STL

So did you end up making a change to the port? In theory you'd need a lorger port (if keeping the diameter the same) to keep the vent frequency the same. You wouldn't want to make the port any smaller else you'd likely run into port noise issues. Also from your description, I'm not sure if your added bracing between the woofers has changed the airspace configuration -- meaning are the woofers still sharing airspace or are they effectively in separate enclosures now?

BTW, I have a pair of KG3.2 grills I'm not currently using, but I do have plans for them. Let me know if Klipsch can no longer supply them for you as I might be persuaded to sell mine.

I coated the back of the K-85-K horns in my KG5.5s with rope caulk, and that got rid of much of the harness. I have thought about bracing the cabinets, but unlike you I wouldn't do anything that would substantially change the internal volume of the cabinets. Decreasing the internal volume (and leaving the port untouched) means you're raising the venting frequency. While that will mean stronger bass output at higher (bass) frequencies; it also means less low end bass and a less linear frequency response (in the bass region).

Maybe it's just bad luck on your part, or maybe you need to research/question the buyers a little more before bidding.

I believe mine had K-85-K stamped on the magnet, but mine don't have bucking magnets installed like yours.

Sometimes PRs are used instead of ports because a properly sized port (for the venting freq. desired) won't fit in the enclosure -- whether it's due to the length of the port or its diameter. I have replaced the PR with a port (keeping the same venting frequency) on both a KG4.2 as well as a pair of KG3.2s -- in both cases the change was seemingly transparent.

djk, Oh come now! I have bought and sold a lot legitimate used (and sometimes new) items on eBay. I think you are painting a much darker picture of eBay than it is in reality. I'm not saying those things you mentioned never happen, but I think they are by far the exception and not the rule. Just about all my Klipsch speakers came from eBay.

Have you tried calling 1-800-KLIPSCH to see if they have some replacement grills for KG3.2s? A small thin layer of silicone should do the trick. You really don't need to worry about the small hole, but you might want to do the silicon to make sure it doesn't get any worse. You could just monitor it closely, and if it doesn't worsen then leave it well enough alone. How did it happen? Is it really a tear or is the rubber getting old and cracking?

According to the following links, the 64 uses an aluminum diaphragm (but it wouldn't be the first time they've listed some incorrect info on the out-of-production models): http://www.klipsch.com/products/discontinued/details/cf-2.aspx http://www.klipsch.com/products/details/kv-4.aspx

Nope, is that posted in one of the forums here?

The K-63-KN was used in the CF-3 as well as the CF-4. I do see the CF-2 and KV-4 used a K-64-KN. Both the 63 and 64 use a 2" aluminum diaphragm. What are you ultimately after -- meaning why do seek this info? If people knew that, they might be able to help in ways you haven't forseen.

Any chance using the switched outlet on the back of an amp/rec'r (for a fan -- whether if be VAC or VDC) might allow some noise to get picked up by the amp/rec'r? It just seems like the potential is there to raise the noise floor.

Did you happen to take some pictures of your H-15s for me when you have your camera out taking the fan pic? If so, put them in that other thread.

No need to apologize about the long post, but you should apologize for getting all those free parts from Cerwin Vega when I had to drop $200! Seriously though, can't wait to see some pics.

I found this quickly using the Search tool: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/411043.aspx

The rear 12" is just a passive so it is unlikely the problem. I suspect it one of the 8" woofers is the culprit. You should be able to figure it out fairly easily. With the speakers getting no signal, press on the woofers (near the where the center dustcap attaches to the cone) and listen for scratching sound or even feel. If none seem to exhibit that, it might be that one of the dust caps is just loose and buzzing so look for that too. If a woofer is indeed blown then you'll need to replace it -- but Klipsch no longer has replacement parts for KG4 woofers (but call 1-800-KLIPSCH to confirm). I once help a fellow here find a suitible replacement woofer so you might try searching for that thread (if need be).

SpinDoc, So did you win them? Someone got a heck of a good deal: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120173686521 I don't even need them but was tempted to bid on them! []

According to my information, the IW-250 used the same woofers (the K-1029-S) and tweeter (the K-86-K) as the KG2.5. So if you can find one, you could easily make it a KG2.5 with the addition of an enlcosure.

You only need one black and one red wire from the amp to each speaker. Of the 4 terminals labeled A, two of them are for the left speaker and two of them are for the right speaker. Your speaker has 4 terminals because it can be bi-amplified, but I wouldn't bother with that as it'd be a waste of money for little-to-no performance gain. Notice the two black terminals on your speaker should be connected to each other with a metal plate (and the same with the red) so you only need to connect to one (of each color). The manual/directions that came with your speakers should have explained that, and the manual for your Denon should also have some connection diagrams.

See my previous post. I agree it was rather unlikely, but the KG5.5 xover is actually very well suited for my four K-1075-SV drivers. It really wasn't that hard -- and I didn't even need to T/S paramters. First off all, the K-1075-SV woofer were used in both the SF-1 and the SF-2. While I aligned their top-end with the SF-1 (by modeling my xover off the one from the SF-1) I elected to model the low-end off the SF-2. I was able to get the internal dimensions of an SF-2 cabinet and therefore was able to determine its internal volume. I was also able to get the diameter and depth of the SF-2 port and therefore able to determine what frequency it was tuned to (since the venting freq. is only a function of the enclosure and port specs -- and not of the driver itself). I then started off trying to design a enclosure twice as big as SF-2 enclosure, but I ended up scaling that back (to just 1.5x). Then I simply tuned the ports of the new enclosure to the same frequency as the SF-2. I agree there is a difference, but disagree that it is substantial. In fact, I'd say there is less of a difference in the sonics between the 6.5" K-1075 and the 6.5" K-1019 than there is between the 6.5" K-1019 and the 10" K-1023. But what you don't seem to grasp is that the KG2.5 is still a compromise because it was designed to fit in a "small" space. It doesn't even use the same tweeter -- which is a big factor in timbre matching!

I mentioned a few posts up (with the finished-product pic) that I still needed to tweak the xover but hadn't yet found the time. Yes, I believe I am getting a little more midrange out of my speaker (around 1.6kHz). That's likely because the 6.5" drivers play higher that the 10" drivers can; so a slightly lower xover point is probably needed for the woofer. The schematic for the KG5.5 shows it uses a 1mH coil along with 24uF cap, and the schematic for the SF-1 (which used the K-1075-SV before later switching to the K-1078-SV -- which was due to a supplier change) also has a 1mH coil along with a 24uF cap. By running two sets of K-1075-SV drivers in series then paralleling those pairs together, I effectively get the same impedance as one driver -- so that's a match for the low-pass section of a SF-1 crossover which happens to uses the same values as a KG5.5. So you see the stock KG5.5 crossover is a much better match than one might think. Like I said, even without the tweaking the speaker sounds pretty darn good and much better than anything else I've used.

Wow you did get a sweet (no charge) deal from Cerwin Vega. I wish I'd been treated half as good as you! I had to spend $90 (plus shipping to them) to get each one of my woofers reconed!! Yes, please post a picture oro two of them.

Yes, that's a great place to start. After reading that, you'll then have to learn the nuisances by trail and error. []

Here is the finished product (minus the grill I still need to make). I used four K-1075-SV 6.5" woofers (used in the SF-2) because that's what I was able to find at good price. Originally I had a K-85-K and xover from a KG4.2, but later replaced them with KG5.5 parts. I still probably need to do some xover tweaking, but I haven't had the time (and it still sounds very good as is).

Here is a pic of my center under construction. Notice I angled (down) the front motorboard since the center is mounted above my 55" HDTV.