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EdmundGTP

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Everything posted by EdmundGTP

  1. Blast from the past I know, but there is a local guy here in AZ who advertises to fix most brands of speaker amplifiers. http://edwardselectronics.net/1901.html Saw him by chance with a listing on ebay. No personal experience with them though. I tried messaging him to offer my unused KSP400 amps to him but never heard back. Either way, if anyone else has a use for a pair of KSP400 amps let me know. I'd be happy to mail them out for the cost of shipping.
  2. Furnitech FT72CC Center Channel opening is 10" X 28" It was one of the few (if only, that I can recall now) entertainment cabinets that would fit my KSP-C6 center. Not really cheap, but it's a VERY substantial and well built piece of AV furniture. I could easily see this thing outlasting all of the equipment that it's filled with. It's shipped fully assembled so freight is a bit pricey too. I ordered from them direct, and actually got a better price than what's advertised at dealers on the web. Great company to deal with!!! One of these days I'll get some better pics of my current setup.
  3. The point at which a subwoofer, or series of suboofers becomes "too big," is when it begins to physically inhibit your ability to be in the same room as it.
  4. Grilles on or off? Strictly personal preference. Unfortunately in my case, my GF's cats made the decision for me.
  5. Most of them are different; not all. Biggest thing you need to evaluate before moving forward is your budget and what you want the system to do. Matching the performance capability of the F113 system isn't going to be "cheap" either way, and will be damn near impossible using a pair of $60 woofers and only 700 watts. Figure out what you want the system to be capable of. I.e. XXX dB @ XX Hz, with a -3 dB point of XX Hz Once you decide that, it may be more cost effective to use 1 15 inch or 1 18 inch sub instead of dual 12's, or maybe even a single driver with a passive radiator. There are many options, but once you narrow it down to a few choices for drivers, amps, enclosure types, you can use a program called WinISD to fairly accurately assess what the true performance capabilities of the sub will be. A couple years back I was debating doing a custom build sub and was much more knowledgeable on components that were available back then. Not so much these days. As luck would have it, I came across a smokin deal on a large eD sub that fit my goals and just couldnt pass up. The bang/buck ratio on a DIY build can be HUGE, and the guys over at HTS can help out with that.
  6. I'd start looking at actual home audio subwoofers instead of car audio subwoofers. They are different animals, albeit in some cases only very slightly. Have a look over at the DIY subwoofer forum sections over at http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/ Check out some of the builds over there. Figure out what performance specs you want to shoot for, then decide how much you want to spend. There should be plenty of ideas and info over there to get you headed in the right direction.
  7. Honestly, the cost to feature ratio of the Behringer Feedback Destroyer is almost impossible to beat.. Period.. It has dual channels, so right off the bat you have the ability to EQ 2 subs independently with a single unit.
  8. Dual Folded Horns would be killer!! Start a build-thread if you end up going that route.
  9. 40" x 30" ?? You sure you'll even be able to fit a chair in that space? Assuming you mean 40' X 30'. Which is a pretty significant space. Unless you're going to physically wall-off a section of the room to enclose your theater area in, you'll need a fairly serious sub to get really great SPL output in that big of a space.Given your budget, you're really going to want to milk the bang-for-buck factor on whichever sub you end up going with. One (or two) of the larger subs from Elemental Designs would probably fit the bill. Or maybe the highly regarded SVS PB-13, which is a bit over budget. Considering you have so much space to work with, your lack of concern for size, and depending how handy you are with tools, wood, and glue, you might want to think about going with a DIY Folded Horn type Sub, or even a Sonotube Sub. The performance/price ratio for subs of that type typically exceed what's available commercially by a significant margin.
  10. Not even that happens with my speakers. We had our church family group over for a potluck dinner a while back and through some extra sensory perception, while I was in another room, I was able to detect a plate of food being placed on one of my RF-63's. I very rapidly but with graceful smoothness made my way over to the guilty guest and politely asked her to place her plate in her lap while she was eating. She was very accommodating with my request and was given a crash course by her husband(he got it) about the food and beverage thing near or on top of a guys audio gear. Bill Thank the lord for the rounded tops of the KSP towers. Don't have to worry about such things. That and I hardly ever have people over at my house.
