bass performance ?

Klipsch and Da Bears, Amy has some good taste for sure.

Correct. 110,115,120 volts are all used to describe voltages used in the home here in the U.S. 110 is just the term us older folks grew up using.

220V as in European power? That is not the same as our 240V. You should not attempt to connect this to a 240V outlet without substantially changing the electronics inside the amp unless the operating instructions tell you to do so. Euro 220V is single phase, and US 240V is two phase. I doubt the amp has a 4 prong outlet necessary for 240V. There should be a switch in back of the power supply to switch back and fourth from 110v to 220v. Yes, that is to switch from USA power (120/240-60Hz) to Euro power (220/50Hz). Not the same thing as a 240 volt clothes dryer outlet. In a 240 receptacle, two of the spades are 120V legs. In Euro power, one leg is 220V to ground. I'm pretty sure you can't simply twist two 120V hot wires together to make 240V and be in electrical code compliance. I am not a licensed electrician, but common sense tells me you don't want to. For that reason, you would need to do voltage conversion via transformer to step the 120V up to 220, which would be silly in this situation. In this situation, if you need a higher (20A) amp receptacle, run large enough wire and install a large enough breaker to install the higher amp receptacle. I never mentioned 240 volts Nor twisting wires together You dont need any transformer. If the amp can draw more than 20 amps its not silly to step up to 220 volts because you would never get the full potential of the amplifier otherwise but i can see with a rental unit not to go that route. What you use is a 220 volt breaker witch takes up 2 spots in your main breaker panel and the correct guage wire. There is a 3 or 4 prong option for the 30 amp socket or a 4 prong 50 amp plug witch you would need to run 8 guage wire to.

220V as in European power? That is not the same as our 240V. You should not attempt to connect this to a 240V outlet without substantially changing the electronics inside the amp unless the operating instructions tell you to do so. Euro 220V is single phase, and US 240V is two phase. I doubt the amp has a 4 prong outlet necessary for 240V. There should be a switch in back of the power supply to switch back and fourth from 110v to 220v.

I wanted to add running off a 15 amp circuit is not going to harm anything. What it will do is not put out full power when you really need it at higher volume and sacrifice your extra headroom. Your existing 15 amp circuit should be 14 guage wire. 20 amp should run a 12 guage wire & 20 amp breaker. 220 volt 30 amp circuit should use 10 guage wire. If you feel you can do it yourself and need help feel free to contact me and i will guide you through.

If you were going to run a separate circuit may as well run a 220 line while you're at it, not really that much more expense if your main panel has the room for the extra breaker. By the way nice looking unit.[Y]

I can use the cash but open to interesting audio related trades.

Bob mentioned overextension of the passive cone and this is something that happened to me with an older set of my Chorus II's. No extra weight was added to the passive either. Luckily the glue gave way instead of the cone and just a re glue was needed. Just be careful with the volume knob and keep an eye on you drivers excursion.