EdmundGTP

sick burn dude...

Bingo

Heh. Try not to hurt yourself pal. You'll get the hang of coherent English one of these days. [Y][Y]

That guy's still going????

.. what??? [:^)]

If youre interested in going the DIY route, go over to hometheatershack.com and check out the DIY subwoofer forums there. You'll find a wealth of information on how to go about it.

If you post what sort of budget range you're working with, the guys here can point you to a number of options that will be sure to please you. I still have yet to really push the limits of one of these, and highly recommend it. http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_41&products_id=746

It is probably not just on the same breaker, but some moron may very well have put it in paralel on the same run. You have two hots in a service center, and I always run recepticles on one leg and lights on the other when I wire a house. I hate dimming lights if I run a power tool, it is not good for the motor either. Class D amplifiers need to be able to draw alot of current fast. My pair of Velodynes are suposed to be capable of 1250 watts RMS and 3000 watts peak each. You are supposed to run a dedicated circuit for your microwave with not a single other outlet on the line. Why then would you not run a dedicated circuit for each sub if you have a descent one??? I ran two 30 amp breakers with 10 gauge, one circuit for each sub. Overkill?, YES, you betcha!! Roger / Gadfly Not a bad idea really. Perhaps I'll run 2 dedicated circuits with one for the sub and one for the rest of the HT/Stereo components. I'll be evaluating my wiring situation soon anyway when I replace the kitchen lights.

I got one that's even weirder than the OP. My sub is plugged into a power strip, which in turn goes to a wall outlet, obviously. The only thing connected to this outlet or the power strip is the sub. Sometimes, switching the fluorescent ceiling lights on/off in my kitchen (totally separate room) induces an audible thud in the sub. I suppose its possible that the outlet and those lights are on the same breaker, but even so, that seems very odd to me. Thoughts??

meh.. just saying it could have been a better rant. cheers dude[]

Rant: 5/10 -1 for horrible spelling and grammar. -1 for no system-edited curse words. -1 for low post count. -2 for generally making zero sense what-so-ever.

I spent a good portion of sunday pushing this thing around and taking measurements with my trusty (lame) radioshack meter and figured out the place with the smoothest response. Turns out that even the direction which the driver points made a significant difference in how smooth or "dippy" my response measured at. I ended up putting the sub pretty-much right where the CD towers are in that picture I posted above, directly below the right surround, and pointed the driver/port directly backwards at that corner where the lamp is. Prior to all that pushing around, I eq'd the KSP subs as best as I could and came up with the plot below. The Low pass xover was set to 100 hz and I used a high pass xover at 25hz. I stopped recording data at 100 hz so the data above that is leftover from other measurements I did. Same with the following two graphs. So next I eq'd the ED sub and got the following. Apologies for not having a before and after. In haste I overwrote the original data for both of the following graphs. Yes the level on the ED sub was set way too high compared to the KSP's and is also reflected below. Again.. stopped recording data above 100 hz. So after that I matched the levels of both a bit closer and measured them both at the same time. The only thing that Im not really sure on, is why I actually got readings below 14hz on the combined graph but not with either alone (the meter only reads down to 50db). But as before, I stopped collecting data over 100hz, and after measuring I turned the xover back down to 80, because that peak at 90 was bothersome. The extra low end output of the ED sub is an awesome improvement. Even without the 25hz high pass on the KSP's their response dropped noticeably below 30 hz. I havent had a chance to put this set-up through its paces yet. I'll probably tweak the sub levels a little bit more as the week goes by and play through some good sub demo DVDs.

Big difference? maybe. Change sound quality? probably a little. This is one of those things you can really only find out by trying and measuring.

*yawn* the Sennheiser case was way cooler

I don't think the thread view count has been working properly for a while now, and most people would just as soon not post as posting a "no". That being said, the sub section does get slow from time to time.

Well.. That flat, is relative to what I was using to measure it, which who knows how accurate that is. I used a radio shack spl meter, and plugged the values into a spreadsheet from the hometheatershack BFD manual measurement thread, which has the meter calibration values entered in. Also, I said flat to within plus OR minus 3 db, which is really a 6 db total spread. I did use a PEQ though to smooth the response.

Thanks. A few weeks back I managed to eq the subs in my mains to a fairly decent response curve. Flat to within +/- 3dB or so from 30hz to 80hz at my listening position, and that was with using identical eq filters for the left and right tower. I think my average volume when taking measurements was only 75-80db. I think I'll mess around with some of that phase setting business tonight after work.

