jason str
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Posts posted by jason str
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Looks like lots of work went in here, very nice job.
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35 minutes ago, avguytx said:
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$40 worth of trash
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Right size, wrong color.
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Ended up with this. My drier is sickly too but still works. 🤞
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7 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
Oh man, that is one sweet dryer! You have the more desirable model with the top load lint trap. The door mounted one takes a 90 degree bend and can build up lint. Yours makes a little mess when cleaning, but is much safer.
I have had a Lady Kenmore Series 90 washer and Whirlpool dryer for over 30 years.
Just replaced and cleaned each over the last few years. These things are really well thought out and easy to work on.
I needed a transmission shaft and found a local repair person on Craigslist. He said that people get rid of these, get new ones and then come to him to buy the older models again as they last forever.
If you have to service, but genuine Whirlpool parts. I put some plastic pads in from Amazon and my washer still vibrated, bought the Whirlpool parts for much more but everything spins nicely now.
No more 60s muscle cars for me, these are my hot rods now.
One of my lifelong friends gave me his old set when I moved here, the washer just went out and replaced it. I can no longer throw large appliances around to repair, I call for service like everyone else these days.
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1 hour ago, Islander said:
Heat is a useful tool. I bought a heat gun (similar in size and shape to a hair dryer, but with much hotter settings) years ago, and was surprised to see how often I used it. For example, for heat shrink tubing, it’s miles ahead of using a lighter.
For sure, still have Grandpas Milwaukee. Just used it to shrink the plastic over my crappy windows.
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12 hours ago, Islander said:
Is there a pair of burnt-looking dinner knives in the case with it, or is that era long past?
I did have a scraper used to aid in melting the rubber soundproof coating over GM air conditioning evaporator housings that were all too commonly replaced.
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Lightly coat with Permatex or similar and let cure. Tape off where you need to.
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Weight determines tuning, surrounds are designed to move freely.
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16 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
Really dumb question here. How to you specify a passive radiator?
Can you just get a K33 or equivalent and remove the magnet and driver? Is that close enough to work?
Or even a cheap speaker like this?
Cone material should not make much difference, proper weight, enough travel and sealed dust caps.
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Giving those away if they're in decent condition
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Pita shells work for Pizza crust in a pinch, in fact taco shells work too but I guess it's no longer a Pizza then.
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If you don't wish to disturb the neighbors, listen to elevator music at low levels or wife won't put up with it by all means buy something to support a set of bookshelf speakers.
You want impact and immersion you don't skimp where it's needed most.
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34 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
you dont "need" something substantial... as wuzzzer mentioned a mid level sealed (or ported) SVS sub or comparable brand like HSU will fill in the lower octave range nicely & sealed subs will be very musical. its not always about max DB & huge subs that dont fit well in many rooms or the WAF etc. also dont always need the absolute lowest hz, most music doesnt go much below ~40hz but most klipsch speakers fall off fast below that number so all you really need is a decent quality sub to fill in where the speakers drop off. yes horn loaded subs are best for horn loaded speakers but most require building them yourself &/or are very expensive & need an external amp to drive them.
I asked a similar question about a year or so ago for a good sub for my chorus2 & got the same reply that i "need" a huge 15" ported sub or a horn sub & nothing else would work, was shown different graphs comparing max decibels of subs & told a sealed wouldnt work because chorus were "big boy" speakers & needed big subs... LOL. i since have purchased dual SVS sb2000s & they make a huge improvement filling in that lower octave that most speakers can lack, especially at lower to medium volume levels. & they arent even tuned with a miniDSP, just played with positioning & the settings a bit but i do plan to get a mini dsp soon. ive also owned many other subs over the years & for music i prefer a sealed sub over a ported of the brands ive owned. sealed do very well for home theater also but a ported sub will have more DB & usually go lower by a small amount so most people prefer ported over sealed for movie use.
lots of used subs out there for decent prices, all depends on your budget but you cant go wrong with new SVS for the performance & especially the customer service & other benefits they offer like free in home trials, upgrade program & transferable warranties & all the free tech help you will ever need.
ZOOM right over your head.
Sealed subs= double up again.
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There's likely a dried up capacitor in the crossover for another project.
Looks good and enjoy.
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My Snap on still works after 30 years. built to last.
Others had Fluke and Klein meters.
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On 1/20/2022 at 6:18 PM, The History Kid said:
I've heard them read out about 100 different ways. I usually just say "torx", but at least three hardware stores around me will just look at you goofy if you say it that way. lol
Spell it out for them. Looks like a star only different.
Help the store "folk" learn something that day.
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2 ported 15s need something substantial.
Start looking at multiple 15s and up, horns blend nice.
Grand will getcha Minidsp, mic & 2 of the bigger Dayton audio subs. good start
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Sanding would have helped, too late now.
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Fish eyes don't sand out.
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Heard of Torx and Torx with the pin in center but never Tor-X. Something new or spelling error ?
If Ace or True value don't have it in stock they can normally get it.
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Looking at that paint job, color is cool but doubt even Earl Scheib would let that finish out the door.
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22 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
yeah im pretty familiar with particle board, OSB & MDF & other woods, ive done quite a few amateur wood projects & used to build sub boxes for car audio, hard to tell for sure in the pics posted but the edges of the driver cut outs on the 5000s look very similar to the 500's i have here... but the fortes & academy cabinets are definitely smooth & much finer like other speaker quality MDF i have seen, MDF is usually like a very fine saw dust or flour consistency glued together while the average particle board is more like sand or a bit more coarse fibers.
but if the only difference for the weight is the cabinet material then the 5000s must be an MDF. thanks again for the help.
MDF = Medium density fiberboard.
Larger fibers = low density LDF
HDF is smaller fibers & heavier I believe. (been a while)
Very similar products.
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Topping PA5 is incredible.
in Solid State
Posted
Been following this a bit.
This sizzle mentioned measurable or just your thoughts Claude ?
All of my muscle cars had steep gears and we're screaming pretty good at 80.