Q-Man

There you go, you have a lot more room then 24" if you have a rear pro. TV. Get rid of your existing entertainment center, or what ever you are using. Build something to make it work. It's not about the looks, it's about the sound.

A LaScala is 23 3/4" wide.

BUGS! That's one thing I hate about audio these days. These new processors arn't pre-amps anymore, they are computers. I had to wait for the C1 to come out with the pro logic IIX update before buying it, because I didn't want to have to upload it. Now you need to have a lap top computer so it's easier to up load fixes and up dates for your audio gear. Why can't they test drive the software before selling it? I just bought a new cabinet drawing program for work that cost $12,000.00 and it too is buggy. Talk about being pissed off.

I also have a C1 and I like it alot. Have you checked out the new Halcro SSP100? It's designed to sound it's best with digital inputs. There is a review on it in the magazine, the absolute sound. WWW.theabsolutesound.com I havn't looked at their web site to see if you can read the artical on line, but here is a link to the magazine. The reviewer said, " It delievers the best digital sound I have heard from any controler, at any price. The price is $9,990.00 I think that it has some programable channels like the C1. I use two of those channels for front effect channels.

I exchanged a few emails with the guy about a year ago. I was, and still may be interested in his 200 Hz. horn with the BMS 2" driver. I think the pair will work well with the Klipschorn and University Classic. I would like to try them with the Classic with a 300 Hz crossover point.

I don't think that the new Altec 390 is a 300 Hz driver. I was told that the 390 is a 290 without the 2" snout. The 390 is more of a pancake version, and the crossover frequency should be 500 Hz and above. I hope that I'm worng, because if the 390 is anything like the 290 it will make a sweat midrange driver for you to use. A few years ago when I was talking to Bill at Great Plains Audio, he kept telling me that he was going to produce the 290 again. I would call him every few months and bug him about them. I had to find my six 290's on ebay and a couple at Jammin Jersey. Then I bought some new diaphragms from Bill. JW, I'm fine. I think the bigest reason that I havn't been around so much is that I'm finaly satisfied with the way my system sounds. I havn't had the urge to tweak anything. It's been four years now that I've been wanting a new theater room. I finally decided to build a new house and go for it. That is why I need two more networks from you. I am going to use seven Klipschorns and four LaScalas. Drop me an email sometime and let me know how you are. Q.

I have a spec. sheet on the 290-16K drivers that I am using. Frequency response 300 Hz to 7000 Hz Recommended crossover frequency 300 Hz or above Power handling capacity 100 watts Hello John, I would like you to build me two more networks for my Altec/JBL combo when you get the time one of these days. Q.

I ordered the 8 ohm versions, and I just measured the three of them with an ohm meter to make sure that's what I received. I get about a 4 ohm reading on them, so I think that I'm safe. I also measured the three tweeters that I'm already using and they also measure about 4 ohms. A 16 ohm diaphragm will measure about 11 ohms. Using an ohm meter is this way is an easy way to check them without having to take them apart.

Before, I just finished building the top and I was still experimenting with the network in that picture.

Aren't you using a 511B in your custom Khorn center channel? I use a 311-90 and it's a 300HZ horn. I try to most a picture.

I'm short on time,so I'll tell you more later. I have a RX-V2092 and a RX-V3000 which were mid priced receivers that retailed for about $1,600.00 each. In my younger sons bedroom is a RX-V620, entry level piece at about $250.00 to $350.00. I have one more Yamaha AV/receiver, now off to college with my other son. I bought it the same time I bought the RX-V620 . This other receiver was about $200.00 more then the RX-V620 making it a retail item for around $500.00. Once I tested the 3000 with frequency test tones and found what I thought was a bad channel, I measured the other three receivers. They too had a limited center channel. That's what led to the calls to Yamaha. I couldn't have 4 different receivers with the same problem, could I? I hope that their models with price tags over the $1,600.00 mid. level receiver will give the consumer what they expect.

I've been thinking of getting the Danley horn loaded sub, but this might be a good idea. I'm willing to try my Sunfire Signature sub as a dedicated center channel sub and buy two RT-12's to handle the rest. I have to check and see if the Sunfire has a speaker level input with a high pass filter to go to the center channel K-horn. I remember you saying how you liked using a center channel sub a few years ago. Be careful trying this with some of the popular receivers. Yamaha for one doesn't really send a full range signal to the center channel. I figured this out after installing a K-horn for my center and the bass was no better then the LaScala that I just replaced. I hooked up the right channel output to the center speaker and then the speaker came alive. Needless to say, I now use seperates.Yamaha really pissed me off. I kept changing speakers for better sound and it was their receivers. I called them and asked them why their manuals even give you a full range option for the center. Their answer was that they figure that no one uses a full range speaker as a center channel speaker.

Dean, You are right about the network, except the crossover point is still just below 400Hz. I wanted him to make it at 300Hz like the horn and driver, but he insisted that it had to be higher. Something about having to stay a whole octave above Fs. of the horn and driver to keep distortion low. That is why I don't believe in using the Altec 511B horn. It is designed to be crossed over at 500 Hz or above.