It really ties my gag reflex together too. I'm in the process of replacing it all with tile. It's just turning into a rather long process. I'm sure it must have been the pimpest of pimp flooring back in '71 when this house was built but nowadays not so much.

Thanks for the input so far. The rest of my evenings this week will most likely be spent pushing that thing around and taking measurements. Lots of good tedious fun. The one thing I'm definitely no expert on is the whole phase thing. The only phase adjustability I have for either of the subs (KSP subs, or the eD) is a direct 180 deg. switch. Not a variable dial. Though I've read that altering the "sub distance" paramater on my receiver can be useful in adjusting for phase issues. I guess what I'm most unclear on is, how do I even know if I have a phase problem to begin with, and once I start tweaking knobs, how exactly do I know its set up correctly? Is it really a case of just changing things until it sounds the best, or is there some quantifiable way to measure it, or even certain indicators to look (listen) for? The other thing I forgot to mention, is that I'll only have the ability to adjust/eq the KSP subs as a pair and not individually. The processors I have are all 2 channel, and my plan was to use one channel of them for the KSP subs and the other channel for the eD. Obviously not the MOST ideal, but it's what I have to work with for the time being.

Monday afternoon I took delivery of an eD A7-350. It's definitely not small... Again disregard my hideous linoleum.. So now I have a couple of questions. Theresa pretty crude diagram of my set-up below. Each of those KSP's has a built in 15 inch sub which are now being powered by an outboard amplifier and processor. I plan to roll off the signal to the KSP's at about 25-30 hz and let the eD pick up the slack below that while also augmenting the KSP's with everything from 80 hz down. In the diagram, I have a few prospective sub locations picked out. Im wondering if anyone can suggest which may work best simply based on looking at my room geometry. To help you get an idea of how the diagram is laid out, the photograph above shows the sub in the "open entryway" area, looking left into the living room. Obviously its a little more complicated than just that, but any input helps. I've listened to the sub in all of those spots except for the one between the leg of the couch and KSP-R but not very extensively. So far the location directly behind the couch seems to work best. But I havent measured anything yet though, and that brings me to my 2nd question. The processors I have will give me the ability to EQ the KSP subs and the eD sub indepenently of one another. So in my case, would it be better to eq each of them by themselves, or do them both together? My first guess would be to eq them as flat as possible individually, then set the levels of each to match, but I'm no pro at this. Any opinions at all would be helpful. Thanks!

Yeah. Dig the fancy packaging! I too have a pair of HD555's that I use at work. Can't imagine how the HD800's would sound, being better by a count of 245 and all. []

Haha, yeah that is a debatable point. However the amount of time that the one amp was out of my possession for repair ended up being a rough total of about 9 months between two repair trips. Goodtimes: good luck with the fix! I hope it works out. If possible would you be able to forward me cutaway, schem, and instructions? I'd be interested to see them purely for curiosity's sake. Thanks. edmund(dot)alexander(at)gmail(dot)com

I typed up a rather lengthy reply to this and somehow forgot to submit it. Perfect. Anyway.. The plastic covering of the capacitor is probably what fell off. Probably should be replaced but I'd say odds are slim that it will fix your hum problem. As for getting the KSP's fixed. Klipsch no longer does direct repair of these speakers, nor do they carry any replacement parts for them anymore. They subcontract out the repairs to a couple of electronics repair companies. If you call Klipsch Tech Support, they will guide you to one of them. Typical cost to repair the speakers is $120 to $150 per speaker. The repair may or may not last, like in my particular case. I also got tired of shipping my amplifier back and forth across the country to be without a working speaker for weeks at a time. That's part of the reason I decided to retrofit the outboard amp. Compared to the original amps, my outboard amp and processor sound just as good, if not better than before. Doing it that way, gives you a much more customizable system than what was available with the original KSP amps. Whether you send the amp in for repair or go with the outboard amps is really a personal decision. If you have the willingness to do a little extra thinking, and fabrication, then it's an easy project. If you can go back and look through all my posts and pics and think to yourself "this is simple, I could do this easy," then I'd say go for it. Going with an outboard amp will probably be more expensive than sending the originals back in for repair, but to me it was a more dependable fix, and worth it when I can walk out to my living room and have a fully operational system instead of seeing one of my speakers gutted while the amp is halfway across the country getting fixed for weeks at a time.

Yeah. There-in lies the problem of having your subs attached to your mains. I dont exactly have any place else to put them.