ClintonH

the sw-112 is a horrible subwoofer. Probably the worst sub I've ever had in my house. I couldn't sell them fast enough. Lol never heard em just ran across the specs and they spec out better than the other one the OP listed. Good thing you chimmed in with such force.

And just another option for you, this is Klipsch sub has 50% more actual RMS power and digs a little deeper (not much). It's also $75 cheaper. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882780073&cm_re=klipsch_subwoofer-_-82-780-073-_-Product

I'm sure it would match fine but I would get 2 if your able, would even out the bass and overall far better in room response.

Not sure what kind of $$ your looking to spend but I run 3 JL Audio subs with my 3 modded RC-7 front stage. They are some of the cleanest subs I have heard with huge excursion for tiny footprint.

I agree, if your giong to actually use your ATMOS speakers in your front towers you really can't go that high with the surrounds anyway. You need level seperation, I know I've said that a few times but really to use your speakers properly there are guidelines you should follow.

Wasn't a issue just a question, I'm not in the US so have no idea what $225K buyes, here it would buy you a decent condo or town house even with the exchange. Back to your question I would still say Willland gave you the best answer in post #3. With your layout it's going to be your best bet.

I agree with wvu80 the new AVR's are some nice pieces, great looking setup so far.

Sweet love watching a build, so many on the go right now.

Correct but he's asking about setting up ATMOS so choices are limited if you want to make it work. If you don't have the seperation it's just not going to worth the $$ spent. Mine as well setup a well layed out 5.1 or 6.1 rather than worry about adding more speakers that are not going to give you any better experience. well to me id rather have a proper 5.1 before a improper 7.1 and I definitely would rather have a well setup 5.1 or 7.1 before a subpar atmos setup. Just me. I see he wants atmos since he got the atmos towers from Klipsch but me personally I'd skip it cause like I said, 225k house I ain't laying speakers out in the middle of the room. My opinion of course. Then we agree, I'm just answering what the OP asked. Ans sorry you keep bringing up the house price of $225K, is that a lot for the US? I misunderstood, even with the crazy exchange rate that kind of money wouldn't even get you into a small starter house here.

Correct but he's asking about setting up ATMOS so choices are limited if you want to make it work. If you don't have the seperation it's just not going to worth the $$ spent. Mine as well setup a well layed out 5.1 or 6.1 rather than worry about adding more speakers that are not going to give you any better experience.

im not opposed to putting speakers in the ceiling even if they have to be in the dining / kitchen area and aim them forward toward the 6 o clock position sofa.. this is the main place we watch tv from.. Surrounds in the ceiling will sound very odd, surrounds are supposed to be at or just above ear hieght. If your goind with Atmos they really can't be in the ceiling and work anyway, you need a certian ditance between your ear level speakers and hieght speakers to work properly.

Lol I noticed that, but centered with the 7's.

MAn those are some nice RF-7's, really like the full/front baffle veneer on the classics.

Thank you, clarifies what you meant by 10Hz. was not trying to dispute that the JL is a great sub and you did an amazing job! NP, I just don't see the point in measuring your gear not in your room. That's where your going to use it so makes sense to see how it responds in place. And managed to get the send front 13W7 sub veneered and 2 coats of stain on tonight. I used a different brand for this one and totally doesn't match the other side since I stained it a different way as well. I like it way better so I'll end up rebuilding the first box sometime to match this one. Will be painting the front and back texture black (like the first sub) tomorrow and maybe a coat or 2 of varnish on the Walnut. Second time veneering, so be kind.

Yes sir as soon as Youth said hood latch I knew it would be a bearclaw type so I'm 100% caught up. Thanks man. And yeah I have some of that extusion a tiny bit bigger and no way is that going to sag, awesome job BTW.

This is the recommended spandex for the US I believe, they don't seem to have light grey though. The Spandex world Milliskin, Fabricland Active wear and Seymour XD were found to be very close in acoustic transparency any difference would be negligible. http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795

I know...I thought the very same thing. Take a look at Page 9 of my build thread. Are you referring to the latch at the bottom of the screen? It's basically the equivalent to a hood latch. I'll see if Wakejunkie can give some more details. I'm wondering if we might have to put some very thin vertical supports behind the screen. Without them, I'm wondering if the screen will sag when raised up due to the enormous surface area. Yeah like pucker time. Ah I see your hinges now, must have been drunk when I looked at that part of the thread. I don't see a latch but if it's a bear claw type that makes perfect sense and easy to find all these parts for me, we have about 60 cars in the back yard that I can take em off. Dad owned a body shop till he passed, collected a lot of stuff. Thanks for pointing me to the right page, and I very much doubt your going to have a sag issue with double aluminum angle.