JC, I think I have the shematic around here somewhere. I hope so, because I want JW to make me another pair. I'm not sure if it will be of any use to you. The network is the AA, but it's modified to work with the Altec 290-16K driver and 2404H tweeter. The 290 worked with a stock AA, but the impedance was too far off. DJK kept telling me that I was nuts to think that I could just switch drivers & he was right. That's why everything was shipped to JW. Like I said before, the matched network makes a world of difference.

It will work in the K- horns, and sound better then the K-77. It will sound even better with a network designed for it. When I was experimenting with many different midrange horns and drivers I used the ALK network and some Klipsch stock networks. I narrowed it down to the driver, horn and tweeter that I thought sounded the best. Then I sent the drivers and horns off to John Warren ( a Forum member) who has the right testing and measuring equipment to design a network for the components that I chose. I was floored with the difference in the sound that the network made. My midrange driver and horn sounded so much better then the stock Klipschorn stuff, and I thought the sound couldn't get any better. Then when I got the new networks the sound was again, much improved. John found a nasty peak or two in the horn and used notch filters to correct them. John now sells a tweeter network add-on for the 2404H tweeter. In my custom networks he provided 3 different settings for the JBL tweeter. I can change the output in 1db increments. I can't say if it will work in your Cornwall or not.

I may not know unless I take them apart. I think the guy that I spoke to was old school. He told me alot more then I wanted to know. Twenty years ago we did this, ten years ago we did that, today they are the same. He must have talked about every part that is in the tweeter and why things changed. Then I had to hear about their new designs and why things are changing now. Later in the day I called the parts department and was also told that they use the same diaphragm.

I just spoke to John with JBL tech. support and he said that the 2404H and the 2404H-1 both use the same diaphragm. The diaphragm # is D16R-2405. His number (818) 895-8157.

If that is true, I may end up ordering two 2402 diaphragms so I don't have to mess with the networks again. On the other hand, smoother sounds good. I was told that the parts were the same, I have to call them.

Thanks Marvel, The new 2404H tweeters are called 2404H-1, not the letter I like I posted above. I got them at Performance Audio www.performanceaudio.com ask for Zach. The price was $250.00 each. I first tried to buy them from a local dealer, but they wouldn't answer my emails.

I used to be able to right click on an avator photo and open it to view a larger image. I just tried it and I can't do it anymore. I don't know if it is my computer, or the new Klipsch Forum acting up.

No Way. Right click on my avator and open it. That's a picture of my center channel speaker. It's a Klipschorn bass horn on it's side with an Altec 290-16K 300hz. midrange driver and an Altec 311-90 300hz. midrange horn and the 2404-H tweeter. I use a custom designed network to connect these drivers. I replaced the top hats of my other Klipschorns with these components. I wouldn't use anything but a 300Hz or below midrange horn and driver with a Klipschorn. The bass horn drops off fast over 300Hz. I'll get back with you tonight, when I get home, on where I bought the tweeters. I forgot their name. I payed about $250.00 each and I bought them because JBL just stopped making them. They are going to continue making them untill they run out of parts. JBL is calling the tweeter 2404-H with the letter I after the H. I'll conferm that also. They added another letter because they no longer have the rubber magnet cover, so they can't call it the same thing. Internally, it's the same driver. I actually got their last 2404-H tweeter and two of the 2404H-I tweeters.

I too never thought too much about tweeter sounds untill I heard the 2404-H tweeter. The difference is like drinking regular water as compared to drinking sparkling water. Or maybe most of you would understand it better if I would say that the difference is like drinking flat beer as compared to opening a fresh bottle.

I now think that the 2404-H tweeter needs 1 to 1.5db attenuation in my network/speaker. I didn't think so before, but I wasn't using (so called) high end electronics when I began using this tweeter. With a Yamaha RX-V3000 receiver the tweeter seemed just right. Then I added McIntosh amps and used the RX-V3000 as a pre-amp. Bass and midrange sound improved the most and the tweeter setting was now questionable. I now use a Parasound Halo C1 processor and the sound changed again. The sound once again improved, but now the tweeter is a little hot. I keep the treble controls set below the flat setting to compensate for this. I'm about ready to insert a 1db L-pad into the tweeter networks. While at my sons college graduation last week I noticed that the school auditorium that I was in was using the 2404-H tweeters in their speaker arrays. See, I always bring my binoculars to these places so I can check out the speakers. It helps me from becoming too bored. I nudged my wife while attempting to hand her the binoculars and saying, "LOOK, they are using my tweeters." That just resulted in a punch to the ribs. I did buy 3 more of these tweeters a few weeks ago. What did I just say? Your up stream electronics will also make a difference in the sound that you hear, and this may result in having to do a little tweaking to get things sounding the way that you like.

It's a room for a Klipschorn home theater with the Danley DTS sub. You can build false corners for the Klipschorns and one behind the screen will work. Shorten one wall so your room isn't square, maybe 27' x 30'.