  11. I just got a logitech harmony one, and it's the cat's *** fo sho. Highly recommended if it's compatible with your particular unit.
  12. I thought elliptical machines and stationary bikes were two totally different machines?
  13. Not sure why you'd bother crossing over your fronts and center at a different frequency, unless your center channel has SERIOUS low end limitations. You'd never want to leave a gap between channels like you have in your example, unless your room and set up somehow create a nasty peak in frequency response at like 55 hz. Typically people cross their subs over at the same frequency as their mains AND center. Most frequently 80 Hz across the board, or slightly lower if you have "capable" main, center and surround speakers.
  14. It looks like it won't be a good choice if you have more than 1 sub tho, no sub EQ. I do run multiple subs, but EQ them with a Behringer BFD and an UltraGain unit. Wouldnt make much difference for me, although, the ability to independently EQ two separate subs would be absolutely KILLER.
  15. that is a killer set up nezff. how do you like those eD speakers? I have an eD A7-350 running along with my KSP-400 sub towers and it seriously pounds. Cant imagin what dual 450's is like. Other than their subs though I haven't heard much feed back on their full range speaker offerings.
  16. Looks like a pretty nice unit. I'll have to pay attention to reviews on it once it starts landing in peoples' equipment racks. EDIT: Speaking of the Yamaha 1010, Vanns has a smokin deal on an "open box" 1010 for $650 bucks. If I was in a position to buy right now, it would already be sold, but for the time being I can pass the deal along. http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/item/details/538194241?i_c=CP-openbox-receiversampstuners
  17. Huh?.. the seller already has the money.....I tell you what, you buy an item for me, I'll give you $100 over the cost as long as all goes well.Then you'll make $100 bucks for your trouble.Sound good? I'm sure other members would be glad to offer the same, you could make a bundle. Yeah I'm in on this. Actually I'm pretty sure I've narrowed down my AVR search to a Yamaha RX-A1010 when I get around to picking one up.
  18. I'd guess it probably doesn't require a specific or very fancy mic simply to measure the SPL level of each speaker. A mic is a mic is a mic as far as this application is concerned, I believe. Could be wrong though..
  19. If cost were no object I'd have a theater room packed full of WIlson Audio Alexandria XLF's (one for each channel) an assortment of subwoofers and stacks of Krell monoblock amplifiers.
  20. Was just doing some hunting onlin for AVR's and came across this. http://desktop.toolshomes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2532&offer_id=B003R7KMRY There are several other similar web sites supposedly selling this AVR for what seems to be a ridiculously low price. Is this real life?
  21. I believe all of the assumptions in your first paragraph are correct, and spot on. Though I seriously doubt any receiver would output a sub signal that wasn't High Passed somewhere in the 80-120 Hz range. 8 Filters should be more than enough to equilize the frequency range between 20 and 80 Hz. On my BFD, I believe I only use 4 filters for the sub signal going to my KSP's and 5 filters for the signal going to my other subwoofer. Each filter will have a base frequency which appears to be user defineable on the XTi. This is the frequency around which you either boost or cut the signal. The Q factor comes in where you decide the "spread" over which you decide to apply the boost/cut and this is general defined in fractions of octaves. For example (and this is a seriously simplified dumbed down example). You do a frequency response chart of your subwoofer system, and find you have a large "Hump" that peaks at +8 dB or so and it is centered right at 60 Hz and tapers down to "normal" volume ranges at 45 Hz on the low side of the chart and 75 Hz on the higher side. You would create a filter for 60 Hz. And you would assign a Q value to the filter. It's based on octaves of your principal filter frequency. So if your Q factor is set to 1 whole octave, that means that your filter will apply a boost or cut to a frequency range that spreads from 1 octave below your filter frequency to 1 octave above. In other words, this would be a very "broad" filter and would boost/cut the entire frequency range from 0 Hz to 120 Hz. Since your "Hump" is much narrower; it only extends to 15 Hz below and 15 Hz above your peak at 60. You would use a Q factor of 1/4 octave. 1/4 of 60 Hz is 15 Hz, and thus would define a range of 45 Hz to 75 Hz to which a signal boost or cut would be applied. In this case you would experiment with cutting the signal by 6 dB or so to begin with, to see how that "levels out" your frequency response graph. You may find that you need to cut the signal by as much as 10 dB on this particular filter to tame the hump. If that paragraph was totally confusing try reading through this article at home theater shack on the BFD. http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/bfdmeasure/ Towards the bottom it explains a bit more about how to set up the filters to most effectively correct your frequency response curve. As far as auto turn on functions. The quickest and cheapest way to do this, is by using a current sensing surge protector. I use one myself, but AFTER a stand-alone power conditioner. This is the same unit actually. http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Socket-Energy-Saving-Outlet/dp/B003P2UMQ2/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_c I plug this into my power conditioner. Plug my receiver into the master outlet, and plug the amplifier into one of the "master controlled" outlets. When I turn my receiver on, the surge unit senses the current and sends power to the amplifier. Most amplifiers have roughly a 5 second internal turn on delay, which menas 5 seconds pass between when the amp powers on, and acual audio signal is allowed to pass through. This makes the amp turn on automatically with my receiver and the amp has enough of an internal delay to avoid any turn on "pops" or "thumps". Unless your receiver and sub amplifier each pull enough current to justify separate electrical breakers in your main panel, this thing should be more than adequate.
