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Q-Man

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Everything posted by Q-Man

  1. Wow is right, I can't believe that it has been two years since this was posted and I'm still listening to the same center channel speaker. That's a record for me. I was never happy with the center channel sound, and I made quite a few speaker changes there. That is one of the reasons that led to this mod. The other reason is that I wanted to use the same speakers for all the channels. I also found out that not all AV/receivers and processors are not created equal. For a year now I have been using a Parasound Halo C1 processor and it does more for the center channel sound then anything that I used in the past. I run the mains and the center channel full range and I also send the low bass from those channels to the subwoofer. I prefer the sound this way, and I tried a lot of other settings. Right after installing the Klipschorn center channel speaker I ran some frequency test tones through it and the mains so I could measure the difference between them. The center measures real close to the mains and actually has about 2db more output from 45Hz. down then the mains do. I must have done something right. I'm really pleased with the sound now. No the TV doesn't rattle. The clear plastic protective screen cover vibrates at higher volume levels, but it always did. You can't hear it from my sitting position, if I could I would have taken the protective cover off by now. The three front Klipschorn false corners are rock solid and the TV doesn't come into contect with them.
  2. I have McIntosh amps, and a Parasound Halo C1 processor and they have balanced connections. I havn't tried the balanced outputs on the processor yet, because the guys on the Parasound forum claim that all they get is a 6db gain and that it is too much for the ones with efficient speakers. I guess I should try it one day and see what I think.
  3. The only thing that wears out on Klipschorns and LaScalas is the network (crossover). You can rebuild your existing crossover with new parts, or order any of the new crossovers that some of the members offer. They will all improve the sound or should I say bring the speaker back to spec. There is no magic crossover the improvement in sound comes from the new parts and mainly new caps. Everyone should rebuild or replace their 15 plus year old crossovers. Then you will hear the Klipschorn how it used to sound before age came into play. After that there are many mods you can do, if you want to play around and see what sounds best to you. Also look at the wires, some of the old copper Monster Cable turns green with oxidation and should be replaced.
  4. Someone has updated those speakers,maybe in the late 70's or early 80's. It looks like they have the original 500Hz. wood midrange horn and that might be all that is stock. The AK network and the mud K-55M driver are updates. You need to see what tweeters and woofers are in them. I bet the tweeter was also changed. If you keep them there are a few things you should change. The woofer door has also been updated, or you guys have the year wrong. I don't know the date codes, but the only thing right with these speakers is the wood horn, ( if these speakers are from the early 60's).
  5. huh? I ment to post this in the topic,"What is the best tweeter" I also thought that I deleated this????????? Since I have your attention, I never should have sold you the 2 JBL tweeters. I just bought 3 more new ones. I had to get two 2404H-1's and one 2404H, because they stopped making the 2404H. The 2404H-1's are the same, but are being assembled from all the left over parts from their parts department.
  6. I may have waited too long to buy three more 2404H tweeters. I just ordered them from Performance Audio for $265.00 each. The order came back saying that they would ship the 2404H-1 tweeters. I canceled the order. Then Performance Audio sent me an email saying that the 2404H-1 tweeters are the same as the 2404H tweeters. Before I believe that I have to find a spec. sheet on the new 2404H-1 tweeters.
  7. I may have waited too long to buy more 2404H tweeters. I just tried to order three more of them and the order showed three 2404H-1 tweeters for $265.00 each. Performance Audio sent me an email saying that the new 2404H-1 tweeters are the same as the 2404H. Before I believe that, I need find a spec. sheet on the 2404 h-1's.
  8. Darn, I need 3 more 2404H tweeters. I better order them now.
  9. It would be a big mistake to change a B style Klipschorn into the C style. To me the B style always had sex appeal. It's a nice design. Look at the new LaScala, it's now a sexy looking speaker too. I understand the LaScala change, but I don't understand why Klipsch took it away from the Klipschorn. Here I thought that Klipsch took what worked for the K-Horn and put it into the LaScala. After reading this topic I went to look at the pictures of the new Klipschorn, and sure enought you guys are right. I can't believe Klipsch did that. I even copied the B style look when I built the rounded top hats for the Altec horns. You can lower the tweeters without changing the look. Years ago, before the Forum existed, some people would reverse the tweeter and 400 horn. My tweeters are mounted below my midrange.
  10. This same topic was discussed a couple of years ago. To me the Klipsch sound is the Klipschorn, I like bass horns and the Klipschorn is a rather good one. Paul could do wonders with low priced drivers and horns. Paul himself said that the Klipschorn was a tweakers dream. No matter what you do with the top hat, it's still a Klipschorn, because of the bass horn. I have no interest in any of the other Klipsch speakers. Modding is fun and interesting, and you can learn alot by doing it. I would say that a lot of the mods that I have done wern't worth keeping, but they led to better things. Some people can sit and listen to music, not me. I seem to fill up with nervous energy and start thinking of ways to make the sound more real.