You'd love a matching LCR way better than the RC-64. You'll be so happy you chose to go with a AT screen regardless which center you go with.

2X the Xmax and 2X the power? As far as can see your Infinity can handle 350 watts RMS and has a 14 mm Xmax plus it's a 12" driver. The JL can do 1500 watts RMS and has a 32mm Xmax , I know not a huge difference in Xmax but with the larger cone and 4X the power handling. The W7 has just over 3X the displacement with the cone area and Xmax alone. Yes in room with one channel of a 6000DSP no EQ or processing of any kind, it is flat down to 10hz as you can see in the graph I posted.

That is a whole lota diamonds, they look great. Had a to be a bit tense after you get so far, you really don't want to mess that up after that much time and effort. Really can't wait to see this all together. BTW wanted to ask what are you using for hinges on your screen? I see your going to use gas shocks to hold it open and help close it tight but curious on the hinge and latch. I am going to be helping a friend build a hinge system for his 180" AT screen in about a month and this looks very similar to what he had in mind.

I agree with all posted, the Marantz or Denon are more than enough to make em sound great. I run my full 5.3.4 system from a Denon X4100 and I don't feel it is lacking at all, never had it past 75 and most of the time listen at maybe 40-45 ( Max is 98)

And a bit of a update, I got the center channel in a few days ago, it looks smaller but it's the same size as the others just a lighter paint. Havn't rerun Audyssey yet but even still it is so much clearer and dynamic sound stage is seamless between the three, super happy with the outcome and it should just get better. Cleaned up the wires a bit as well, with a case for the wires running up behind the sceen Also built a quick cover for my AV rack out of 1x2" poplar covered in speaker grille cloth and held on by the spring loaded magnet dealies.

Thanks man Yes my screen would be the same white with the "silver" on top, that is what it is listed at but really it's a light grey. This stuff is Canada only (first time for everything) tested a bit better than the stuff from the US that was tested. Just a bit better for AT, not sure about picture. Canada only you say? well where did you buy the spandex? What brand? I gather from a fabric store? I am in montreal... thinking of doing the same. But why 2 layers? Or is the screen reversible? white on one side.. .grey on the other? Just puzzled if indeed it is 2 layers. Exaactly as MLO said it's for bleed through and since it's a stretched fabric the white behinde the grey (it's actually called silver) makes it a little brighter but still has far better blacks than a white top fabric. It's called Heavy Activewear Silver from Fabricland. http://fabricville.com/en/heavy-activewear-silver.html And the white is the same just white. lol For a 110" screen I bought 2.5 meters of each and has a bit left over, if you stretched it really nicely you might get by with 2 meters but it would be tight at 10" Lol yes but it's not your average sub and it's almost exact to what they use in there home line of Subs. The Fathom hase a little stronger motor and a bit more excurssion, other than that same dirver. And yes one of these destroys my old TC Sounds LMS 15" that was in a 4 cubic foot box. I have two 13W7's (other one is not veneered yet) each in 1.875 cubic foot sealed boxes, they extend fairly flat down to 10hz in room and they will take everything the Nu6000DSP can give which is 1800 watts per channel RMS . And behind the couch for nearfield I have a 12W7 run in a 1.375 cubic foot box, it will be run off a NU3000DSP 1800 watts RMS. It's running off one side of the Nu6000 right now since I only have the 2. Anyway yes they are fantasitc subs, very happy with the time and effort I put into em. Here is the the first sub measurement with REW no EQ etc, the dip at 60 is a room null where I had it placed. Don't pay attention to anything after 10hz, REW is not accurate past 10 as far as I have read. Yes that is a cool sub. I made a 4ft vented for an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12 inch. (I got a pair cheap) tuned to 20Hz. but man yours are tiny? Where they flat down to 10 Hz when simulated in something like WinISP? Or are you talking flat with room gain? (just as in car subs?) The Infinities where not good in a small sealed box. The reason I can use a tiny box is because they are desgined for a small box, your Infinity is just not on the same par just a budget sub but great for there price if you can afford the space they take. I had no desire to fill my room with huge boxes so I paid a little more for my subs and put 2000 watss RMS into each one in a 1.875 cft box and they can take it with no problem at all. Here is a picture of one of the 13W7's next to a pop can for size ref and a 8" driver out of a RF35. They weigh 54 LBS each so there built fairly well, made my TC sounds look small. lol

Holy wow that is what I call a answer MG.

May I ask what brand and type? Is this fixed? I am interested in one also but I will also have a flatscreen TV so the AT screen has to be roll up or another form of storage. Not to derail the OP thread, you can see it here. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/162164-super-budget-theater-rebuild/