  22. No prob. There's actually a few of those questions that I might not have much valuable input on. I actually had to glance throught he manual for that amp to check on some of the things. It's usually a good idea to read through the amp owners manuals to understand their full capabilities before actually pulling the trigger on one. The manual for the XTi1002 can be seen here. http://www.crownaudio.com/pdf/amps/143060.pdf As far as the input and output EQ. The difference between those is that the input one EQ's the signal BEFORE the internal crossover and the output one EQ's the signal after it. If you aren't actually using the crossover feature of the amp, then it may not matter which of those 2 EQ options you use. I'm guessing you could use both if you really had to. I didn't see any reference to it in the manual but the "shelving" filter may be what would amount to another crossover option that would most likely be employed as a sub-sonic filter. All crossovers are of some type of "pass". Crossovers are set to operate at a certain frequency, (for example say 80 Hz). High pass crossovers would allow everything from 80 Hz and up to be heard, and Low pass crossovers would allow everything from 80 Hz down to be heard. Pass band gain allows you to increase the magnitude of the singal which the crossover is passing through. You probably wont have to use any of the amps crossover features, since your receiver will already limit the signal going to the subs to be bass only, and I'm guessing it would be adjustable from probably 80, 100, or 120 Hz. The only crossover option that I would probably use on the XTi is a high-pass crossover set to 20 Hz @ 24 dB/Octave. The 3 dB down point of the KSP subs is rated at 27 Hz according to their specs, and you'll want to limit the amount of subsonic frequencies (20 Hz and below) going to them in order to avoid over excursion damage. Polarity is essentially the same as phase control. You can also get the same type of phase/polarity control results by playing with the delay a little bit. Admittedly I don't know much about those options and haven't messed with them much in my own system. According to the amp manual, there is a mode in which it applies the channel 1 input signal to both channel 1 and channel 2 outputs. So you could skip the Y splitter in your signal line. Just run a single RCA cablewith an XLR adapter at the end of it to the Channel 1 input and set the amp's input mode to "Input Y". I believe there are other Pro audio amps that actually have RCA inputs on them if you want to skip the RCA to XLR conversion. Not sure which specifically; it's been a while since I did any serious looking at them. But there are many options aside from Crown. QSC, Samson, Behringer, etc. When it comes down to actualy EQ'ing your subs, the menu and controls of the Crown EQ system may prove to be cumbersome to operate. The sub EQ process can be tedious but the results are worth it.
  23. No specific reason really. I just happened to have been able to get those components at great prices. Plus the feedback destroyer has amazing equalizing capabilities. Being that I run "two" concurent subwoofer systems at the same time, the 2 channels of the BFD allow me to eq both easily and independently of one another. I actually also run a behringer ultragain mic2200 (before the BFD) in the subwoofer signal chain for basic signal boosting going from RCA singal level to XLR connector level (which is the only kind of input my particular amp has), subsonic filtering for the KSP's For just the pair of KSP subs, an XTi amp should probably be more than adequate. 2019 EDIT: I no longer run the Behringer Ultragain Mic2200 in the sub signal chain. Not necessary.
  24. Sounds like you need to experiment with placement. And it's possible that the room is just too big for that sub..
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