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jason str

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Everything posted by jason str

  1. Looks like a custom knockoff to me. Veneer would be very difficult inside the bass bin, its probably best to disassemble and veneer the panels that way or build new ones with pre-veneered plywood sheets.
  2. Crispy fries dipped in a Wendy's frosty is the way to go. Sounds gross but it works.
  3. Using feet, not likely. Attaching the bass bin to the top section as an alternative, could be.
  4. Save some cash and get the Dayton UMM-6
  5. I doubt flipping the bass bin 90 degrees will do anything but experimentation is free. Install braces.
  6. Many here have probably heard them in the past and just didn't realize it.
  7. The Altec Lansing "Voice of the theater" models A1-A8 was used since the 1940's and still in many theaters and homes today. I can't see how these did not make the list. Dam good sounding speakers too.
  8. If you really need more bass and want to keep the La Scala's i suggest using your money on a parametric equalizer (PEQ), porting the cabinet will also help.
  9. Wish i had better news for you. I have done much testing with many models (big, small & multiples of them) and have come to the conclusion i recommended to you and others. Save your $$$ and do it right the first time.
  10. If you need a sub for La Scala's get a horn loaded sub. None of the subs mentioned here will do them justice.
  11. The kit mentioned earlier or the Ultimax 15" kit ? The 15" Ultimax kit is fine. The HO kit if you could substitute the HF series driver is OK. I'm just not a fan of sealed subs unless you have a bunch of them.
  12. Ultimax kit The Kits only include driver & cabinet. You will need to buy a terminal cup, screws, stuffing and wire to complete the basic build. I mention a terminal cup because i don't recommend installing the amplifier in the cabinet.
  13. No, you would at least need a jigsaw.
  14. I can get close to $300. Cabinet Driver Add a 14" long 4" flared end port tube or use PVC pipe to save a bit. F3 will be about 23 Hz
  15. Not really the correct volume for the driver. If you want to build something do it right the first time so you don't waste money or valuable time. Happy to help if you need it.
  16. Neither unless you are looking at car audio application. You may be OK with the 15" version if you port the cabinet.
  17. Screws ain't cheap, be grateful you have four.
  18. Never used it and really would depend where the hole was located. If its in a hidden area try clear caulk. If not hidden use wood filler of similar color.
  19. Old thread alert. Amplifiers in this model are commonly faulty, if its anything more than a fuse its not worth fixing.
  20. Nails are there to keep the panels together and aligned until the glue dries, pull it out if you can twisting with vice grips to minimize splintering of the wood finish. Cant see really but if the nail goes into the driver cabinet be sure to seal the hole to avoid leaks.
  21. Its part of a recipe, try it without and its too tart and sweet. Club soda works too, just don't shake it in a shaker.
  22. In a 2 quart container or double for gallon. 12 Oz water 1/2 fifth Tequilla 4 Oz Mango nectar Top of with Mr & Ms T's margarita mix Optional squeezed 1/2 orange Stir and serve over ice or shaker w-ice
  23. Port the DR 300 and you have your 50 Hz-2 kHz horn, no Bullshit there.
  24. A Cornwall and Heresy use direct radiating woofers witch is the weak point of the design, of course it will make a huge difference. I call bullshit that you can't have a horn that plays from 50Hz to even 2kHz, there is no reason it cannot be done. I'm out for the weekend, be back soon. Enjoy.
  25. The marketplace wants small compact systems but most who owned horns will never want to go back. As far as building goes its no longer in the cards for me, just answering questions to the best of my knowledge.
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