STL

quote: Originally posted by William F. Gil McDermott: To my knowledge there has not been a single horn version. The design is that each horn handles about 90 degrees of arc and the two cover 180 degrees together. There was a dual woofer version. Thanks for the info...that's what I was thinking too.

Thanks HornEd and RossVTaylor for the info, but I already have a pretty good background in surround and HT (but your information was very decriptive and will no doubt help future newbies who read these threads later). I'm just not real familiar with Klipsch's WDST design and it's real intent. I suspect it is trying to achieve some ambience like di- or bi-polar speakers (and would be more of a compromise for a discrete surround sound setup). As I mentioned above, I have the parts from a pair of KG4s that I will be building a enclosure for them, and I was trying to determine whether to build a WDST-type box or a regular box. Note these speakers will be installed in a built-in bookcases on my back wall of my room (so a WDST isn't looking like a good idea now). On a tanget, I honestly don't see the need for 6.1 surround (at least not with Klipsch drivers). My KG5.5s, just in stereo mode, setup such a good soundstage that it often sounds like I have a center channel playing! The fact that Klipsch horns stage so well and that a 6.1 mandated center speaker(s) would be directly behind the listen, I do not see how a listener would be able to really discern a true rear center speaker. It would seem that two properly driven (discrete type) rear surround speakers should easily be able to fool the listener into thinking there is a phantom center!

quote: Originally posted by William F. Gil McDermott: Theory ONE is that the "surround" speakers should have a design so that the sound can not be localized. I.e. seem to come from a specific location. The WDST design spreads the sound around so that it seems to come from everywhere. Therefore it is "ambiance." Theory TWO is that the frequency output of the surrounds should match that of the front units. This is because a lot of sound effects is not ambiance, but a real source (car, jet) which pans from front to back or back to front. As I understand it, Theory ONE bascially applies to matrixed surround (like Dolby Prologic) while Theory TWO applies to the newer discrete surround (like DD5.1 and DTS). I have been doing HT for quite awhile, so I have good understanding of the different surround sound techniques -- but since I don't have any WDST speakers I am trying to learn more about them (and I couldn't find a lot of specific info about the WDST concept on the Klipsch website). I have a pair of KG5.5s for front mains, and I bought a lone KG4.2 that I will re-box and use as my center (which should be a good match since it has the same tweeter as my 5.5s). I also have all the drivers (and xovers) out of a pair of KG4s. I plan to build an enclosure for them and use them as surround speakers -- so I was trying to decide what type (WDST or not) of box to build for them.

Are Klipsch WDST surround speakers made to me mounted on side or back walls? I suspect they are really made for side-wall mounting, but how well will they work for back-wall mounting (in terms of surround sound for DD5.1 and DTS movies)? Did Klipsch ever make a WDST speaker with a single horn in the center and two woofers (each firing away at different angles)? Since my HT system primarily showcases DD5.1 and DTS movies, would WDST surrounds really be the best choice or would 'regular' Klipsch speakers be a better choice for rear surround?

quote: Originally posted by avaddict: boa, My 333ES has bass cossover adjustments for the Front L/R speaks, the Center speak and the L/R Surrounds. Nothing to do with the EQ settings (the EQ settings IMO are not very user friendly on this model!) Also have an LFE high cut setting. Speaking of EQ settings, does anyone know if the EQ settings go up to the Hz setting you select, or are you setting just the one particular setting. (hope you know what I mean!!) FYI, I think those crossover settings might only apply if you have the speaker set to "small".

quote: Originally posted by Jim Cornell: extend the ports 4 inches! In reality, extending the port length lowers the tuning frequency of the port. Tuning the enclosure too low could cause a dip in your midbass frequencies. I've got KG5.5s myself, maybe I'll actually run the numbers and see exactly what you did. quote: Originally posted by Jim Cornell: put 8 guage flat wire to the drivers, giving them even better efficiency!! Wire that size for such a short run is really overkill. Replacing the stock wire with some good 12 or 14 guage OFC wire is a better choice. Soldering the wire directly to the speaker terminals (done correctly) would also give you a better connection than using connectors.

quote: Originally posted by bensilb: Keith & AVA Dont just take my word, compare the Sony STR333ES to the Yamaha RX-V800 on www.audioreview.com (both units are retailed at $799.99). As for your $590 price, its not worth it. Tweeter sells the same unit for $599. I asked my trusted salesman why it was lowered $200 from retail. He said Tweeter chose to lower it because they were not selling nearly as many of them as Yamaha and Denon. Well your 'trusted salesman' sounds like an idiot. Sony historically always sets their MSRPs considerly above the street price. Many companies do this, while some companies like Yamaha don't. If your 'trusted salesman' knew anything about the industry he would have known that...or maybe his margins are larger on the Yamaha equipment so he was pumping it! LOL As for the AudioReview article, wouldn't you expect a rec'r that cost $200 more to outperform a cheaper one? I know I would... I will admit that Sony's ES line isn't quite as good as it used to be (too many needless bells-&-whistles with a small drop quality) but it is still good stuff. My 333ES is just fine...

quote: Originally posted by decibel man: 4977, you can't put enough coats of primer on that MDF. My speakers are the same size as the RB-5's and they still took about 5 cans of sandable primer. I painted mine white, so they really had to be coated. The other problem that is created by not using enough primer is the MDF soaks up the paint. If you use any sort of gloss paint it will look dull in spots where the wood is still soaking the paint in. I remember the very moment I finally hooked the pair up and heard the creation I had been laboring over. It was a grand accomplishment. I know that some guys build speakers as a hobby, but this was my first attempt and first finished pair. I don't see a second pair in my near future, but I do not regret that project. I am glad that your project is going well. Good luck and happy listening, JT Many of my speaker designs were subwoofer boxes designed for car audio, so covering them with carpet (I've also used velour and vinyl) is easier than trying to get a nice paint job. I did make one set of home speakers during my college years. I used that flec-stone textured paint which did a good job of hiding surface imperfections. I admit that finishing cabinets can be just a hard as correctly designing them!

quote: Originally posted by 4977: Since I already have a KG 5.5 with a damaged cabinet I am going to buy a sheet of plywood and try to put it together this weekend. Good Luck, Q You do not want to use plywood! You should use 3/4" MDF. I've designed and built many a speaker box myself. I am currently using a pair of KG5.5s for front mains, and I bought a lone KG4.2 to re-box to use as my center (note it uses the same tweeter as my mains so it should a superb match). I also purchased all the drivers and xovers from a pair of KG4s which I plan to use a surround speakers once I build a custom enclosure that fits into my builtin bookcases (that are located in the back of my room). If you have any enclosure design or construction questions feel free to ask me!