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STL

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Everything posted by STL

  1. Anyone know the vent frequency of the KG-4? I have all the parts from a pair except the passive radiators. I plan to build some cabinets for those parts and was just going to do a port instead (since PRs and ports are both forms of venting enclosures) but I need to know the frequency.
  2. Then perhaps is a K-79-KP just a K-79-K with a titanium dome?
  3. Do you mean the K-792-KP? If so see:
  4. It might be helpful if we knew the make/model of the speaker you are talking about. Does the bi-amping setup also expect the output going to the mids & high will have all the lower frequencies removed? I am thinking it likely does, and just adding what you linked won't get that. Also, those crossovers you found appear to be woefully overpriced IMO.
  5. I have a couple 83s, three 72s, and one 84 (with broken leads) in a box in my basement. When I find the time perhaps I will take one diaphragm and try it in all three (different) motors taking a few measurements to see if there are differences. I have a DMM as well as a LCR meter.
  6. RandyH000, A couple more things that appear incorrect in your post above: 1) The pic you call K-83-Ks has dual cut-outs in the flange, but according to Klipsch it was used in the KG-1 (see https://f072605def1c9a5ef179-a0bc3fbf1884fc0965506ae2b946e1cd.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product-specsheets/KG-1-Spec-Sheet.pdf) and only has one cut-out. The K-72-Ks are used in the KG-2 and also has the single cut-out. So from the naked eye the 72 and 83 appear identical which makes me really wonder if the motors are somehow different -- or perhaps the 72 has ferrofluid and the 83 doesn't (as that difference would be enough to warrant a different part number). 2) I know the K-85-Ks are Tractrix because it says that right on the front of the horn in my KG-5.5s. The same horn in the 4.2 and 5.2 doesn't have it, but when they went to the 4.5 and 5.5 they added it.
  7. You sure about that K-84-K lens pic? It was used on the KG3/3.2/3.5 (among others) which has a 90°x40° exponential horn.
  8. Well that makes a little more sense than what I was told. After studying the 75s and 79s that I have closer, those two appear to be exactly the same physically -- but I thought perhaps I was not understanding what was meant by "a tighter top plate". Thanks for sharing and being helpful!
  9. Is the motor on the K-84-K the same as the motor on the K-83-K or K-72-K? I know those latter two have a different lens than the 84, but the motors on all three look the same physically. I am guessing in the 72 an 83 motors are indeed different despite looking the same (else there wouldn't be a reason for two distinct parts numbers).
  10. From what I have been told the difference between the 75 and 79 is in the motor. The top plate on the 75 is "tighter" than on the 79, and the magnet is 0.2 oz smaller on the 75. The tighter top plate and smaller magnet are supposed to offset each other -- making it so the 75 has about the same output as the 79. So I think the 75 is a cost savings to build over the 79 (without giving up any performance).
  11. I doubt it would be much of a match. The KI-102 has a freq. response of 75Hz-17kHz (+/-4dB) and uses one woofer per cabinet, while the KG 4 has a freq. response of 38Hz-20kHz (+/-3dB) and uses two woofers per cabinet. T-S specs for the K-8-K woofer used in the KG 4: Nomz= 4.00 Ohms Qms= 5.900 Fs= 27.99 Hz Cms= 1268.0000uM/N Revc= 7.00 Ohms Qes= 0.405 Fi=27.01 Hz Mms= 25.5000Grams Levc= 1.00mH Qts= 0.379 BL=8.80 TM Pmx= 100.0000Watts Splo= 88.62 db no= 0.40 % Sb= 0.0220sqM = 34.1000sqIn SPLi= 88.00db ni= 0.74 % Vas= 0.0870cuM =3.0724cuFT SPLi=88.58db @ Vg= 2.00V Xmax= 4.0000mm....= 0.1575 In These should help you locate a suitable woofer to use as a replacement.
  12. I would email Klipsch and see if they would give you the T-S specs for that woofer. Or if you have one good woofer, you could measure the specs using Dayton Audio DATS Dayton Audio Test System. Once you have some specs, then you can find a proper replacement. If you need help I -- or others here -- can assist. I once helped someone find some suitable replacement woofer for their KG 4s. And it's doubtful that you will find an exact match, so I recommend replacing both woofers (even if you have one good one). Also, be careful of eBay sellers claiming to to selling non-klipsch woofers that match. The ones I've seen won't provide the specs for the woofers they are selling and/or the specs they provide aren't remotely close the the OEM drivers (I was looking at KG 4 woofers BTW). Lastly, you might consider upgrading to some KG 4s for the rears for a better match.
  13. You don't understand. The length is not / 2. It is X 2! Correct. The same would be true if one wanted to replace the single 3" port in the KLF-10 with two 3" ports -- the port lengths on those two new ports would need to double (to maintain the same tuning frequency).
  14. Yes, in theory it doesn't depend if the venting is done with a tube port of a slot port. If the both have the same cross-sectional area, then they'll have the same length (to attain the same tuning frequency). That said, the area of a 2 1/8" circle is 3.54 inches squared -- so you'd really need a 1" x 3.5" slotted port (that is 5" deep). Remember the area of a circle is Pi times the square of the radius.
  15. The Klipsch parts department would likely sell you one. I don't know the number to call off-hand, but I bet you can find it on their website. You could check eBay to see if you getting lucky and find one cheaper there. That said, I bet it is just a cap that is blown. So if you can solder, it would be pretty easy (and much cheaper) to just fix it.