  11. Rob, I wish you the strength to help you get through the trying days a head of you. I havn't had to experience the loss of a parent yet, but I fear that my time is just around the corner. I'll get back to you on your other post. I'm sorry to say that we did Hi-Jack this one. rmloaz, Any luck selling the subs?
  12. Bob is right! That is why I blew the driver in mine. In my room the sub can keep up to about 94 db to 98 db. That is the level I call normal listening for me at my listening position. When I'm into the music I will push it to 104 to 106 db. When I do that I have to turn the sub down, because it will bottom out at those levels. So when I keep turning the Klipschorns up past 94 db I'm also turning down the sub volume at the same time. You might not have this problem in a smaller room. My room is 17' x 50' and I have 6 Klipschorns and 4 LaScalas. I use McIntosh amps, so I also have an idea of how much power I am feeding the speakers. When I push the volume to 104 db the meters on the amps read about a steady 20 watts, with peaks up to 200 watts per channel. That is why I said that I think I found another sub that I want to try. That is the Danley DTS-20 horn loaded sub. The SVS forum had a review with a pair of Klipschorns and the Sunfire Signature, Velodyne HGS-18, and an Ultra pair. I think the HGS-18 came close to keepimg up with the Klipschorns, but none of them could. Maybe the review is still on their website. It was a good review, check and see if it is still on the site. I read it years ago.
  13. Here is a design that I have been playing around with.
  14. The Signature has worked well for me with my Klipschorns, I've had it for about six years now. I only blew the driver once, and I'm told by Sunfire that it is very rare to fry one. When they replaced the driver they also updated the amp. for me, because mind didn't have the anti-clipping circuit in it. I wouldn't recommend using it much above 60 Hz. It's more of a bottom feeder and doesn't like to come up for air. The sound is good, or I would have replaced it by now. I almost bought another to stack on top of it or place next to it, but I finally found another sub that I want to try.
  15. Since I was the one who posted about Mike' 511B's I have to say that I like the Cobreflex over the 511's and K-400. So did all the people that I A/B ed the horns for. I didn't trust my own ears or opinion back then. I kept one room set up to A/B horns and drivers for over a year. Everytime someone different came over I would say, "Come in here for a minute." You know the rest of the story.
  16. I have the polarity reversed on my Altec midrange drivers. I get another 1 to 3 db out of them from 350 to 500 hz. that way. That is where the Klipschorn is weak. I tried this with every driver that I experimented with and I think they all sounded better this way.
  17. $3,000.00 unpowered, $4,600.00 powered. Only one user control. Push a button in for a low pass filter (crossover) You have to tell them the crossover point that you want and they set it before they ship to you. Push the button again and it can be set for another low pass filter point or wide open. You can not change the crossover points yourself. I was thinking of setting one at 45 to 50 Hz, and the other position wide open. Using it wide open will let you set the crossover point in your receiver or A/V processor. Like I said you have very limited control over the powered version.
  18. I called Danley again. The B&O amp wasn't designed for the DTS-20, but they say that it's a good one. For a powered sub you have very limited control over it.
  19. I called Danley and they quoated me prices direct. You can buy direct as long as there is no dealer in your area. Even if there is a dealer in your area there is a good chance they won't have a showroom, so they will work with you. I called to find out more about the powered version. A tech. that I talked to recommended buying the powered version over the non-powered. The amp they use is designed for the sub.They have an 800 watt DSP amp. He also suggested that you don't mess with the DSP settings, leave them at the factory settings. He said that they are very complicated to set up. I need to find out more. I'm also going to email soundbroker to see what he knows, and see what he can offer.
  20. The 3 amps are about 50 pounds each and I can still slide the rack in and out.
  21. I tried about 8 different brands of wheels (cacters). I didn't like any of them, they have too much play in them which results in rocking. I ended up mounting furniture sliders on the bottom of the rack. Much more stabe.
  22. Looking good. 4 woofer cutouts per side? Your not fooling around. I have read about some infinite baffle designs, and they do seam to dig deep and produce some high sound presure levels. My son actually came up with an idea about cutting some holes into the face of my false corners and putting in an 18" woofer in each one of them. Maybe I have to think about that idea some more. The false corners are 3-1/2' from the wall and have a sealed top on them to the back and side wall. They are 6-1/2' wide and about 5' high.They have a double 3/4" plywood face and top with 2x6" framing on the inside. That relates to a huge speaker box size. All I have to do is close off the back, and seal them up. I can now pull the TV out of it's hole and crawl around inside of them. Maybe with a little help from some of you subwoofer nuts I can figure out the correct volume for the chosen speakers and give it a try. It is a shame not to make use of all that dead space.
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