  16. I think you have the right idea adding fiberglass (or you could use polyester fiberbill) to help offset the small loss in volume from the new bracing. Just don't pack too much because you'll need to keep a clear path from the backside of the woofers to the port. Thanks for sharing the picture; I might have to do something similar in my KG5.5s one day. While you have things aparts, you might consider deadening the horn lens by adding some rope caulk to their backsides. I did one of my KG5.5 horns and did an A/B test and it seemed to be a good change (so I did the other as well as my custom center).
  17. Actually he would need the port to be twice as long if he keeps the port diameter the same (and makes the enclosure half as big) -- so 10" long. But since each enlcosure would only have one driver -- thus half as much air would be traveling through the port -- it would be reasonible to cut the port's area in half (leaving the length the same) like I suggested above. Here is an equation solving for port length this time: Lv = (23562.5*Dv^2/(Fb^2*Vb))-(0.732*Dv) where: Dv = port diameter (cm) Fb = tuning frequency (Hz) Vb = internal volume (litres) Lv = length of each port (cm) from http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/vent_tuning.htm. Do note that port diameter/length are in centimeters and the volume is in litres (instead of cubic inches).
  18. Funny. Fb, Vb, and Qts are T/S parameters. http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/ports.htm From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiele/Small: "Thiele/Small" commonly refers to a set of electromechanical parameters that define the specified low frequency performance of a loudspeaker driver. Fb and Vb are not T/S parameters. Fb is the tuning frequency of the enclosure or box (which I think is where the 'b' comes from) and Vb is the volume of the enclosure or box. As the equation above shows (and what I originally stated) only the port diameter, port length, and enclosure internal volume determine the frequency at which the port is tuned. And not one of those are parameters pertains the driver itself! And I said before, you do need to ensure the Qts of the driver you use in that enclosure has a value that is vent-able. But since he is using the same 10" drivers from the vented KLF-10, we already know that. So he does not need to know the driver's T/S parameters at all here. To be perfectly clear, he can create enclosures -- even ones that are slightly larger or smaller than the volume each driver is using in the stock enclosure -- and port them to the same frequency as the stock enclosure all without knowing any T/S parameters of the K-1056-K (the 10" driver in the KLF-10). And I am not just speaking theorectially either; I have done this myself when I made new enclosures for my KG3.5s.
  19. Actually, you can just make two enlcosures that are each half the size of the current one, then you would need to make the port in each enclosure be half the crossectional area of the existing port (and then the length would remain the same). For instance, one 3" port has the same crossectional area as two 2.12" ports.
  20. So you actually want to just use the 10" woofers from a KLF-10 in some new enclosures? That shouldn't all that hard to do, and you do NOT need to know the driver's T/S paramters at all for this. Since the drivers are already in a vented enclosure you know they are suited for one! I did something similar when I make new enclosures (that fit into some built-in bookcases in my old house) for my KG 3.5s. You just need to use the above equation to determine Fb. Then determine how big your new enlcosures are, pic a port diameter, then shuffle the above equation around to solve for Lv. You can to use the largest diameter port possible (to avoid any port noise) but the larger the diameter the long it will need to be.
  21. I am pretty sure that the driver's T/S parameters don't come into play when tuning a port. That said the driver must have a Qts that says it will work in a vented enclosure. I found this: Where Av is the cross-sectional area of the port (in square inches), Lv is the length of the port (in inches), Vb is the enlcosure's internal volume (in cubic inches), and Fb is the tuning frequency (in hertz). from http://www.jlaudio.com/header/Support/Tutorials/Enclosure+Ports/Tutorial%3A+Enclosure+Ports/287541 .
  22. There are equations for this. I don't know them off the top of my head, but I suspect they can be found with an internet search. The port diameter, port length, and enclosure internal volume determine the frequency at which the port it tuned. So you will need to determine that for your stock KLF-10 and keep it the same value for the new enclosure. You can replace the two 10" drivers with four 6.5" drivers because they two setups should move about the same amount of air. I did that when creating a center channel for my KG5.5 mains (they also use a pair of 10" woofers) -- see my avatar picture. When selecting 6.5" drivers you will want to ensure you get ones that are suitable for vented enclosures. That can be determined by looking at the Qts parameter, but again I don't recall the rule of thumb there. You should consider buying yourself a copy of The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook as it would contain all the info you need -- and then some.
  23. FYI, I created a Gallery for crossover schematics: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/gallery/album/34-crossovers/ Anyone have a KG 3.5 schematic? Or KG 3.2? Or even KG 3?
  24. I thought I had it, but evidently I don't. But I do have T-S specs for the K-8-K woofer used in the KG 4: Nomz= 4.00 Ohms Qms= 5.900 Fs= 27.99 Hz Cms= 1268.0000uM/N Revc= 7.00 Ohms Qes= 0.405 Fi=27.01 Hz Mms= 25.5000Grams Levc= 1.00mH Qts= 0.379 BL=8.80 TM Pmx= 100.0000Watts Splo= 88.62 db no= 0.40 % Sb= 0.0220sqM = 34.1000sqIn SPLi= 88.00db ni= 0.74 % Vas= 0.0870cuM =3.0724cuFT SPLi=88.58db @ Vg= 2.00V Xmax= 4.0000mm....= 0.1575 In
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